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What's the best way to upgrade the rear suspension for payload?

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Old 01-12-2018, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chimmike
these are half-ton light-duty frames. They are not built for the type of medium duty you guys want to do with them. They just aren't.
You want a half ton truck masquerading as a 3/4 ton?
Are you actually looking at the numbers? The OP's truck's payload is already 1600, which is more than 3/4 ton. The VC label shows GVWR 7200 lbs, which is nearly the GCWR of older F150s.


(phone app link)


I'm not saying he should overload it, but it's certainly a stout frame & truck.
Old 01-12-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by chimmike
I'm not sure why people think it's only suspension that is needed.

these are half-ton light-duty frames. They are not built for the type of medium duty you guys want to do with them. They just aren't.

You want a half ton truck masquerading as a 3/4 ton? Get a Titan XD.
Or an HDPP! It has more payload than a Titan XD and many diesel 3/4 ton trucks.
Old 01-12-2018, 08:36 PM
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Ok another question. What's the best weight distributing hitch out there I can use? Occasionally I'll tow my dad's 30ft camper which weighs around 7K pounds IIRC. My truck is rated to tow 9,300lbs, but I haven' attempted that much yet. 😆

Last edited by Michael Day; 01-12-2018 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Misspelled auto corrected words
Old 01-12-2018, 08:42 PM
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Equal-i-zer has a pretty good reputation, although a little pricey. Forget about Anderson. Poor weight distribution and a lousy friction/anti-sway design.
Old 01-12-2018, 08:54 PM
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Geez, I can't believe the most obvious hinderance hasn't been addressed. GAWR! The rear axle in the truck can only support so much weight before the axle bearings start to give, or worse the axle fails.

The axle is semi floating, which means the outer portion rests directly on the bearings, all that 2000 pounds of payload AND the weight of the truck is resting on one small section of axle. Stress it too much and SNAP, wheel goes tearing down the road while the *** end of your truck is tearing UP the road.




The reason others are suggesting a 3/4 ton for that kind of weight is because the rear axle is full floating, which means None of the weight of the payload or truck rests on the axles, but instead rest on the hub and axle housing itself. Those bearings, yes bearings as there are two, an inner and an outer, can carry a whole lot more weight than the single bearing in the axle housing. This is the main difference between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton. You can add bags, springs, bumpers, whatever you want, but they will do nothing to prevent extreme axle damage from happening.
Old 01-12-2018, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Geez, I can't believe the most obvious hinderance hasn't been addressed. GAWR! The rear axle in the truck can only support so much weight before the axle bearings start to give, or worse the axle fails.

The axle is semi floating, which means the outer portion rests directly on the bearings, all that 2000 pounds of payload AND the weight of the truck is resting on one small section of axle. Stress it too much and SNAP, wheel goes tearing down the road while the *** end of your truck is tearing UP the road.




The reason others are suggesting a 3/4 ton for that kind of weight is because the rear axle is full floating, which means None of the weight of the payload or truck rests on the axles, but instead rest on the hub and axle housing itself. Those bearings, yes bearings as there are two, an inner and an outer, can carry a whole lot more weight than the single bearing in the axle housing. This is the main difference between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton. You can add bags, springs, bumpers, whatever you want, but they will do nothing to prevent extreme axle damage from happening.
So you'e saying put a Super Duty rear end in my truck?🤣

I'm kidding.
Old 01-12-2018, 09:08 PM
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LOL Wouldn't be the first time! Pretty sure a Dana 60 will fit.
Old 01-12-2018, 09:56 PM
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Yeah, but the axle in the picture was either SEVERELY overloaded or suffered a lack of lubrication failure. Based on the discoloration, I'd say lack of lubrication. Going a few hundred over is NOT going to do that. As I carefully stated in my first post, I do not advocate intentionally overloading the truck, so you's all can save it for elsewhere. To the O.P. -- The general consensus seems to be a 150 can haul a lawnmower, a bicycle, and 5 or 6 bags of groceries. Anything more than that, you'll have to sell it and get a Superduty. Also, airbags will cause you to endanger human life. They'll also compromise the frame and cause decreased stability if used in conjunction with a WDH.

Last edited by PerryB; 01-12-2018 at 10:57 PM.
Old 01-13-2018, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Day
So you'e saying put a Super Duty rear end in my truck?🤣

I'm kidding.
The axle concerns may not be real depending on what it came with. I'm guessing the rear of your truck weighs about 2300 pounds. Even though your rear springs are rated for 3800 GVWR. The actual axle may be rated for more. If it is the standard 9.75", the rating is around 4500 pounds for the lightest version of this axle. So 2000 pounds in the bed would actually still be within what the axle was designed for if it's a 9.75. If it's an 8.8" I really don't know what they are rated at.
Old 01-13-2018, 01:31 AM
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Who needs a full floating axle? I routinely load 8,000 pounds on my semi-float axle... the one on the back of my tractor that is.

on edit: Those axle shafts are about 3" diameter

Last edited by Gladehound; 01-13-2018 at 02:19 PM. Reason: clarify how much beefier tractor axle is so that people don't think they can do this with F150
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