xcntrk

And there's an even easier means of increasing payload the right way...

5.0GN tow

Yep exactly what I said, usually easier to buy a bigger truck. For me though I use my truck for business (most of the time and pulling horses a little of the time) and getting a new truck has tax implications if not done on a specified schedule. So if I can upgrade and recertify I will, if not then I will wait on changes to the trailer until I can buy a bigger truck.

Snowdog

What you want to look at is the GCWR or Gross Combined Weight Rating. That is the total weight that the truck, cargo/passengers and trailer can weigh. The max for your truck is 14,900 and could be as low as 12,900. Subtract the weight of the truck and the remaining gives you the max weight of the trailer and cargo. The GCWR should be on your door sticker. IF you are stopped and your weight is checked, this is what the DOT will be looking at. While it is very rare that a pickup and trailer is checked, I have seen it happen and have had discussions with people who have been checked. While most people get concerned about how hard the truck runs while towing, a more important thing is getting it stopped. I own a 29' travel trailer that weighs 6500 lbs empty, I have roughly about 1500 lbs that I am comfortable adding to the trailer and truck. My 2013 has a GCWR of 15000 to 15500 lbs. Ecoboost with 3.55 and tow package. I had 2 Dodge Hemis (04 and 09) before this truck and this one tows the trailer much better.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...rv&tt_f150.pdf

jkenprice1

I've towed a 14 ft enclosed trailer for work for 10 years. It's usually not too heavy, but occasionally it's overloaded. My last 2 reucks have been f150's. The truck before that was a 97 LD 250. I hatrd the rough ride of the 250, especially with E rated tires, but it handles the trailer much better than either of the 150's. Besides heavier springs, which make a more stable ride, the 250 has bigger brakes, bigger bearings, heavier shocks, etc. It just works better. Lots of people pull what you want to pull with a 150. It's can be done. Is it the best way to go, no. IMO, the short list of things that will make your towing experience better are better brakes and airbags or helper springs. Brake upgrade for stopping safty and springs'bags for handling. I'd also take of the big tires or regear. You need to be able to safely intergrate into the flow of traffic. I don't really care about the weight limit on the sticker if you make some upgrades to make the truck safer. You just need to be aware of the legal implications of being above the sticker numbers. I may have been out of line with the comment about your priorities, but it did seem like you were putting form above funtion. I thing you would be better with a 250. If you choose to go with the 150, I just want you to be aware that you're at the upper limits of the truck and drive accordingly.

Feathermerchant

5.0GN tow - If you read the PDF in my post above it has the section modulus and steel yield strength specifications in it. The highest modulus is for the HD payload frames in every case. Post a pic of your GVW sticker so we can see the rear axle GW rating. Mine is 4800 lb.

smurfs_of_war

- regearing will help a bit with the perceived struggles uphill AND will likely net you improved fuel economy in town. You will need to get it reprogrammed, however I am certain Ford can't do it since 4.10s are not an available option for that truck. You'd need a custom tuner or a tuning shop to do it.
- change out your rubber on all 4 corners and the recommendation for the BFGs is a solid one. Best towing tire in an AT as far as I am concerned and the regear will all but eliminate the mpg loss you may see.
- get either airbags or an add a leaf in the rear. Add a leaf will raise the unloaded rear height and be stiffer permanently, bags will be adjustable with no lift in the height.
- If you level- either of the aforementioned products are a must or your truck will look like a dog dragging its *** on the floor when you tow. Don't lift- you'll likely regret it for economy and overall satisfaction when pulling the camper. You'll be chucking thousands (because don't forget you'll need a different/ better hitch and extended stinger etc) out the window only to dread hooking up to your trailer. White knuckle moments are amplified when you have kids in the truck with you and your *** will end up chewing a hole through the seat padding.

These are just small pieces that I have learned by towing stupidly overloaded in the past. Not a fun time always playing weight police and worrying whether I would make the next turn off or not, but if you're going to do it- make sure to shore the truck up and you should be fine. By what I am seeing- you're talking maybe a few hundred overloaded. Wait until those kids get bigger. I don't like to openly admit it too often, but my last over the scale trip this summer is one item that pushed me into a 2500- we were 1611lbs over GVWR. The weight of my family alone is 1200lbs. Add hitch, tongue weight, **** in the back... you get the idea. Do what you can to beef up your truck now, but start sand bagging for a trade up in the future.

5.0GN tow

Feathermerchant, RBM is calculated from sectional modulus and yield strength, when you plug in the numbers the HD comes out below the 144.5 frame. Sectional modulus is strictly the measurement of the cubic inches of dimensions of the frame. The formula is sectional modulus x yield strength= RBM. Yield strength is also important as its rating of the ability the of frame to return to original shape without permanently deforming.

The calculations below will explain what I am talking about.

144.5 frame

5.70 x 49300= 281010

HD

7.20 x 36000 = 259200

Feathermerchant

So why would Ford make the HD with a lower RBM than an SD? And why then is my gross weight and payload greater than yours?

5.0GN tow

Can't explain it but I will attempt to. It would seem to mostly be due to springs, wheels and the extra lug nut for the 09 to 14 trucks, and just stronger wheels and six lugs for the 2015s to go with better springs. So the frame difference really does not have much to do with payload, it's more about the other links in the system.

For 2015 ford changed the frames of the HDPP trucks to the higher strength steel, and it now Rates higher than the non HDPP frames.

Interestingly the F150s all rate higher in RBM than the current superduty trucks. They have really over built the 150 trucks. Again I am going to speculate this was on purpose as Ford is merging the lines of SD and F150 trucks for 2017. Since they will use the same cab, cabin, doors etc, it may indicate frame commoality at least in part. Clearly the current superduty trucks are more than sufficient to do heavier work than than the 150s. The frame is only one aspect and probably not the most critical as all of them greatly exceed the requirements.

Wheels, tires,springs, etc can make a huge difference. The ford 9.75 axle is as strong or very nearly so as the Dana 60 and Ford clearly rates it at 4800 with appropriate springs, tires and wheels. My truck is rated at 7350 GVWR and GAWR is 3850. The difference in GVWR between our two trucks is approximately the same as the difference between the rear GAWRs.

Clearly yours is rated higher, not contesting that at all, just pointing out that the frames of the 09 to 14 144.5wb trucks, many of which are max tow packages, are pretty stout trucks and other than spring sets and the 7lug wheels have the same axle as your truck.

Velosprout

Thanks for the information. Did or do you work for Metalsa/Dana/Tower?


The OP is requesting advice to make his truck more safe, capable, and comfortable towing and transporting his family. When someone is asking for modification advice for higher payload, higher towing capacity, more towing stability, better towing mileage, etc., the best advice is rarely given; trade the truck for a new truck that meets their needs rather than to waste time, money, and depreciate the value of their present vehicle with modifications of questionable success.


Furthermore, when trading for a new vehicle, you can't buy a new 2014 or 2015 Heavy Duty payload package trucks. There are very few new 2014 HD payload SuperCrew trucks left on lots (3 or 4 nationwide last time I searched), 2015 HD payload trucks are rarer than big lottery wins, and 2016 HD payload trucks are late availability with an expected late February or early March build.


Any used HD payload truck would be at least a 2014; already two model years old, and most likely would have been used or abused for their intended purpose of heavy payload or towing.


So, my best advice is to "mod" by ordering a 2016 HD Payload Package Max Tow SuperCrew 3.5 Ecoboost or by purchasing a 2016 SuperDuty SuperCrew or 3/4 ton from Ram or GM.


Unlike adding tunes, aftermarket wheels and tires, switching out gears, adding airbags, rebuilding springs or adding helper springs, etc., the trade up to the new vehicle will get factory engineered and legal performance capacity, with a warranty. And, likely in the long run, be less expensive. OP can enjoy his time camping with his spouse and the three kids instead of tinkering with modifications.