Weight of TT - DRY vs GVWR vs DRY HITCH
#41
Senior Member
If you're interested PM me with your email, I'd be happy to send it your way.
#42
Dry Hitch Weight doesn't count the LP tanks or battery. At 1200 pounds you are already well over the rated hitch limit when you add the LP Tanks, Battery and your Weight Distribution Hitch.
My $0.02, look for something with a dry hitch weight of no more than 850 lbs. which then gives you 370 pounds below your hitch rating to account for the additional weight of LP Tanks, Battery and WDH.
My $0.02, look for something with a dry hitch weight of no more than 850 lbs. which then gives you 370 pounds below your hitch rating to account for the additional weight of LP Tanks, Battery and WDH.
Those are WAY too much trailer for any 1/2 ton, no matter how much payload it has!!!!! Don't let anyone say otherwise.
At 36' you are just asking to be knocked around. Also consider that the empty weight alone is 2000+ pounds more than your truck.
The safe towing limit for the F150 IMO is no more than 30'. Mine is 28' and on the 2016 is border line(the 2014 handled better).
This falls into that old adage, just because it can, doesn't mean it should.
At 36' you are just asking to be knocked around. Also consider that the empty weight alone is 2000+ pounds more than your truck.
The safe towing limit for the F150 IMO is no more than 30'. Mine is 28' and on the 2016 is border line(the 2014 handled better).
This falls into that old adage, just because it can, doesn't mean it should.
Well we've established the limiting factor is of course the hitch itself rolling in at a max of 1,220 lbs WD.
Okay so -All the other numbers are OK. The limiting factor of course is the 1,220 lb max hitch weight.
The trailer needs to stay around 9,400 lbs loaded. That's do-able. That's about 600 lbs cargo in the trailer.
I'll need to run the numbers somehow in a calculator and figure out best way to load my gear in that trailer.
Okay so -All the other numbers are OK. The limiting factor of course is the 1,220 lb max hitch weight.
The trailer needs to stay around 9,400 lbs loaded. That's do-able. That's about 600 lbs cargo in the trailer.
I'll need to run the numbers somehow in a calculator and figure out best way to load my gear in that trailer.
Call me a Troll if you want, but Why did you bother to ask for advice if you don't want to hear what people are trying to tell you. Re-read the quotes from this thread. If you still think the F150 is up to the task and that the is your liming factor I am not sure how anyone can help you. Good luck, please don't pass me on the interstate and I hope I am not the unlucky one that purchases your F150 on a lease trade in.
Last edited by Jeff1024; 12-08-2017 at 03:13 PM.
#43
Grumpy Old Man
The easiest way is to use a tongue weight scale, like this one: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html
But if you don't want to invest in your own tongue weight scale, then you need two passes over a CAT scale.
1] First pass is with the trailer tied on but without the spring bars connected. Add the weights on the steer and drive axles to get gross vehicle weight (GVW) on the truck axles.
2] Second pass is without the trailer to get GTW of just the truck.
3] Subtract the GVW of the truck from the GVW with the trailer tied on to get hitch weight.
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Ricktwuhk (12-10-2017)
#44
I second that you need to weigh your tongue. Specs lie. There is no magic percentage for total trailer weight that you tongue will always be. There are lots of ways to weigh it. Some use a lever arm and a bathroom scale (good for a rough measure). My favorite is to use my 1300 pound hanging scale that I picked up from Northern tool for $50. And there are scales made just to weigh your tongue. I like being able to weigh it at home before I go to the scales so at least I know what that piece is before weighing the axles.
#45
That is a lot of trust in that Karabiner. That looks like a 320# load one. I was a certified tower climber, and these were the most important piece of climbing equipment we used.
I would suggest finding one like this http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Riggin...-5-9-16-Length that has a spring clip as will as the notched release, and is rated at 800 pounds.
What tractor is that, the loader has a pretty high break away on it to lift that much weight.
I would suggest finding one like this http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Riggin...-5-9-16-Length that has a spring clip as will as the notched release, and is rated at 800 pounds.
What tractor is that, the loader has a pretty high break away on it to lift that much weight.
#46
That is a lot of trust in that Karabiner. That looks like a 320# load one. I was a certified tower climber, and these were the most important piece of climbing equipment we used.
I would suggest finding one like this http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Riggin...-5-9-16-Length that has a spring clip as will as the notched release, and is rated at 800 pounds.
What tractor is that, the loader has a pretty high break away on it to lift that much weight.
I would suggest finding one like this http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Riggin...-5-9-16-Length that has a spring clip as will as the notched release, and is rated at 800 pounds.
What tractor is that, the loader has a pretty high break away on it to lift that much weight.
The tractor is a Kioti DS4510HS. Without the bucket on, it has roughly ~4K lift at ground level and ~3K at full height.
#47
Wow, that beats my Bota by a LONG shot! LOL Bet you would have skid marks if that did let go though!
#48
Senior Member
That tractor would make easy work for parking any trailer. That's quite the 2" receiver attachment! Very cool!
#49
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
But after all the calculating and estimating, you need to weigh the tongue to be certain you don't have an overloaded hitch.
The easiest way is to use a tongue weight scale, like this one: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html
But if you don't want to invest in your own tongue weight scale, then you need two passes over a CAT scale.
1] First pass is with the trailer tied on but without the spring bars connected. Add the weights on the steer and drive axles to get gross vehicle weight (GVW) on the truck axles.
2] Second pass is without the trailer to get GTW of just the truck.
3] Subtract the GVW of the truck from the GVW with the trailer tied on to get hitch weight.
The easiest way is to use a tongue weight scale, like this one: https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html
But if you don't want to invest in your own tongue weight scale, then you need two passes over a CAT scale.
1] First pass is with the trailer tied on but without the spring bars connected. Add the weights on the steer and drive axles to get gross vehicle weight (GVW) on the truck axles.
2] Second pass is without the trailer to get GTW of just the truck.
3] Subtract the GVW of the truck from the GVW with the trailer tied on to get hitch weight.
Dealer should (at least I'd hope!) have a scale on site.
I'd have no problem buying a scale but of course one can't beat free!