rolandr

Would appreciate input from anyone with what "I don't know what I don't know". Bought my 2013 SuperCab used so I don't have the Build Sheet and not sure what option pkg I have but it is the 3.7 2WD. I have tow/haul feature and factory receiver but can't tell if that is std. equip., at any rate I don't know if that means I'm equipped with any other towing features. I don't see a sway control switch as described in the manual.

I have determined that GCWR 11,100; GVWR 6,700; GAWR (F)3,450 (R)3,800 & Max Tow Rating 6,400. I shouldn't have a weight problem (I don't think) because for fuel economy & parking issues I want to stay well underweight in the area of 4,000 lbs.

If I stay below 5,000 will I need trailer brakes, wt.distributing hitch, sway bars, etc. & (finally) any recommendations for brands/models to seek or avoid would be appreciated as well as references to links, threads and so on.

Thanks People

KR Kodi

iTrader: (1)

Take a look on your driver's door for the stickers that will have your truck's numbers. You have already given us your GVWR, GAWRs, and GCWR, but what is your payload capacity???

It will be on the tire sticker with the yellow on it:




The payload capacity is the weight of the empty truck with nothing in it except for a full tank of gas. Any after-delivery items you've added (bed liner, tonneau, etc.) must be subtracted from the published payload capacity.

How much weight will you be carrying in the truck - weight of people and stuff you'll carry in the cab and bed?? Subtract that weight from the payload capacity and the remaining is the max tongue weight of a trailer.

So....what's your payload capacity, and what is the weight of people and stuff you'll carry in the truck when towing?

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Farmboy2012

Put your vin in here, if you want to see your window sticker.. So you can see what options came on your truck.

http://www.fordf150.net/misc/window-sticker.php

brulaz

Think any F150 can handle a 4000# trailer.

You will not NEED a WDH if the tongue weight is under 500#, but sway control can still be useful, especially in emergency maneuvers, so you may want to get one. A cheap one with separate friction sway bar will work fine. An Equal-I-Zer with built in sway control will be easier to install with no driling in the trailer frame, but is more espensive. THere are others.

You need trailer brakes if over about 2500#

tomb1269

Brakes on a trailer is mostly determined by the state in which the trailer is/was purchased. For instance NY state if the trailers dry weight is over 1200lbs it requires brakes (yes a 1400lb popup trailer required brakes). If you are buying new I would strongly suggest buying with a trailer w/electric brakes. Its nice to be able to hit the manual break lever if the trailer starts to track badly on grooved payment. As for sway, (with exception to high wind conditions) a trailer properly packed (60/40 split front to rear) with poperly inflated tires (air pressure up to tire spec and equal in all tires) should not have a sway problem unless there is mechanical / alignment problem with the trailer suspension.

rolandr

Awesome, this is good info., hey, I got my window sticker! Thanks Farmboy. Kodi, the payload is 1,457. Brulaz, what is WDH?
Anybody like MicroLite?
Gracias

brulaz

WDH = Weight Distribution Hitch

If you look under the hitch receiver on your truck, you will see a tag that says 500# tongue weight and 5000# trailer weight if a "weight carrying" hitch is used, and possibly 1050# tongue weight and 10500# trailer weight if a "weight distributing" hitch is used. (Maybe 1150/11500)

As you are under 5000# trailer weight and hopefully under 500# tongue weight, you do not need a WDH. But they are still useful.

rolandr

This fourm is great. My knowledge has gone way up from where it was. Brulaz now has directed me to the hitch tag that tells me I'm 10.5K/1,050K w/ WDH and 5K/500 w/ weight carrying hitch. So to start I think I should have a brake controller installed. I see a wide range of prices. Appears I'll need a 2 axle controller, always price conscious, anyone got recomendations for a particular brand/model. Am pretty sure I'll need to have it installed for me.

brulaz

By far the best brake controller for your truck is Ford's. You can install it yourself then get the dealer to "flash" the truck's computer to activate it, or have them do the whole thing.

You've got the 7 pin electrical socket already installed next to the hitch receiver? If not, I suspect all the cabling for the brake controller and socket is in place. But you will need the socket, connecting cables and so on.

KR Kodi

iTrader: (1)

I agree with brulaz - the Ford ITBC ("Integrated" Trailer Brake Controller) is really great. I think it's usually around $135 on eBay, and shouldn't be more than 1/2 hour labor for your dealer to flash your truck to recognize it.

The Ford ITBC will then pop up your trailer in the instrument display when connected, and keeps track of distance you've pulled the trailer for info you can use for maintenance of trailer brakes, bearings, etc.

It also adjusts trailer brake input below 20 mph for smoother stops. There are a couple very nice aftermarket TBCs, but none are "integrated" and can't do the stuff listed above.

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