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WDH head spacers.

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Old 08-09-2015, 12:02 PM
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Default WDH head spacers.

If I remove spacers taking angle/tilt out of my round bar head unit will it transfer weight towards the trailer axles or the truck front axle?
Old 08-09-2015, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki 5.0
If I remove spacers taking angle/tilt out of my round bar head unit will it transfer weight towards the trailer axles or the truck front axle?
A WD Hitch takes weight off of the rear wheels of the truck and transfers it to the front of the truck and to the trailer wheels. They are not separable. You can't increase one without increasing the other.

Taking tilt out of your WD hitch head will make it harder to transfer weight to the front of the truck and to the trailer wheels. The chains to the bars would have to get shorter; and you maybe couldn't transfer enough weight.

Why don't you describe what problem you are trying to solve; or why you think you have a problem.
Old 08-09-2015, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by acadianbob
A WD Hitch takes weight off of the rear wheels of the truck and transfers it to the front of the truck and to the trailer wheels. They are not separable. You can't increase one without increasing the other.

Taking tilt out of your WD hitch head will make it harder to transfer weight to the front of the truck and to the trailer wheels. The chains to the bars would have to get shorter; and you maybe couldn't transfer enough weight.

Why don't you describe what problem you are trying to solve; or why you think you have a problem.
My hitch moved 240 lbs to the front axle 160 lbs to the trailer axles . Ford says to split the difference between front lift empty vs loaded with no WDH. I need a little less weight on the steer axles to do that. I have six links under the chain tensioner. I have read you can adjust where the adjusted weight goes by head angle , but no ever posts which way pushes the weight towards the trailer, thus my question. Thanks for you question.
Old 08-10-2015, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki 5.0
If I remove spacers taking angle/tilt out of my round bar head unit will it transfer weight towards the trailer axles or the truck front axle?
Neither. If you take spacers out it will decrease the angle between the bars and the trailer frame so it will reduce the tension on the bars when attached.

It will not take weight off the front end and put it on the trailer axle, that is not how the hitch works. It takes weight off the rear axle and distributes it to the front axle and trailer axle. How much weight goes to each axle depends in part on the distances from the ball to the front axle and from the ball to the trailer axle(s).
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki 5.0
My hitch moved 240 lbs to the front axle 160 lbs to the trailer axles . Ford says to split the difference between front lift empty vs loaded with no WDH. I need a little less weight on the steer axles to do that. I have six links under the chain tensioner. I have read you can adjust where the adjusted weight goes by head angle , but no ever posts which way pushes the weight towards the trailer, thus my question. Thanks for you question.
Ford is talking about the front truck height, not splitting the weight between the front of the truck and the trailer. Measure the distance from the ground to the front bumper; empty and loaded without WD hitch. Then use the WD hitch to bring the front bumper 1/2 way back from the loaded height to the unloaded height.
Old 08-10-2015, 08:30 AM
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And not all manufacturers agree with Ford about only returning half the weight taken off the front axle. Others say return "up to" all of the weight (return fender height to it's original, unloaded value) but no more. My Equal-I-Zer WDH says this.

So I figure anywhere between 50-100% weight return is good. And as my rear axle is a bit over-weight, I aim for 100% return to the front axle.
Old 08-10-2015, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by acadianbob
Ford is talking about the front truck height, not splitting the weight between the front of the truck and the trailer. Measure the distance from the ground to the front bumper; empty and loaded without WD hitch. Then use the WD hitch to bring the front bumper 1/2 way back from the loaded height to the unloaded height.
My apologies for not being more specific in my wording. I went more than half the distance back, more like 3/4 of the distance back and went from 4080 empty axle weight to 4020 distributed weight. My chains are very tight , in that I have to lift the truck quite a bit to get hooked. I think I am going to pull a spacer and reweigh-scale. I have five spacers in now.
Old 08-10-2015, 10:05 AM
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I tried putting more pressure on the front and thought that it made the handling rather squirrely. It's a balancing act for sure. And certainly individual taste for handling is a factor.

Let us know your results.
Old 08-10-2015, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by acadianbob
I tried putting more pressure on the front and thought that it made the handling rather squirrely. It's a balancing act for sure. And certainly individual taste for handling is a factor.

Let us know your results.
Now you've got me wondering...I dropped the head 3" last week because when the shop set it up the TT was nose up quite a bit. The trailer sits level now and with the bars attached my front fenders are the same height as with nothing attached. It towed ok at 65mph on the highway but maybe it would be better with one less spacer (the rear is about an inch and a quarter lower with everything connected than it is with no trailer).
Old 08-10-2015, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 11screw50
Now you've got me wondering...I dropped the head 3" last week because when the shop set it up the TT was nose up quite a bit. The trailer sits level now and with the bars attached my front fenders are the same height as with nothing attached. It towed ok at 65mph on the highway but maybe it would be better with one less spacer (the rear is about an inch and a quarter lower with everything connected than it is with no trailer).
The number one step is to make sure that your unloaded ball height is 1" higher than the top inside of the coupler when the trailer is level. If that isn't right, you'll never get it adjusted properly.


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