if you can, move stuff from bed to rear of TT. it may take a "load" off of the hitch. just a thought...

Zee

 

Well, I wouldn't be towing more than #8000, but even so, I'd have to keep the tongue weight as low as possible. If I ever wanted to travel with 4 people in the truck (it would usually be 2 only), I'd be in a tough position! There would also be no room for gear in the truck. NOT that I am considering to do so, BUT I'm curious what could happen if the payload is exceeded. Has anyone taken this risk and paid the consequence?

 

The F150 you are looking at will not work, too low of payload. That 7500# trailer will be 950# tongueweight, add 100 for wdh, consider at times you will add water in your trailer, throw firewood in the bed because campstores are ridiculous, and the list goes on. I would tow that trailer with my F150 maxtow, it would be the upper end of what I would do (and I'm generally a the conservative side with numbers). Stay away from dealerships for towing advise, knowledgeable people are rare. There are people who would tow that trailer with a 2.7 even. I'm not saying you wouldn't rather a F250, for me, it was a bit stiff for a daily driver. Trucks are hard to find, and there is a RV Trailer craze going on, so finding a maxtow might be tough (I ordered mine). I'd only consider an ExpeditionEL, not the standard flavor, too short of wheelbase.

 

[QUOTE=wildermaz;6922184BUT I'm curious what could happen if the payload is exceeded. Has anyone taken this risk and paid the consequence?[/QUOTE]

I guess it depends how far over you want to go. I'm ALWAYS maxed out on my payload, even over it 50-100 lbs on one or two trips. But remember you gain payload as you use up gas. 36 gallons of gas is about 230 lbs. Truck loves to run heavy. Just my 2 cents

 

I agree with Mike the HDPP model and I assume other models as well like to run heavy and can handle it well if balanced and loaded properly. Mine is often near or at max capacity and I have been over more than once I'm sure. My truck did not spontaneously combust, there was no flag to law enforcement to immediately pull me over and haul me away to jail, a hoard of lawyers did not descend and start lawsuits, I still don't have covid and the sun came up this morning.

Exceeding payload once in a while is not the egregious act some seem to think it is. How far over you go and how stable and safe your rig is to move down the road is your call. YOUR JUDGEMENT AND EXPERIENCE ARE THE KEY. Knowing you are over and how far over you are is helpful as well. If loaded heavy REDUCE YOUR SPEED (I try to keep the speed under 65), INCREASE YOUR FOLLOWING DISTANCE (I like 3-4 seconds OR MORE between me and the guy in front of me). plan your moves well in advance. Your truck is not as nimble as it is under normal operating conditions. find a large empty parking lot and practice emergency stops and turns and get a feeling of how this big heavy thing reacts so you have an idea how it behaves.

All this being said I don't recommend regularly exceeding known limits and always keep the safety of your occupants and others on the road first and foremost in your mind. Get to a scale and weigh your rig to know your limits. If planning and you don't have the trailer to weigh use Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings for the truck and trailer and estimate everything on the heavy side. It is better to have more truck than not enough.

 

Contrary to popular belief the truck does not self destruct, axles remain under the truck and it's all good.
Just returned from a camping trip at a bubby's farm and brought home a load of rocks. The truck was squatting so I was curious how overloaded I was. Hit a CAT scale and wasn't too bad 4000lbs on the 3800lb axle. Windy day and the camper puled nicely.

Hope this helps you get comfortable filling the truck up to it's GVWR, no need to arbitrary invent a safety factor it's safe at the GVWR.

 

In order of priorities I would have for towing
3.5 or 5.0? toss up based on personal preference. I’ve used both and love the low end torque of the 3.5
Upgraded cooling (standard with most tow packages)
36 gallon tank
3.55 rear end (compromise daily driving with towing)
Pro Trailer Assist

I’m pulling a 7,000 pound worse case, COVID loaded with a month groceries, wet TT. My 14 XLT 5.0 that was basically stock towed it tens of thousands of miles from Texas to Maine and across Canada. Never once did I think I needed more truck. I’m set with a weight distributing hitch which really helps.

Based on a much smaller sample size my 2021 3.5eb XLT 302a with the 53a tow package, 36 gallon tank, 3.55, 6.5 bed is several steps better at towing. I’ll be putting on about 6,000 miles this summer and will have a better report.

 

For a long term buy: xlt screw 4x4 hdpp max tow you will have 2550+ of payload. Truck will not feel at max and if you want to bring stuff, don't have to count or stress. My truck unloaded 2 adults and a fiber cab on bed weights 3450# fa and 2860# ra 6310# without hitch and camping stuff inside and at 7700 tt you will have around 1000# min on tongue so I will be at 7310 no children no camping stuff so you will be already and 600-700# over if the truck only have a 7000# gvwr. I prefer to pay for utility options than chrome options when I buy a truck.

For a short term leaser user do what you want, the next buyer will have your problems.and pay to fix them

 

when you say “tiny house” do you truly mean a small house or is this a travel trailer? If it’s a tiny house is the hitch similar to a travel trailer? I’ve seen different designs and it will impact what you can tow. If it’s like a travel trailer there is a considerable amount of weight on the hitch. I’ve also seen custom builds where axles are under the front and rear of the trailer. Also, if it’s a custom build do you have trailer brakes?

 

if its a real tiny house Wooden square box 13 foot tall, weight the tongue first, the front footage is too big for a 150, and verify for 250 or 350 gaser. ITs a real big box to moove all year long.