Wisdom before buying
#11
Senior Member
If you plan on towing a significant trailer, get a 3.5 with the 3.73 axle. All the magic math and charts in the world won't change the fact that the best towing experience is going to come with the biggest engine and lowest gears. Yes it's going to cost you a little gas mileage, but considering that you're about to spend $75,000 on toys, so what. Get the truck that is BEST suited for the job, not a compromise in an attempt to save a little at the pump. To get what you really want/need, you're probably going to have to order it. I've ordered two over the years and it was worth the wait.
Last edited by PerryB; 07-18-2017 at 08:12 PM.
#12
Senior Member
My 1.5 cents.
1. Make sure you get the larger gas tank if you do plan to tow longer than 5 hours or so. We found stopping for pee break is easy; finding a gas station that can accommodate that trailer is not always easy, especially when tank gets real low. Assume 8mpg; do the math.
2. You will need to consider effects of a passing tractor trailer. I have found if I go 70mph they slide past me. That yields 8mpg, at best. If I go a more comfortable 62mph or so, I can get up to 9mpg or slightly better but the truck passing at 72mph will truly suck you over. Pucker factor increases as your speed goes down. That 31ft trailer is one big sail!
3. With #2 in mind, the sway needs to be controlled best you can. An F2 or 350 will handle sway MUCH better. I upgraded tires to more plies (K02) and added 5100 shocks. Next is the brake upgrade. All of this is to get my F150 to act more like an F250 (yet I don't get any payload increase). If I was not underwater with my F150, I would have already traded up.
4. 3.5eco with 3.55 is plenty PULLING power; no shortage there.
5. Heavy duty tow package is required for towing your 31ft trailer. Heavy duty payload would be nice, and I strongly encourage you to consider it.
6. If you use truck to get milk, take kids to soccer etc. then the F150 can be converted into a pseudo substitute for an F250. IMHO a 31ft tow behind trailer is perhaps over the limit for what the F150 was designed for.
1. Make sure you get the larger gas tank if you do plan to tow longer than 5 hours or so. We found stopping for pee break is easy; finding a gas station that can accommodate that trailer is not always easy, especially when tank gets real low. Assume 8mpg; do the math.
2. You will need to consider effects of a passing tractor trailer. I have found if I go 70mph they slide past me. That yields 8mpg, at best. If I go a more comfortable 62mph or so, I can get up to 9mpg or slightly better but the truck passing at 72mph will truly suck you over. Pucker factor increases as your speed goes down. That 31ft trailer is one big sail!
3. With #2 in mind, the sway needs to be controlled best you can. An F2 or 350 will handle sway MUCH better. I upgraded tires to more plies (K02) and added 5100 shocks. Next is the brake upgrade. All of this is to get my F150 to act more like an F250 (yet I don't get any payload increase). If I was not underwater with my F150, I would have already traded up.
4. 3.5eco with 3.55 is plenty PULLING power; no shortage there.
5. Heavy duty tow package is required for towing your 31ft trailer. Heavy duty payload would be nice, and I strongly encourage you to consider it.
6. If you use truck to get milk, take kids to soccer etc. then the F150 can be converted into a pseudo substitute for an F250. IMHO a 31ft tow behind trailer is perhaps over the limit for what the F150 was designed for.
In the market for 2017 F150. Went to another dealer today to learn more about options for towing. Have an eye on a TT that's about 31 feet and is listed as weighing 6,200 or another at 5,600. I realize that number isn't accurate but that's the best I can do at this point. So I looked at 3 options to handle this trailer.
1. 2.7 XLT Supercrew, no Tow package, 3.31 ratio, payload 1,649 lbs, class 4 hitch. (dealer said this truck couldn't handle the TTs cause of the 3.31)
2. Same as above but with Tow package (dealer said it couldn't handle it)
3. 2.7 XL, with tow package, 3.55 ratio, payload of 1,535 lbs, class 4 hitch (dealer said this was the best option cause of the 3.55. Also costs 8K more than option 1)
I realize there are several variables in this such as WDH and where the payload is placed. But if all variables are correct, which truck, if any, could handle one of those TT's I'm looking at? This is a big expenditure for me and I don't want to mess up buying a truck that can't handle the TT and I'd appreciate any wisdom.
Thanks.
1. 2.7 XLT Supercrew, no Tow package, 3.31 ratio, payload 1,649 lbs, class 4 hitch. (dealer said this truck couldn't handle the TTs cause of the 3.31)
2. Same as above but with Tow package (dealer said it couldn't handle it)
3. 2.7 XL, with tow package, 3.55 ratio, payload of 1,535 lbs, class 4 hitch (dealer said this was the best option cause of the 3.55. Also costs 8K more than option 1)
I realize there are several variables in this such as WDH and where the payload is placed. But if all variables are correct, which truck, if any, could handle one of those TT's I'm looking at? This is a big expenditure for me and I don't want to mess up buying a truck that can't handle the TT and I'd appreciate any wisdom.
Thanks.
#13
Senior Member
Get the most payload capacity you can. Realize payload capacity is determined at the factory. Every dealer option, and every extra you install later comes out of this payload. So whatever is on that sticker, your actual will probably be less. The higher number you start with, the better!
In the example of my truck, I added Ford bed side steps (both sides), spray in bed liner, and an ARE camper top.
Add to that the weight of the driver, any passengers you might take with you on a camping outing, all the gear you are likely going to put in the truck bed, receiver hitch, and tongue weight.
You can run out of payload on that 1535 pound payload truck pretty quickly. Just the 13% of the likely true trailer weight of 7,500 pounds means a tongue weight of 975 pounds. You will need a WDH, so that means additional weight for the WDH gear. If you install a camper top on your bed, thats another 200 pounds. Side steps, say 40 pounds each, so another 80 pounds. Spray in liner, another 60 pounds. Lets say the WDH set up weighs 100 pounds. That leaves you 100 pounds for driver, passenger(s), dog, and all gear you have in the truck.......
In my case, my payload is only 1450 pounds. That really puts a crimp into trailer size. The tow rating of 9,800 pounds on my truck is unobtainium. Obviously I am not pulling a 31 foot trailer.
And personally, I would never, ever, buy a truck without factory tow package. In your case, heavy duty tow package is a must, and maybe an F250...
Pretty clear you can forget some of those aftermarket add-ons like camper top (pretty handy IMHO), side steps (less critical), and so on.
In the example of my truck, I added Ford bed side steps (both sides), spray in bed liner, and an ARE camper top.
Add to that the weight of the driver, any passengers you might take with you on a camping outing, all the gear you are likely going to put in the truck bed, receiver hitch, and tongue weight.
You can run out of payload on that 1535 pound payload truck pretty quickly. Just the 13% of the likely true trailer weight of 7,500 pounds means a tongue weight of 975 pounds. You will need a WDH, so that means additional weight for the WDH gear. If you install a camper top on your bed, thats another 200 pounds. Side steps, say 40 pounds each, so another 80 pounds. Spray in liner, another 60 pounds. Lets say the WDH set up weighs 100 pounds. That leaves you 100 pounds for driver, passenger(s), dog, and all gear you have in the truck.......
In my case, my payload is only 1450 pounds. That really puts a crimp into trailer size. The tow rating of 9,800 pounds on my truck is unobtainium. Obviously I am not pulling a 31 foot trailer.
And personally, I would never, ever, buy a truck without factory tow package. In your case, heavy duty tow package is a must, and maybe an F250...
Pretty clear you can forget some of those aftermarket add-ons like camper top (pretty handy IMHO), side steps (less critical), and so on.
Last edited by thrifty biil; 07-18-2017 at 10:00 PM.
#14
2017 Max tow requires the 3.5L EcoBoost engine. HDPP requires either 3.5L EcoBoost or 5.0L V8 engine. Neither is available with the little 2.7L EcoBoost engine.
So if you plan to tow a TT with a 2.7L engine without being overloaded, its going to be a very small lightweight TT.
So if you plan to tow a TT with a 2.7L engine without being overloaded, its going to be a very small lightweight TT.
You're right I forgot about that.
Also with the new 10 SP transmission, rear end gearing is no longer that big of a deal. 3.31, 3.55 gears now can pull just as easy as 3.73 and 4.10 do to the added gears in the 10 SP. The 3.5 EB tows just as easy with 3.15 and the 6SP. It's a torque monster.
#15
Senior Member
The 10 speed transmission that comes with the 3.5 EB for '17 has changed the game.
My '13 3.5 EB 3.55 axle 6 speed is rated at 15,300 GCWR and 9,800 max trailer.
A '17 3.5 EB 3.15 axle 10 speed is rated at 15,800 GCWR and 10,700 max trailer.
A '17 3.5 EB 3.55 axle 10 speed is rated at 17,000 GCWR and 11,900 max trailer.
The 10 speed is supposed to be available with the 2.7 for the '18 model year. That will increase towing capability, but not payload.
My '13 3.5 EB 3.55 axle 6 speed is rated at 15,300 GCWR and 9,800 max trailer.
A '17 3.5 EB 3.15 axle 10 speed is rated at 15,800 GCWR and 10,700 max trailer.
A '17 3.5 EB 3.55 axle 10 speed is rated at 17,000 GCWR and 11,900 max trailer.
The 10 speed is supposed to be available with the 2.7 for the '18 model year. That will increase towing capability, but not payload.
#16
Wow, didn't realize there was that much of a difference. Good find!
#17
Senior Member
Same here, I didn't realize the new 1st gear was so low.
-- I still think that's an absurd number of gears.
-- I still think that's an absurd number of gears.
#18
If you are looking for a 4x2 XL, that can be had with the 2.7 with the 3.73 gears and 2.7 payload package. It's rated for 8k lbs towing. I don't know if the hitch is still rated for 1k plus tongue weight (w/ WDH) because I haven't seen one on a lot.
As mentioned, shop using the GVWR of the trailers. Most should not buy a trailer over 7-8k GVWR for a half ton. Some do it but if you are new to travel trailers, that is putting you near your max. A 7k trailer will max out your hitch.
I think the 2.7 is a great option with the 2.7 Payload Package, but I like higher trim levels. For you it should work with a quality hitch. Good luck.
As mentioned, shop using the GVWR of the trailers. Most should not buy a trailer over 7-8k GVWR for a half ton. Some do it but if you are new to travel trailers, that is putting you near your max. A 7k trailer will max out your hitch.
I think the 2.7 is a great option with the 2.7 Payload Package, but I like higher trim levels. For you it should work with a quality hitch. Good luck.