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After pic and front of truck is at same measurement as before just camper is alittle nose down now
Before and after pics, camper was nose high and sucked at highway speeds in traffic.
*driveway is angled a little up where truck sits also
Flipped the bar to lower ball approx. level with camper, so what does everyone think?
Should I raise the Ball up too next setting?
Front end measurement is 37 3/4 with WDH+ camper and empty so I'm at stock height as far as the front end goes.
More than likely the manual for the hitch will state, front fender as close to stock height when empty as when hitched, and to have the trailer level or slightly nose down, so sounds like you got it right. Only true way to know is to weigh it, first the truck empty, with just you, and then hitched up, if the front axle is close when hitched as it is when empty, then youcan't get much better than that.
Lots of people on here will indicate that nose high is bad and flat is best and nose low is OK (better than nose high). I can see how this is true for a single axle trailer. But for a 2 axle trailer like most the TT's that people on this forum tow, there are some potential problems with that advice.
I would never tow any two axle trailer nose down because it does several undesirable things.
1. It loads the front trailer axle and unloads the rear trailer axle making it easier for the rear trailer tires to scrub side to side in wind. (reducing the effect that dual axles have in stabilizing the trailer)
2. It reduces the tongue weight and effectively moves the center of gravity on the trailer rearward relative to the trailer axle with the most traction. (Where the trailer weight is on the ground is actually moving forward) )
3. It increase the mass behind the trailer tires with the most traction which means more sway inertia when it start pivoting around the front trailer axle.
Flat is best. I would go back to the first set up and just add a little tongue weight (move trailer CG forward) to make it completely flat. The more equal the loading of the rear axles, the better the dual axle set up will function as intended. Moving CG forward on the trailer should help your highway stability. Nose high shouldn't be bad either. There are some beneficial things that happen when the trailer is nose high (more tongue weight I.e. more forward CG on Trailer, longer distance from hitch to trailer wheels with the most traction.)
If you really want to diagnose your problem, let's start with measured tongue weight and measured trailer weight.
Last edited by Gladehound; 06-02-2018 at 08:58 PM.
Thanks guys!
I'm going back to what I had before flipping shank. Measurements are low on the nose side (camper frame ), too low for me to look at it, just not right.
I do need to get to the scales for sure and these P rated tires (20's @ 51 psi) are soft vs the XL's I ran on the tundra.
One more thing!
I have this shank and have always used the 2nd hole that puts the shank furthest in the receiver (#1200), what affect would It cause using the first hole (#1000) other than maybe being able to lower my tailgate. I'm at approx. #800 tongue.
I have the same shank. Using the other hole with give the WD bars less leverage on the truck thus will require more tension for the same effect. It will also lengthen the rear axle to hitch distance giving the trailer more leverage to sway the truck. Shorter is generally better.
Yea, I'm in the process of adjusting mine. Thought I had it perfect at home but I guess it wasn't level. Measured front and back and the front was too low at 2 diff events. I just raised the hitch a hole so hoping it level or close.
I've actually heard the opposite about wanting the front slightly lower than the back to help with sway. Your comment makes sense above so don't know what to believe personally. I'm a pro at disassembling and reassembling my equilizer though.
Ford’s recommendation I think is level or slightly nose down. My idea of “slightly” is within 1 degree over the distance from the coupler to just behind the rear axle. For my trailer that distance is 22.9 ft so one degree over that distance is 4 inches, 1/2 degree is 2 inches. I’m at about 2 1/2 inches nose down and have had no ill effects from it.
Ford’s recommendation I think is level or slightly nose down. My idea of “slightly” is within 1 degree over the distance from the coupler to just behind the rear axle. For my trailer that distance is 22.9 ft so one degree over that distance is 4 inches, 1/2 degree is 2 inches. I’m at about 2 1/2 inches nose down and have had no ill effects from it.
Pretty much nailed it. Thankfully I was able to get mine dead level when all hitched up. I have that level gauge on the side to verify.
One other thing to be aware of, the Refer in an RV works best when level because it uses liquid Ammonia in a boiler, so if its off level the boiler can either get a hot spot, or a cold spot and not work properly, so as close to level is best when traveling when the Refer is lit.
Pretty much nailed it. Thankfully I was able to get mine dead level when all hitched up. I have that level gauge on the side to verify.
One other thing to be aware of, the Refer in an RV works best when level because it uses liquid Ammonia in a boiler, so if its off level the boiler can either get a hot spot, or a cold spot and not work properly, so as close to level is best when traveling when the Refer is lit.
06-02-2018, 03:31 PM
Tundra to F150 WDH reset advise
