Will51

I know this has been discussed to death, but, I'm going to ask anyway for peace of mind.

I have a 2016 F150, SC, 3.55, 145" WB, max tow, 2wd, according to my calculations the truck weighs roughly 4995lbs, 3800lb GRAWR, 6800lb GVWR, 11,800lb max tow, payload capacity 1805lbs, 17000lbs CGVWR, hitch is rated at 1210lbs TW with WD hitch, 12200lb max tow.

Our number one choice for a TT is a Highland Ridge Roamer RT323RLS, dry weight is 8815lbs with 2620lbs carrying capacity giving it a GVWR of 11435lbs, TW is 1035lbs.

Having that said, we would never be close to maxing out the trailer, and we would tow maybe 3-4 times a year, with the tanks empty because we wouldn't be going anywhere that didn't have hookups (we go backpacking regularly so we get our "roughing it" fix doing that). We would be living in it full time for about a year or two when we move from Louisiana to the PNW.

My concern isn't short trips a few times a year, but the long trip from Baton Rouge to Tacoma/Seattle area. However, during that trip, neither my wife or my dogs would be in the truck with me, they'd be behind me in our Explorer.

So my math breaks down like this:

1805 pounds of payload capacity
-45lbs of me being over 150lbs
-1035lbs of TW
-160lbs for my trucks camper shell
-110lbs for WDH (a good 4 point weight and sway control hitch)

This will leave me with about 455lbs of available payload. Now assuming I'm not going to be towing the trailer completely dry, it will have some belongings with me, this is going to add to the TW, I'm estimating on the high end that we will have 1500lbs in the trailer, using the same ratio of the dry GVWR of the trailer vs dry tongue weight, adding 1500 pounds of gear would bring the adjusted tongue weight to 1152, still leaving me with 60lbs of tongue weight and 338lbs of payload available.

Obviously, as is usually the case, this is well within the limits of the "max tow" but the constraints are coming with the payload and TW.

So for my calculations, this is within the safe operational limits of the truck when taking into account payload, tongue weight max tow. I would definitely upgrade the truck or get a smaller trailer if we were towing more often. But I'm not sure I can justify getting a bigger truck for towing 3-4 times a year, and I don't want to be in a trailer we're unhappy with for full time living for up to 2 years.


We do have a second choice trailer, the specs on it are 8390lbs DW, 1455 CC giving it 9845lbs GVWR, TW 1045lbs (actually 10lb higher tongue weight than the first trailer). But. we'd have the same amount of gear, so, the weight savings is basically the 500lbs of the trailer's dry weight, and the TW is actually higher on the lighter trailer.

I guess I'm looking for some opinions/info from people that may have towed similar setups and what their experiences were like.

larry2c

Hi Will51 - yesterday I sat down and tried to put together a spreadsheet to calculate just what you are looking for. I did this for the same reason you are asking for feedback - there seems to be a lot of different inputs to the "how much can I tow" question. Take a look at the spreadsheet, put your numbers in and see what it says. If you see something I screwed up on in regards to the way the spreadsheet calculates, please let me know. Here's the link

Will51

Thanks, looks like a pretty good table to help with the math.

I know mathematically I'm under the specs. I was just wondering if anyone here has experience towing that close to max with a travel trailer.

smokeywren

Dry weight is almost useless. Trying to use dry weight will result in an overloaded tow vehicle.Wet and loaded tongue weight is your limiter.


Trailer GVWR of 11,465 means a wet and lightly-loaded TT of about 10,000 pounds. Tongue weight of 1300 pounds plus another 110 pounds for WD hitch = 1410 pounds hitch weight.


Ignore the payload capacity on your door sticker and calculate your actual payload capacity. To do that, weigh the truck with a full tank of gas and everyone and everything that will be in it when towing. Subtract that weight from the GVWR of the truck and the answer is the unused payload capacity available for gross hitch weight. If the answer is less than about 1,410, then you have to get rid of some weight somewhere, then weigh it all again.


Finally, the 1410 hitch weight and the 10k max trailer weight are both estimates. So weigh the wet and loaded rig on a CAT scale when on the road with the spring bars tight. Add the weights on the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle and compare to the GVWR of the tow vehicle. If your estimates were close to real world weights, then you shouldn't be overloaded.

tomt5078

http://towingplanner.com/


This is a good calculator to help with numbers!!!!!

Ricktwuhk

And add back the 150 pounds of yourself... You fully impact payload.

thrifty biil

Have the RV seller weigh the trailer "dry" for you. If they are not willing to do this, find another RV dealer. Chances are you will be shocked how much higher "real" dry weight is compared to the manufacturer's figure. Manufacturers are notorious for under-estimating dry weight, and they don't include common options such as awning, A/C, etc.

solarity

According to my calculations, your might be closer to approaching the limits of your hitch:

F-150:
Payload 1,805
Towing 11,800

Summary:
Payload Buffer 130
Towing Buffer 1,475
Hitch Buffer 20

Trailer Payload:
Trailer 10,000
Other 0
Total 10,000

Vehicle Payload:
People 195
Gear 10
Other 160
Weight Dist Hitch 110
Total 475

Weight on Hitch: 12%

dougk53

I think you really need to rethink you strategy. I have been lurking here for a while and after reading this I think you should forget all the numbers and concentrate on what really is going to have the greatest effect on your towing experience. First you will exceed your hitch weight but the factors you should be looking at are that you want to tow a trailer that is double the weight of your truck and twice as long as your truck not to mention the short wheelbase. Your truck will get pushed around and it will not be enjoyable. You mention driving cross country with this combo, if so I suggest you search the web for videos of semis and trailers actually getting blown onto their sides with alarming regularity in the plains states and out west by the horrific cross winds that are generated. This is my first post and if anyone wonders what my creds are I am a member of 4 different RV forums and have towed 5 different tag alongs with everything from a Toyota T100 to a 3500. I currently tow a 27ft (house length) with a 2014 F150 Eco Screw Max Tow that really provides a pleasurable tow experience. Forced into this truck due to DW back surgeries and do not regret it. You might want to think about researching these trailers online with a dealer from where you will be moving and eliminate having to tow cross country if you are insistent on this size TT. I have caught plenty of crosswinds in my time and having a well match combo can make all the difference. Good luck and stay safe whatever you decide.


Doug

acdii

Too heavy.

I can tell you right now that you would not be the least bit happy towing that trailer with a 145" WB truck! Regardless of what your payload is, the weight and length of that trailer will be very hard on your truck. My 2014 is a 145" WB truck, I pull a 6300# 28' long trailer and it is right on the edge of instability. If my WDH is off a bit, or I empty the FWT and have the black and gray tanks half full, it is a sway monster.

You are looking at something at least 4' longer and 4000# heavier. Just because it can by the numbers, doesn't mean it will do it well.