Floridaguy80

That is very interesting I'm sure we can raise and lower the trailer very quickly as well lol

KR Kodi

iTrader: (1)

I have a light utility trailer and got one of the 1000 lb tongue weight jacks from Harbor Freight - I've never had more than about 75 lbs of tongue weight on it. It should mount out of the way and has the side-crank handle:


http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...?q=tongue+jack


You can see they have a dual wheel one that can handle 1500 lbs - it says it's for boat trailers, but I'm sure it would work on a utility trailer as well.


You can see they also have an electric tongue jack for $130.




EDIT: Never mind!! I just took another look at your picture of the box mounted on the tongue, and there's no room on the arms to mount the side-crank handle. Best thing is probably like Rockjock3 mentioned to take the handle off the top and use a drill to raise and lower it.

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spotterjoe

Understood-There is a 6" caster wheel that fits the jack for $12.99 at etrailer. I also found the same wheel for $10.99 on the internet. So you at looking at $40.00 for a total solution. The wheel is a nice addition to any trailer as you can maneuver it into tight spaces that would be impossible attached to the truck. Here is the site for both the jack & wheel.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack...V20000103.html
Let us know what you decide

Zrock

Another option is some quick release pins and make the box removable.

Floridaguy80

What's Y'all's opinion on this. Get a cheap broke battery 12v drill, remove the battery and hook up some wires to it so it will power from the hitch harness? The ONLY issue I see is that the drill may pull to many amps and kill my wires.
I did take off the handle and chucked up my cordless drill OMG did it lower and raise the trailer fast!!!
Opinions?

spotterjoe

A typical 12V drill (Black & Decker) pulls about 12A and the 12V trailer battery charger circuit on the truck (relay 21 & fuse 9) is rated at 30A so you should be ok. That is pin 4 on your 7 pin connector. When looking at the truck connector it is at the 1 o'clock position. I would take a bad battery, remove the batteries, and wire to the connectors. Make sure that you have the correct polarity! Personally, it seems like a lot of work. Why not just use the drill that you tested with?

PerryB

What about extending the shaft above the top of the box?

Floridaguy80

Huh? What do you mean?

PerryB

Take the crank handle off and make an extension that attaches to the jack screw stub, long enough to get the crank above the top of the box.

Floridaguy80

But I would have to have a piece of bar machined right? Not sure how I can attach a piece of bar to the factory stub.