TerryD64

This is common they need to sell product to make commission. It's your job to make sure you are buying what you need. An RV salesman will tell you that a VW beetle can tow that 20K Toyhauler if that's what he needs to do to get the sale.
The Truck salesman will tell you what the "Best In Class" numbers are and the theoretical (Mythical?) max values to make the sale.

Most salespeople (RV or Truck) don't know what is required to calculate towing numbers or tow safely.

Ultimately it is your responsibility to perform the required due diligence and purchase the right tool for the job.

I will keep my opinion to myself as to what is "Safe" or do-able as that has more to do with the technical proficiency of the driver, the maintenance on the vehicles in question, how well the trailer is loaded , etc. I have seen plenty of rigs going down the road that while they may not be "overweight" they're certainly NOT safe.

HangDiver

I'm going to guess that you are way over your trucks payload....

smokeywren

Yeah, probably a salesman and not a dealer, lied to you about your payload capacity,.

Those are the spec dry weights, but you cannot use dry weight to match trailer to tow vehicle. So it's your fault for not learning more before buying an RV trailer. Specs for the 28BH shows a GVWR of 10,995, or to make the math easy, rounded to 11,000 pounds, 5ers around 11k gross weight have pin weight of about 20% of gross trailer weight. If you're not a full-timer, then you'll probably not load the 5er to the max of 11k, but to about 10,000 pounds gross weight. So count on 2,000 pounds pin weight.

With payload capacity of 1753 and pin weight of 2000 pounds, plus another 200 to 300 pounds for a good 5er hitch installed, then yep, you'll be severely overloaded.

Sorry Charlie, but the HDPP, or anything that will increase payload capacity, is not available aftermarket. If Ford didn't built into the truck at the assembly plant, then the only way to raise the payload capacity is to sell that F-150 and buy something with a lot more payload capacity.

There is no "good" solution other than trade for a heavier-duty tow vehicle or trade for a much lighter-weight RV trailer. However, you're not the first RVer to buy too much trailer for your tow vehicle. You have the wonderful 3.5L EcoBoost towing machine, so power and torque to pull the trailer up the hill and over the pass is not your problem. Payload capacity of your suspension system and frame is the problem, but there is no reasonable-cost way to legally increase the payload capacity of your F-150. Some add overload air suspension (air bags) to the rear suspension and "make do" with an overloaded F-150. The air bags can be inflated to mask the main symptom of an overloaded tow vehicle of the headlights aiming for the stars and blinding oncoming traffic. Also some brands of overload rear spring have been used instead of air bags.

But if you go the air bag patch route and tow overloaded, then learn to load the 5er to have about 15% pin weight instead of the normal 20%. For example, if the fresh water tank is in front of the trailer axles, then haul only enough fresh water to flush the pottie when on the road. If you have a front "basement" storage compartment, then do not haul anything heavy in that compartment

Yep. Welcome to the world of newbee RVers.

Jaycee2018

smokeywren

You don't need to know pin weight. You need to know front and rear and trailer axle weights, which the CAT scale gives you with one pass.

Add the weight on the front and rear axles to get GVW of the tow vehicle, then compare GVW to GVWR of the tow vehicle.

Compare the weight on the rear axle to the rGAWR of the tow vehicle.

Add the GAWRs of the trailer axles to get combined trailer GAWR, then compare combined GAWR to the actual weight on the trailer axles.

Compare the gross weight of the rig to the GCWR of the tow vehicle.

That's all the info the CAT scale gives you, but it's everything you need to know to determine if you're overloaded.

So even if you don't NEED to know pin weight, if you're just curious, then in addition to the one pass over the scale above, you need another pass over the scale, but this time without the trailer.

Up above, you added the weight on the front and rear axles to get GVW of the tow vehicle with the trailer attached. Then with the second pass over the scale you got the GVW of the tow vehicle without the trailer. GVW with the trailer minus GVW without the trailer = pin weight.

Some might try to tell you that you can compare the weight on the rear axle with and without the trailer to get pin weight. But that's fake news. A properly-installed 5er hitch is going to put some of the pin weight on the front axle, so you need to use GVW, not just rear axle weight, to determine pin weight.

Sweetlou

Jaycee2018

Jaycee2018

TerryD64

Lt tires are generally stiffer. The c rated Lt tires that came with my hdpp work well for me.
c rated are fine . This will not alter your GVWR. It will negatively affect available payload as Lt tires are heavier.

Jeff1024

Think you are missing the point here buddy. Your 9k fifth wheel is well into 3/4 Ton truck territory. I would also look into a long bed truck, I am honestly a bit curious how you got the fifth wheel to turn /w the 5.5ft F150 bed. Do you still have a back window?