Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans - Trailer battery charging for electric/hydraulic actuator

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- - Trailer battery charging for electric/hydraulic actuator (https://www.f150forum.com/f82/trailer-battery-charging-electric-hydraulic-actuator-424468/)

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTX1800N1 (Post 5887398)

Yes, it's a travel trailer. It's near the max that my F150 can tow. 10K lbs fully loaded. The GVWR for the trailer is over 11K lbs, but it also lists over 3K lbs payload (just under 8K dry weight), so I don't ever use up all of that.

I've properly adjusted the drum brakes on the trailer, but would still prefer more brake power. I have the gain on my factory controller set to max (10) and it will not lock the trailer brakes at 20-25 MPH when I quickly pinch the controller. I checked my truck manual and it says this might happen with heavy trailers.

I would like the much improved brake power of hydraulic disc brakes on the trailer before I drive through any mountains. To be sure, I can feel the trailer brakes working, but in my opinion no electric drum brakes are adequate for a 10K lb trailer even if it were connected to a 1 ton truck. Electric/hydraulic disc brakes are simply a much better, more powerful option.

If you haven't modified the trailer or added more weight than its factory configuration, then I wouldn't worry about the wheels not locking up. That much weight on the wheels could prevent the tires from locking up even with hydraulic brakes.

The original electric brakes are designed to work with the trailer and I would personally trust them more than completely changing out the braking system for something aftermarket... Just because they don't lock up doesn't mean they aren't working as intended. Remember that it's the total braking power of BOTH the trailer AND truck that will stop you, and unless you feel like the trailer is pushing the truck, changing the brakes won't help. Also, don't expect to be able to stop as quickly or easily when towing 10k+ lbs as when you're not towing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBoost (Post 5888095)

Of course I don't expect that, but I do expect that disc brakes will do a much better job of slowing the trailer than the electric drums it left the factory with. There are not many regulations in the RV industry when compared with the auto/light truck industry. It's my opinion that electric drums in trailers this heavy are completely inadequate to the task. The kit I'm going to install is made by Kodiak, which is a highly reputable company.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulWil (Post 5887427)

VTX here is a Q for you. When you have the trailer hooked up truck engine on what is the voltage on your house battery. A full charging voltage would be 14.3+ whereas with the truck off the house battery should read 13.6+/- . What say you?
'
Then to answer you Q we need to measure the current for real.
Here how. Trailer hooked up - truck motor on - Find the +12 wire and using your clamp on current meter get a reading then put a big load on the trailer and get another reading. Do it again but use the +12 for the small breakaway batt, but have some one push on the truck brakes to get a big reading. Report back.

Thanks for the reply. I'll have to get my voltmeter out and check the next time I hook up to the trailer.

The simple answer is: ditch the small brake battery, and connect the brake system to the main trailer battery. Then you don't have to worry about charging different batteries.

If you find the brake system draining the battery, add a 2nd identical battery, and you STILL won't have to worry about charging different batteries.

What Steve says is true. There is only one source of +12 going to the trailer. That +12 charges both the brake battery and the house battery.
The real question is still unanswered as to whether the current to either of both batteries is adequate or somehow reduced from the truck source.
Then the second question is for a trailer with a house battery does that battery contribute power to the brakes?

My TT has one battery and it's both the house battery and breakaway battery. 85Ah deep cycle and is always topped up thanks to my solar panel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulWil (Post 5890426)

The real question is still unanswered as to whether the current to either of both batteries is adequate or somehow reduced from the truck source.

The truck has no effect on the current that the trailer battery supplies to the trailer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulWil (Post 5890426)

Then the second question is for a trailer with a house battery does that battery contribute power to the brakes?

It does if it's wired to the brakes, regardless whether there's another battery.

You seem to be overthinking this...

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulWil (Post 5890426)

According to the Lippert wiring schematic, only for the emergency break away circuit.

I'll be pulling my TT out of storage tomorrow. I'll check voltage after I pop the house battery back into it, both connected to the truck and not. I keep the house battery in my garage on a CTEK charger/maintainer when we aren't using the camper.

My battery charges while I am towing which is nice because my jacks and tongue are power. Plus when I tow my trailer with the battery on the fridge inside and outside start cooling. My truck does have to be running to charge the battery though because if runs low I power tongue won't work. So a lot of times I back the trailer up and plug in the trailer so I can use my car battery to lower the tongue.