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Rear sag when towing a trailer

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Old 05-19-2013, 10:17 AM
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Default Rear sag when towing a trailer

Just wondering if the camping place setup my WD hitch correctly. Rear sag is 2 inches over rear wheels and the front wheel well is up 3/4 inch.

Ford says to cut the difference in half but they didn't measure it at all. They just told me it has to be level and said it was good.



Rear sag when towing a trailer-image-3017933286.jpg

Any help would be appreciated .
Old 05-19-2013, 11:41 AM
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You need to weigh the rig on a CAT scale twice. Once with the WD springs bars hooked up for towing, and once with the spring bars disconnected. Plus you need to know tongue weight . If you don't have access to a tongue weight scale, then you need a third CAT scale weight - this time of the truck only without the trailer.

With those three CAT scale reports, you have all the data you need to determine the percentage of tongue weight that is distributed to the front axle of the tow vehicle and to the trailer axles.

Ideal is 25% of the tongue weight distributed to the front axle of the tow vehicle, and another 25% distributed to the trailer axles. That leaves about 50% of the tongue weight on the rear axle of the tow vehicle.

If you don't have about 50% of the tongue weight left on the rear axle of the tow vehicle, then the fix is to adjust the spring bars. Either tighten or loosen the tension on the spring bars to transfer more or less weight off the rear axle of the tow vehicle.

After you have about 50% of the tongue weight on the rear axle of the tow vehicle, then compare the percent of tongue weight that was distributed to the front axle and trailer axles. If they are not close to the same, then you need to change the angle of the hitch ball to the coupler on the trailer tongue. Exactly how you do that depends on the brand of your WD hitch. On my Reese Strait-line, I loosen a bolt and move a notched washer one or two notches. But most cheaper hitches don't have notched washers.

My numbers as an example. The trailer was not loaded for traveling, so this exercise was simply to determine if the WD hitch was properly adjusted:

Without spring bars connected:
3040 front axle
3880 rear (drive) axle
-------
6920 GVW
3480 trailer axles
----------
10,400 GCW
==========

With spring bars connected:
3280 front
3520 rear
----------
6800 GVW
3620 trailer axles
----------
10,420 GCW = 20# scale error you can ignore
============

650 Tongue weight per Sherline tongue weight scale
==========

3280 - 3040 = 240 difference in front axle weight = 37% of hitch weight = too much
3620 - 3480 = 140 difference in trailer axle weight = 21.5% = close but a bit light
3880 - 3520 = 360 distributed off the rear axle = 290 left on the rear axle = 45% = not quite enough but one less chain length would probably make it worse the other direction.

So I need to adjust the angle of the ball to the coupler to result in more weight on the trailer axles and less weight on the front axle of the TV.

Last edited by smokeywren; 05-19-2013 at 12:14 PM.
Old 05-19-2013, 11:52 AM
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OK, this is a little out on a limb because I'm just looking at your photo. The trailer seems a little high in front? It should be totally level.

Nothing you do is going to work right unless your ball height is correct to begin with. Measure the height to the inside of your trailer coupler when it is sitting level. The ball height on your truck should be approximately 1" higher when the truck is unloaded.

Measure the unloaded distance from the road to the inside arch of your wheel wells front and back. Then add the trailer without WD bars. Measure again. Front will be up and back will be done. Bring the front halfway back to the unloaded distance with the WD bars. Your REAR should be about 1" down after adjustment. That will bring the ball height to about exactly where the coupler height is when the trailer is level.

Etrailer.com has some great info for hitch adjustment.
Old 05-20-2013, 02:51 PM
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Default leveling Trailer

Quick and easy with out all the math, I've towed all my life over steep mountain passes,in Snow & Ice durring Winter as well as summer.
The secound guy who replied is right level out the trailer or even 1 hole nose down angle is about right. then put as much as reasonable pressure on the load leveling bars and you'll be ok. or you can do all the math and you'll come out with about the same setup.
Old 05-20-2013, 05:48 PM
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Thanks for the information. When the trailer is unconnected and level the ball on the truck is sitting 3 1/2 inches higher then the trailer connector. I will lower the ball to the same level as the trailer as see if that fixes it as per the instructions. Can't believe the trailer place got it so wrong.
Old 05-21-2013, 10:48 AM
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remember the rear of the truck will still go down as you put weight on it that is normal. from where the ball is in the picture I would lower it 2 holes on your hitch.
I also have a about the same size trailer, and I tow alot in winter on snow and Ice alot and it tracks well behind My F150. I put the bottom bolt of my adjustable hitch in the bottom hole in the Bar. if you put your hitch in the bottom hole of the Bar it should be about right, if you turn the bar around. I have the same hitch on my truck. You hay have to go with a hole up depending on the weight of your trailer.

Last edited by Ecob01; 05-21-2013 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Cramer



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