brulaz

Only thing I would add is sometimes you need to adjust the ball height again after the WDH is set up to keep the trailer level. Then check/adjust the truck's front/rear fender heights again.

jerrybizzle

So how about with air bags? Get it level and setup then add the air?

brulaz

That's how I would do it. But no real hands-on experience here.

jerrybizzle

Nice. Only towed my new trailer a few times and still getting it dialed in.

jml79

Not sure but I would think get the front levels where you need them (makes sure the WD hitch is doing it's job) and then add air to take any rear sag out but you shouldn't need them much with a WD hitch. I have always seen airbags used more on trucks towing 5th's and gooseneck where you can't use a WD hitch.

JMHO

Franny K

It looks like I have a very similar trunion system just mine has kind of a hump near where the chain goes for some anti sway stuff if I ever think it is necessary. Draw tite which is owned by the same entity as reese but has some downloadable instructions just like came in my box on their website.

The Ford manual has you measure wheel wells note the change in the front and then make it half. My front measurement changes such an insignificant amount even though the rear falls so I kind of have to do something else. Usually with the regular cab and 8' bed I have about half a load but as close front as possible, though the same seemed true once when essentially empty. The number of links of chain will vary with the height of the trailer frame and the ball socket position relative to trailer frame. Mine is adjustable on the trailer in two inch jumps and the shank in 1 1/4 inch jumps. I think the four link or maybe 5 link is a minimum as things shift around as you make turns, go over uneven surfaces tilt wise perhaps as well.

The origonal picture in this thread probably needs the socket for the bars rotated. The snap up brackets should have the chain hooked on about 90 degrees from where they end up snapped up. So that leaves you with the strength of the bars to adjust, three choices 600, 800, 1200 but each has a useful range, the 1200 is 600 to 1200, draw tite any way. You have what you have so unless you buy different bars you can adjust the head angle and the arc of snap up. Let me also say you have the holes used in the shank as well as flipping the shank over for vertical adjustment. Without rereading the instructions again to make sure I will state the bars are supposed to end up pretty parallel with the trailer frame. There was some chart about how to set things based on trailer frame height and vertical ball socket location, and something else, but that didn't work out too great for where I ended up.

It is also kind of an issue the way I see it with the instructions telling you to keep modifying the bar socket angle (and holes in the shank used for vertical adjustment) depending on what and how heavy it is loaded but they give you lock washers that bite in and make a burr of sorts to lock. I switched out my stock bolts for longer ones so that only non threaded part is in the hitch parts, use a few flat washers (which might need trimming on one side) and double nuts for locking. Hopefully that didn't violate the instructions.

njdevil

My 2 cents You need at least 4 links of chain from bar to frame for ease of turning if not damage "MAY" ocurr