All things HID here!!!
#1841
BAMF Club
Either the Evo-X (which is a direct replacement for the factory HID projector) or Mini D2S (which is a threaded shaft bolt in projector for halogen lamps)
You have to do a projector retrofit in order to run HIDs. Just putting in HID bulbs causes light to scatter everywhere and horrible glare to other drivers.
You have to do a projector retrofit in order to run HIDs. Just putting in HID bulbs causes light to scatter everywhere and horrible glare to other drivers.
#1843
??? Not sure I understand "we do" as a response... what's with the screw driver covered in (what appears to be silicone?
anyway Geology are you looking to do a retrofit or get new housings? You don't want to run HID's in your 2010, as that's not a housing with a good design for HID at all. Even LEDs have a tough time with the high beams (lows look great). So doing either a retrofit with projectors or buying an aftermarket housing is the way to go.
As for fog lamps, you can either go with Morimoto fog lamps, which have a built in LED (if it ever fails you have to replace the entire housnig) or get yourself a new set of OEM fogs and throw either HID or LED in there (i'd recommend LED though in fogs of course)
anyway Geology are you looking to do a retrofit or get new housings? You don't want to run HID's in your 2010, as that's not a housing with a good design for HID at all. Even LEDs have a tough time with the high beams (lows look great). So doing either a retrofit with projectors or buying an aftermarket housing is the way to go.
As for fog lamps, you can either go with Morimoto fog lamps, which have a built in LED (if it ever fails you have to replace the entire housnig) or get yourself a new set of OEM fogs and throw either HID or LED in there (i'd recommend LED though in fogs of course)
#1844
Need help! I have a 2014 F150 FX4 that I bought used. It had been in an accident previously and to save money the guy I bought it from installed aftermarket halogen headlight assembly on both sides. I'm about 95% sure he said it previously had HID lights from factory (as opposed to factory halogen) prior to the accident. I would like to go back to the HID headlight assembly.
My question is, is there a way to tell if my truck is already wired for HID headlights? Can I install a set of OEM HID headlights without using the conversion kit wiring harness with the relays?
My question is, is there a way to tell if my truck is already wired for HID headlights? Can I install a set of OEM HID headlights without using the conversion kit wiring harness with the relays?
#1845
Administrator
Thread Starter
Need help! I have a 2014 F150 FX4 that I bought used. It had been in an accident previously and to save money the guy I bought it from installed aftermarket halogen headlight assembly on both sides. I'm about 95% sure he said it previously had HID lights from factory (as opposed to factory halogen) prior to the accident. I would like to go back to the HID headlight assembly.
My question is, is there a way to tell if my truck is already wired for HID headlights? Can I install a set of OEM HID headlights without using the conversion kit wiring harness with the relays?
My question is, is there a way to tell if my truck is already wired for HID headlights? Can I install a set of OEM HID headlights without using the conversion kit wiring harness with the relays?
#1846
Senior Member
#1847
So I have a question for you HID gurus. I have a 2016 f150 morimoto mini retro fit and for some reason one headlight will just turn off and it’s not consistent to which one will turn off. Some times it’s the driver side sometimes it’s the passenger side. I’ll have to turn them off and then back on and then it will happen again. I have only had these for less then a week and got them done somewhere. Any ideas as to why it happens?
#1848
So I have a question for you HID gurus. I have a 2016 f150 morimoto mini retro fit and for some reason one headlight will just turn off and it’s not consistent to which one will turn off. Some times it’s the driver side sometimes it’s the passenger side. I’ll have to turn them off and then back on and then it will happen again. I have only had these for less then a week and got them done somewhere. Any ideas as to why it happens?
Turning them off resets the ballast, allowing it to attempt the start-up process all over again when turned back on.
This is what happens when the lamps are at the end of their life. Or, if you have cheap chinese ballasts that are not providing the required voltage it will cause the arc to fail.
If the problem does not stem from either of the first two scenarios, depending on your set-up you could have a bad igniter. D1 & D3 lamps are built onto the igniter at the factory. D2 & D4 lamps must plug into an igniter. All of these aftermarket igniters have a much higher failure rate.
Finally, you will want to confirm your lamps/ballasts are matched properly. Although unlikely, it could happen if the connectors were modified. D1 & D2 lamps require an 85V output ballast. If they are powered by a D3 or D4 ballast they are only receiving 42V. They may ignite and arc for a few minutes until they warm up and exceed the 42V provided and then shut off. Again, this is highly unlikely but doesn't hurt to check.
The easiest fix will probably be to just call the company, or guy, you bought the lights from and explain what the problem is to them. If they can't help you, return them.
#1850
The hotter the lamp gets, the higher the voltage it needs. When the voltage required to sustain the arc-discharge in the lamp exceeds the voltage provided by the ballast, the arc fails and the lamp goes out.
Turning them off resets the ballast, allowing it to attempt the start-up process all over again when turned back on.
This is what happens when the lamps are at the end of their life. Or, if you have cheap chinese ballasts that are not providing the required voltage it will cause the arc to fail.
If the problem does not stem from either of the first two scenarios, depending on your set-up you could have a bad igniter. D1 & D3 lamps are built onto the igniter at the factory. D2 & D4 lamps must plug into an igniter. All of these aftermarket igniters have a much higher failure rate.
Finally, you will want to confirm your lamps/ballasts are matched properly. Although unlikely, it could happen if the connectors were modified. D1 & D2 lamps require an 85V output ballast. If they are powered by a D3 or D4 ballast they are only receiving 42V. They may ignite and arc for a few minutes until they warm up and exceed the 42V provided and then shut off. Again, this is highly unlikely but doesn't hurt to check.
The easiest fix will probably be to just call the company, or guy, you bought the lights from and explain what the problem is to them. If they can't help you, return them.
Turning them off resets the ballast, allowing it to attempt the start-up process all over again when turned back on.
This is what happens when the lamps are at the end of their life. Or, if you have cheap chinese ballasts that are not providing the required voltage it will cause the arc to fail.
If the problem does not stem from either of the first two scenarios, depending on your set-up you could have a bad igniter. D1 & D3 lamps are built onto the igniter at the factory. D2 & D4 lamps must plug into an igniter. All of these aftermarket igniters have a much higher failure rate.
Finally, you will want to confirm your lamps/ballasts are matched properly. Although unlikely, it could happen if the connectors were modified. D1 & D2 lamps require an 85V output ballast. If they are powered by a D3 or D4 ballast they are only receiving 42V. They may ignite and arc for a few minutes until they warm up and exceed the 42V provided and then shut off. Again, this is highly unlikely but doesn't hurt to check.
The easiest fix will probably be to just call the company, or guy, you bought the lights from and explain what the problem is to them. If they can't help you, return them.