Weight of TT - DRY vs GVWR vs DRY HITCH
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-12% seems like a somewhat arbitrary amount. I realize the testing in the US is done at 10%. In Europe, 5-6% is normal, and they tow travel trailers with mid-size station wagons. But they drive slower with those trailers than people do here. Agree that a combo should be stable enough at 10-12% that any sway imposed by an outside force should naturally dissipate below the normal trailering speed of 65mph. However, with a vehicle on it's limits (Like the set up the OP is proposing and like when I towed my TT with my Jeep) additional tongue weight beyond the US standard of 10% can transfer additional weight from the trailer to the tow vehicle to be distributed across the front and rear of the tow vehicle with a WDH, making the entire rig less susceptible to initial movement due to wind. It effectively makes the tow vehicle heavier and the trailer lighter. I hear people talking about the bow wake from trucks all the time and at 18% TW pulling a 27 foot TT with a Jeep, I can't even feel a truck pass. As long as weight is distributed properly and all weight ratings are good, I can't think of any situation where more tongue weight wouldn't make a combination even more stable than the arbitrarily accepted level of stability afforded by the US testing standard of 10%.
Speaking of speed - doing 65 would probably be a bit much for me. I have no problem doing 55 or 60. I wouldn't be that guy trying to push 70-80 while towing. Vacation time is relaxing time. And typically where I'll be camping - it's 55 mph speed limit anyways & traveling through the mountains will be slow regardless to get to the coast line and once you get to the coast line you're 45-55mph in between coastal cities anyways.
#32
Interesting about our friends across the pond. But yes - they do love their smaller cars LOL I could see trailers fitting the same bill.
Speaking of speed - doing 65 would probably be a bit much for me. I have no problem doing 55 or 60. I wouldn't be that guy trying to push 70-80 while towing. Vacation time is relaxing time. And typically where I'll be camping - it's 55 mph speed limit anyways & traveling through the mountains will be slow regardless to get to the coast line and once you get to the coast line you're 45-55mph in between coastal cities anyways.
Speaking of speed - doing 65 would probably be a bit much for me. I have no problem doing 55 or 60. I wouldn't be that guy trying to push 70-80 while towing. Vacation time is relaxing time. And typically where I'll be camping - it's 55 mph speed limit anyways & traveling through the mountains will be slow regardless to get to the coast line and once you get to the coast line you're 45-55mph in between coastal cities anyways.
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That's why I chuckle a little bit at people getting so butt hurt over weight ratings. Sure - I'd like to follow em just like the next guy. But we all know very well that if a warning label says "max 1,220 lbs" and you come in at 1,224 lbs - bolts won't be stripping. I'm willing to bet the REAL limit is at least 80% more than the warning label suggests.
#34
Ouch!!
Story when I was driving for a living back in 88. Knucklehead in charge of requisitions for the tractors decided it would be a GREAT idea to purchase city trucks for the local deliveries.
City trucks are 3 axle tractors like any other typical tractor, however they have just the cab and a short frame, to get in and out of side streets and alleys. What Knuckle head totally failed to do was contemplate the fact that in order to pull the trailers that this company uses, which are flat beds as we hauled lumber and steel, the tractors needed headache racks installed(Bulkheads) because all the trailers were open front.
Well, guess what happens when you add 18" of bulkhead to a short WB tractor! Yep, move the 5th wheel all the way back. There was no way at all to adjust payloads on those trucks, you could not move the 5th wheel, which also made the front end extremely light. You had to bump steer them through the yard or you would just go in a straight line. It also made the Bridge Law a PITA to get right, and I did get nailed once for overweight, even though I was well under gross. 300 Freaking pounds on my drives that I could not shift due to that stupid BH.
That was MY introduction into the wrong TV world! Thankfully I didn't get stuck with one of those very long and actually got a nicer long truck, an International with a CAT. My last truck there was a beaut, 1985 MACK Superliner! Loved that truck.
#35
That's America for you!
That's why I chuckle a little bit at people getting so butt hurt over weight ratings. Sure - I'd like to follow em just like the next guy. But we all know very well that if a warning label says "max 1,220 lbs" and you come in at 1,224 lbs - bolts won't be stripping. I'm willing to bet the REAL limit is at least 80% more than the warning label suggests.
That's why I chuckle a little bit at people getting so butt hurt over weight ratings. Sure - I'd like to follow em just like the next guy. But we all know very well that if a warning label says "max 1,220 lbs" and you come in at 1,224 lbs - bolts won't be stripping. I'm willing to bet the REAL limit is at least 80% more than the warning label suggests.
Last edited by Gladehound; 12-07-2017 at 10:28 PM.
#36
Senior Member
The propane tanks, per manufacture, are included in the dry weight as empty tanks. I forgot about batteries. However I can re-run those anywhere as needed. I'd rather them be installed somewhere inside the trailer for added warmth (trailer is "four seasons rated" - probably just three seasons if we're realistic)
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#38
Good point! Thanks for adding. I sealed mine in a box under the foot of the bed (front bed) with a 2" PCV pipe that goes under the bed and through the front storage area to the original vended battery box that was inside the front of the trailer.
#39
Grumpy Old Man
Will the hitch weight ALWAYS be at least 1,200 lbs from unloaded to loaded?
Or will more weight in the back help balance out and keep that 1,200 hitch weight from rising?
The truck is a 2017 F150 SCREW 4x4 Maxi-tow 3.5EB 10 speed. 12,200 tow with WDH rating of 1,220 lbs (funny how it's in line with the max tow).
If you load the trailer to a reasonable gross weight of 9,780 and maintain a hitch weight of 13.67%, that's 1,337 pounds hitch weight. Or overloaded by 127 pounds. An overloaded receiver tearing loose from the frame of the tow vehicle is not a pretty sight.
If you shift a bit more weight to the rear to result in 13% hitch weight, that's 1,271 pounds hitch weight. Still 51 pounds overloaded on the receiver.
If you maintain 13% hitch weight and 1,220 pounds max hitch weight to not overload the hitch, that's a wet and loaded trailer weight of 9,384 pounds. So DW will not be a happy camper having to leave a lot of her good stuff at home.
Payload is fine.
Focus is how to calculate estimated trailer tongue weight when loaded based on numbers.
I'm not worried about the trucks. Just how to read/calculate the trailer estimates.
Last edited by smokeywren; 12-07-2017 at 10:39 PM.
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thrifty biil (12-25-2017)
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well we've established the limiting factor is of course the hitch itself rolling in at a max of 1,220 lbs WD.
Okay so -All the other numbers are OK. The limiting factor of course is the 1,220 lb max hitch weight.
The trailer needs to stay around 9,400 lbs loaded. That's do-able. That's about 600 lbs cargo in the trailer.
I'll need to run the numbers somehow in a calculator and figure out best way to load my gear in that trailer.
Okay so -All the other numbers are OK. The limiting factor of course is the 1,220 lb max hitch weight.
The trailer needs to stay around 9,400 lbs loaded. That's do-able. That's about 600 lbs cargo in the trailer.
I'll need to run the numbers somehow in a calculator and figure out best way to load my gear in that trailer.