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Weight distribution hitch for a cargo trailer

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Old 01-03-2016, 10:45 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jeffinthebag
Is there any credibility it the Anderson WDH? It looks like it might not be as good a regular WDH, but you are able shorten than chains to 24 inches to make it fit. Also with my weight varying from a couple thousand lbs (trailer&cargo) it would be easy to adjust with just a socket.
So does anyone use or have any experience with this? I just don't see how it actually lessens the tongue weight off the hitch. I don't want to overload or weaken the receiver with 800 tongue weight on it constantly.
The purpose of the WDH is not to lessen the tongue weight off the hitch. The purpose is to use the rear axle as a fulcrum to transfer weight back to the front wheels so they will have enough traction to make the tow vehicle turn properly.
Old 01-03-2016, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by atwowheelguy
The purpose of the WDH is not to lessen the tongue weight off the hitch. The purpose is to use the rear axle as a fulcrum to transfer weight back to the front wheels so they will have enough traction to make the tow vehicle turn properly.

Well, sorta.


The purpose of the WDH is to distribute hitch weight off the rear axle and onto the front axle of the Tow vehicle (TV) and the trailer axles. Ideal hitch weight distribution would be 20% to 25% to the front axle, another 20% to 25% to the trailer axles, and leaving 50% to 60% on the rear axle of the TV.


So if your TT grosses 7,000 pounds with 1000 pounds hitch weight, you want to adjust the hitch to have about 200 t0 250 pounds distributed to the front axle of the TV, another 200 to 250 pounds distributed back to the trailer axles, and retaining 500 to 600 pounds of hitch weight on the rear axle of the TV.


But my primary reason for wanting an excellent WDH is the built-in sway control. If you've ever had uncontrollable trailer sway, then you'll pay a lot to be sure it never happens again. So I drag my TT with a ProPride hitch.
Old 01-04-2016, 06:37 PM
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Smokey, I saw your white lariat with 7x14 cargo attached. I noticed regular mirrors on it. Are the standard mirrors enough? Or do you use slips on or swap out for the tow mirrors? If the standard mirrors are good enough, maybe even I will gat the 7x14 instead of the 6x12.
Old 01-04-2016, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffinthebag
Smokey, I saw your white lariat with 7x14 cargo attached. I noticed regular mirrors on it. Are the standard mirrors enough?

No, that photo was taken when the truck was new. Almost immediately I replaced the dinky little outside mirrors with tow mirrors from the Ford accessories catalog so I could safely tow my trailers.


Any trailer wider and taller than your tailgate requires tow mirrors for safe towing. I didn't want to pay the tab for the Lariat tow mirrors with chrome and memory, so I settled for XLT tow mirrors without memory. Easy plug&play bolt on job requires about 15 minutes per mirror after you learn where that little screw is in the armrest pocket.

Here's the link to my tow mirrors:
http://accessories.ford.com/exterior...ror-10319.html

That $440 price is list price for the kit that includes both mirrors, and you can get them for less from online Ford parts discounters, such as Tousley Ford (about $340). Use the part number from the link above.


http://store.revolutionparts.com/par...er-tow-mirrors
Old 01-06-2016, 04:08 AM
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To help you put your leveling bars on, do this. I have seen people get their heads split open when placing these leveling bars onto their trailer. After you have found the chain loop that makes your trailer and truck level, paint the link or mark it in some way that you can see it each time that you hook up your trailer. First, put the trailer hitch onto the ball and lock it to the tow vehicle so that it will not come off the ball. Next raise the stand to get it off the ground, place some 2x4s or what ever you use and place it under the lifting pad on the trailer tongue, you may need only one or two, now start cranking on your trailer lift until you have the truck and trailer a little above level. You may have to crank very hard to lift the truck and trailer together. Then you should be able to place the chain loop onto the U hook and with very little effort, lift the cam over with the pipe to lock the chain to the leveling load locks and place the carter pins or what ever you use to lock them so that they don't open. Then lift the crank pad all the way up, remove the 2X4 and the truck and trailer should be level without splitting your head open.
Thanks,
a56nomad



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