hilld

If the 14 towed better with an addl 500lbs on the drive axle, maybe that is where you need to get this. More weight on the drive axle. Not sure if you can shift some more of the weight forward somehow. Get a fat opera singer for the back seat perhaps.

acdii

The GAWR on the rear axle is only 3800#, the 2014 was 4050. I was 250# over the GAWR when the entire family was in the truck.

hilld

Wondering if you might have wheel/tire issue. For example, if you are running 17's or 18's, how would it be with 20's (less sidewall) or run a higher load range sidewall tire. Do you have a buddy that might be able to help you out with swapping tires/wheels perhaps.

acdii

I'm running the actual tires and wheels I had on my 2014, which handled just fine, so I doubt it would be those. I do have a full set of 18" Goodyear LT's that I will put on before our next trip, just to rule them out, but my hopes are not high on that.

Running 20" Duellers @ 44 PSI, which what I had them at when I had the 14. Drove 3000 miles last year up and over the Rockies, through Utah, etc. and not once had a handling complaint. I really wish that truck did not get wrecked, and had I known how poorly the new generation trucks handled, I never would have bought one.

Cverstij

I'm running 20"s with 35" tires

acdii

Well, if anything the handling of the truck when empty is vastly improved. The springs really do help with curves and body roll when turning. Well worth it and very easy to install. Only need to jack up at one point, the left front spring shackle, not by much either, and both sides are easy to get to and install them.

Doesn't need a wheel alignment either. If there is a downside, it is that when coming to a stop the truck rocks just a little bit more as the springs compress and release.

VigII

I noted you're running the tires at the same PSI with ~<600 Lbs on the drive axle. What's the max psi on the Dullers? Maybe play with the drive axle tire psi?

I calculated the rear to front weight ratio for your 2 link '14 vs. '16 set up. the '16 is lighter in the rear by 12%. I spent time reading my owners manual after I got my '17 this year. IIRC, the towing section recommends adjusting the WDH bars to recover only 25% of the front wheel well rise, not 100%. Would it read the same for the '16 models too? That would change the weight distribution ratio considerably. Your front wheel well measurements posted on 9/02/2017 show you got back to ~100% with 2 links. This would support your feeling the set up is tail-light.

I don't recall if you said earlier that there's space between the axle and Sumo Spring when unloaded. Could it be that the Sumo Springs are not progressive enough (or maybe too progressive? ) and push back too hard when compressed? In my 09, I got the bounce until I installed Timbrens which eliminated any bounce once the bars' link count was dialed in.

Acdii - thank you for sharing your trials. I've towed 8,000 in my dump trailer and will be getting a TT soon. I'm learning from this info!

acdii

The drop on the rear is the same with or without the Sumosprings. I think the problem I have is not enough spring bar for the applicaiton. I am exceeding them. Last year the TW was around 700#, this year it is over 800#, and the bars are 800# bars. Technically I need to use 1000# bars for that weight, and could very well be the root cause.

VigII

How much of your '16's payload are you using up, could stuff be moved into the TV? You might be right about the bars but your measurements are more than what my '17 OM says you should gain back. 800 lb bars worked before and got you to the 1.35 ratio. I went with axle ratio because the Al bodies have lighter GVARs than the steel bodies did, at least my last 2 trucks did.

* The '16 rig's TT is 200 Lbs heavier than the '14 rig was yet the '16 rig's gross weight is 300 lighter. That's nearly a 500 lb loss before you added the extra 200 lbs of stuff to the TT.

Cverstij

I have 1,000 lb bars and I'm slammed with Supersprings.