dogg25

In the market for 2017 F150. Went to another dealer today to learn more about options for towing. Have an eye on a TT that's about 31 feet and is listed as weighing 6,200 or another at 5,600. I realize that number isn't accurate but that's the best I can do at this point. So I looked at 3 options to handle this trailer.

1. 2.7 XLT Supercrew, no Tow package, 3.31 ratio, payload 1,649 lbs, class 4 hitch. (dealer said this truck couldn't handle the TTs cause of the 3.31)

2. Same as above but with Tow package (dealer said it couldn't handle it)

3. 2.7 XL, with tow package, 3.55 ratio, payload of 1,535 lbs, class 4 hitch (dealer said this was the best option cause of the 3.55. Also costs 8K more than option 1)

I realize there are several variables in this such as WDH and where the payload is placed. But if all variables are correct, which truck, if any, could handle one of those TT's I'm looking at? This is a big expenditure for me and I don't want to mess up buying a truck that can't handle the TT and I'd appreciate any wisdom.

Thanks.

smokeywren

Hi, Dogg, and WELCOME! to our campfire.



What king of "weighing" is that? Dry weight or GVWR or something else.





Take a deep breath. Slow down. Don't settle for something in stock. Order the F-150 with just exactly the options and specs you want and are willing to pay for. $8,000 means a lot of options and trim that the other truck didn't have. Do you want those options and trim?


If not, surf to www.ford.com and build and price your F-150 just exactly the way you want it. Print out the results and give it to any dealer and them that's the truck you want. If they don't have it in stock, then they can locate it and do a dealer trade to get it. Or if "your" truck is not in captivity, then have the dealer order "your" truck for you. You'll be glad you did.

dogg25

Dry weight off the trailer label. I know it isn't accurate. I'm just trying to figure out those three configurations. I'm a frugal minimalist. I'd still manually roll up the window if it would save me money so the options aren't needed for me.

With those 3 options, they all have the same 2.7 engine. Option 3 is a 4x4 with a lower payload but the 3.55 ratio. Is the 3.55 the only difference between being able to pull that trailer? If option one would be fine pulling it, I'd buy that truck without further thought.

I would build a truck as you suggested but I can't determine which options are needed beyond the standard equipment and that last dealer confused me with the 3.55 requirement.

acdii

Never base your tow vehicle off the base weight. Always base it off the GVWR, which it the maximum weight the trailer can be. Take the 13% tongue weight from that and get a truck with enough payload to handle that plus your family and gear.

As for towing with 3.31, the dealer is full of S***. I towed a 6300# trailer up I70 outside of Denver up and over all the way to Utah with an F150 EB with 3.15 gears. It was hard on the transmission because it did not have a tow package, but any tow package equipped truck will have gears short enough to tow with.

Never ever rely on a salesguy to sell you the correct tow vehicle.


Sounds like you need, if you are stuck on the 2.7, an XLT model with Max tow as the bare minimum. If you can order, then go for the HDPP and be done with it.

smokeywren

Here is the minimum F-150 configuration I would buy to drag that trailer that will probably gross about 7,000 pounds:

2017 Ford F-150 XL SuperCab,
6-1/2' Box,
3.5L V6 EcoBoost® with Auto Start/Stop Engine, ElectronicTen-Speed Automatic Transmission with Tow/Haul and Sport Mode,

4X2,
$895 Trailer TowPackage
$90 ManualTelescoping/Manual Glass/Manual-Folding Trailer Tow Mirrors with Black SkullCaps
$470 3.55 Electronic Locking Axle Ratio
$275 integrated Trailer Brake Controller (ITBC)
$0 Cloth 40/20/40 Front Seats

Base MSRP $33,790
$1,730 Total of Options
$1,295 Destination Charges
$36,815



The 3.5L EcoBoost engine increases both GCWR and GVWR to enough to handle a 7,000-pound TT without overloading the tow vehicle.


The Trailer Towing pkg is required for any TT more than 5,000 pounds.

The trailer tow mirrors are required for safely towing any trailer wider and higher than your tailgate.

The 3.55 electronic locking rear axle is overkill when combined with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine, but you seemed to want it, so I included it.

The ITBC is the best on the market, and it's a bargain when included as a factory option.

Cloth seats, same as the seats in an XLT, are a free option. I prefer them to the standard work-truck vinyl seats in the XL. YMMV

smokeywren

2017 Max tow requires the 3.5L EcoBoost engine. HDPP requires either 3.5L EcoBoost or 5.0L V8 engine. Neither is available with the little 2.7L EcoBoost engine.


So if you plan to tow a TT with a 2.7L engine without being overloaded, its going to be a very small lightweight TT.

atwowheelguy

Be forewarned. My trailer brochure weight was 4600. Came out of the factory at 5025. Ready for camping at 6840.

With the 2.7, the standard rear axle for a 4x2 is 3.31. The 3.55 is only available with the 4x4 and only adds 0-100 lbs. of towing capacity because the 4x4 truck is heavier. There is no significant improvement in towing capacity without going to the 3.73. This towing guide is a measure of how much it can TOW.



Your limiter will likely be the payload of the truck. That's how much it can HAUL. Most truck & trailer combinations exceed the payload of the truck before they get to the tow rating. Look at the payload stickers on each truck.

An estimate of the payload required is:

Payload required = (Trailer GVWR x 0.13) + wt. of all occupants and cargo in the truck

You may well have to have a truck with the 2.7 Payload Package to be able to HAUL your tongue weight and other cargo and passengers. Check it out.



Also check the max weight the hitch receiver can handle. Figure 13% of the trailer GVWR as tongue weight. That would be a good estimate for my trailer.
7765 x 13% = 1009
Actual tongue weight = 1000
Hitch receiver max tongue weight = 1050

atwowheelguy

Is that 6200 wt. in a brochure or on a sticker on the trailer? 6200 brochure wt. will be 6600 on the weight sticker on the trailer and can weigh 8000 wet and loaded. That exceeds the tow rating of all the 2.7 trucks except with the 3.73 axle.

That 8000 lb. trailer x 13% = 1040 tongue weight.
If it's 15%, the tongue weight will be 1200 and likely more that the hitch receiver is rated for.
Even at 1040 tongue weight, that would leave 1649 - 1040 = 609 lbs. available for all occupants and cargo in the truck.

The 5600 brochure wt. trailer will be 6000 out of the factory and 7500 wet and loaded.
7500 x 0.13 = 975 tongue weight
1649 payload - 975 = 674 lbs. left for passengers and cargo.
It will need a transmission cooler and a trailer brake controller. "No tow package" is a big handicap.

dogg25

Thank you all for confirming my thoughts. It was the trip to the dealer that had me questioning my research, such as stating that a 3.55 was needed. I don't necessarily want to go that route as it seems to require the 4x4. I did think a tow package was needed.

Again, I truly appreciate wisdom and the time you took to explain the different options for me.

phenrichs

First, with TT you add 1000 lbs to dry weight immediately. This is for all the gear. Dry weight means exactly that. Completely empty. Some dry weights don't even include things like tv or microwave.

Second. I have a friend that has your option #3. 2.7 wiht 3.55. He pulls his camper, which is nearly the same as your description, and also hauls around his 69 Mustang with it and he loves it for both.

Get a good weight distribution hitch and you will have many enjoyable towing miles.