Wdh or no wdh? I need some advise
#1
Wdh or no wdh? I need some advise
Hey guys i am having a problem trying to find out if i should buy a weight distribution hitch or not. I plan on towing my race car, it weighs about 2,100 pounds, and the trailer weighs a little more than a thousand pounds. So, that leaves me under 5000lbs. I looked at the sticker underneath the truck, and it said 500 max tongue weight 5,000 max carrying. With wdh 1,100 max tounge and 11,000 max carrying.Soooooo my question is should i just buy a wdh? Or just go with it?
2016 f150 fx4
2.7 ecoboost
Gear ratios 3.73
Class 5 hitch
Thanks for reading
2016 f150 fx4
2.7 ecoboost
Gear ratios 3.73
Class 5 hitch
Thanks for reading
#2
Senior Member
Those numbers are the structural limitations of the hitch itself. Assuming you're all in at 35-3600 lbs and have somewhere between 350-400 lbs on the tongue, you should tow comfortably without a WDH. That being said, by the time this thread runs its course there will probably be people telling you its a menace to public safety and you should buy a Superduty.
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yimmyc88 (08-08-2017)
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Ricktwuhk (07-26-2017)
#4
Those numbers are the structural limitations of the hitch itself. Assuming you're all in at 35-3600 lbs and have somewhere between 350-400 lbs on the tongue, you should tow comfortably without a WDH. That being said, by the time this thread runs its course there will probably be people telling you its a menace to public safety and you should buy a Superduty.
#5
Those numbers are the structural limitations of the hitch itself. Assuming you're all in at 35-3600 lbs and have somewhere between 350-400 lbs on the tongue, you should tow comfortably without a WDH. That being said, by the time this thread runs its course there will probably be people telling you its a menace to public safety and you should buy a Superduty.
#6
Grumpy Old Man
If you haul absolutely nothing else in the trailer so the gross trailer weight is 3,100 pounds, then a properly-loaded trailer will have about 400 pounds tongue weight.
Soooooo my question is should i just buy a wdh? Or just go with it?
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP67509.html
The other purpose is to combine a good sway-control system to control trailer sway. "Good" sway control systems do not include friction-based sway bars. Instead, sway control or sway elimination is designed into the hitch. You want all the sway protection you an get, so instead of the cheap Reese hitch above, I'd install a Reese Strait-Line WD hitch that includes excellent sway control. Such as this one:
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66073.html
But read the fine print - that one does not include the adjustable shank, and you have to have the adjustable shank which costs another $100 or so. So figure on almost $600 for a complete Strait-Line WD hitch.
Reese has other versions of the Strait-Line hitch that includes the shank, but I can't find it on eTrailer.com. So maybe call them and raise a little cain. Or just go onto Amazon.com and find it there.
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#9
Mark
iTrader: (1)
No need for WDH.. trailer brakes... Yes !
#10
No longer stuck in 2003
Can you go without a WDH? Yes.
Is it safe? With your current numbers yes.
Would I get a WDH? For this situation yes if you are going to be pulling it regularly (more than once a month.)
Why? It adds a layer of safety and there will be that one day you need to haul more. 99% of the time you will be fine. It's just that 1% that can screw you over. Just my opinion.
Is it safe? With your current numbers yes.
Would I get a WDH? For this situation yes if you are going to be pulling it regularly (more than once a month.)
Why? It adds a layer of safety and there will be that one day you need to haul more. 99% of the time you will be fine. It's just that 1% that can screw you over. Just my opinion.