kbroderick

I'm moving to Maine in a couple of weeks. I just acquired a 7 x 16 cargo trailer and will be Tetrising all of my stuff into the trailer and my F-150. I had hoped to get a slightly larger trailer so I could avoid putting anything with significant weight in the truck, but the guy with the 7x16 trailer was interested in trading for my snowmachines, so logistics and financial reality won over ideal. Trying to figure out what the best WDH option is given that I'm on the low end of trailer weight for needing one (SWAG of 5k pounds), but I'm assuming that I'll need to have 13-15% tongue weight for reasonable handling and thus need a WDH to make the truck behave.

I'm planning to sell the trailer (and presumably the WDH) after getting to Maine, so a clamp-on setup is probably preferable. I'm trying to resist the urge to cheap out, because even a relatively nice anti-sway WDH (like the Blue Ox BXW 0750 or BXW1000) is still worth the money if it means I don't need to find somewhere to stop and change my shorts after the combination gets squirrelly in traffic. The only enclosed trailer I've towed previously was a much smaller single-axle trailer behind an E350 dually box van, and aside from backing up, the only concern there was whether or not it was still attached, because I couldn't see it while driving in a straight line and the 7.3 didn't really behave very differently with or without the trailer. I expect this to be a rather different experience, and spending $600 to make it less stressful and mitigate the risk of solid waste meeting ventilation devices doesn't bother me.

With a guesstimate of 5,000 pounds of total trailer weight, do I go for the BXW1000 or the 0750? 15% of 5000 is 750, so if I'm low on my weight estimate, the BXW0750 probably isn't going to be enough according to the ratings. Unfortunately, I'm not going to know the real trailer and tongue weights until I'm loaded up, and I can't wait until then to order a WDH.

FWIW, this is my weight estimate:
2,680 pounds — empty trailer
​​​​​600 pounds — approximate weight, BMW R1150GS
260 pounds — approximate weight, KTM 525 EXC
150 pounds — guesstimate, 26" Craftsman toolbox, very full
250 pounds — winter wheels & tires (18" FX2 rims w/Nokian LT2 275/70/18)
250 pounds — five totes of books (estimating 50 pounds each, weighed the first one at 45)
350 pounds — motorcycle, camping and ski gear (14 18-gallon totes, first one weighed in at 25 pounds)

That's 4,530 pounds, and I'm pretty sure I'm not overestimating. I've also got a moderate-sized, commercial-grade desk, and some other miscellaneous garage stuff that I'm really hoping I can Tetris in. If I can get skis in on top, that would be even better, but I'm not sure that's going to work (if it does, I'll definitely be over 5k, as I've got about 250-300 pounds of skis and bindings).

So I'd appreciate recommendations: do I order the WDH with 1,000-pound bars, or do I go with 750-pound bars?

("Do what everyone who saw the Ford commercials would do and just hitch it weight-carrying" is tempting but seems likely not a good idea).

kbroderick

Oh, and photos of the trailer tongue, in case I'm overlooking something that is going to complicate a WDH install:


I think that the 29" ball-to-bracket distance should just about work out without moving the breakaway system box.

l3rian

I have an 18 foot by 8.5 foot trailer I bought for my move. My trailer was just over 5k loaded. I pulled it around 1200 miles from NC to Iowa. Then back empty, and am heading back for the second trip next week. I did cheap out and bought the harbor freight WDH. I don't have any experience towing with any other WDH, so I can't compare, but it towed great. Empty, there was a slight bit more movement when big rigs would pass, but it was predictable and easily managed. I've driven rental cars that were pushed around more when they pass. Properly loading the trailer is the key.

Good luck with everything.

l3rian

Also, I would think the battery would need to be relocated with just about any WDH you choose.

smokeywren

You want the TW rating of the hitch to be more than the most TW you might have. If you might have more than 750 pounds of TW, then get the 1,000 pounds TW hitch.

You adjust the tension on the spring bars to handle the actual TW you have. Measure the distance from the front fender well to the ground without the trailer. Then tie on the loaded trailer and adjust the spring bars to lower the front fender to the same distance to the ground as when without a trailer. When you get done with the spring bars tight, the floor of the trailer should be level front to rear, and the front fender well should be the same distance from the ground as without a trailer. You may need to unhitch the trailer and move the ball mount up or down on the adjustable shank to result in a level trailer when all hooked up. Because you must adjust the tension on the spring bars with chain lengths, you may not be able to get the distance from the ground to be exactly the same with the trailer as without the trailer. In that case, you want a slight rise in the front fender, not a drop.

Don't worry about whether the tow vehicle is level. Just get the front fender well right, with the floor of the trailer level, and you'll have the WD hitch tuned in right.

It's a terrible idea. For two reasons, 1] The front axle of the tow vehicle will be light, causing handling problems. 2] You won't have any built-in trailer sway control, and trailer sway can ruin your day.

Your choice of a Blue Ox Sway Pro is a good one. Good weight distribution and very good sway control. Price $625.37 from Amazon =
My 7x14 cargo trailer came with ST205/75R15C tires. Not enough weight capacity wiggle room for hauling a trailer full of stuff across the country. I want at least 20% more tire weight capacity than the trailer's GAWR, and more than 20% is okay if the mounted tire will fit in the wheel well. So I replaced the tires with Maxxis ST225/75R15E and that meant replacing the trailer wheels with 6" wide wheels. Then several multi-thousand miles trips from Texas to the west coast and return with no trailer tire problems. I hate trailer tire problems! Been there, done that.

Be sure to repack the wheel bearings on the trailer before you head out. Use nothing but the best wheel bearing grease and then hand pack the bearings with that good grease. You can use a wheel bearing packer gizmo if you aren't expert at repacking wheel bearings using just your hands. - But don't chicken out an use just a grease gun if you want to make it to Maine without burning up a trailer axle. Been there, done that too. Cost me three days to order and receive and install a new trailer axle out in the middle of nowhere east of Phoenix. But at least I had enough tools and jacks with me that I could get the job done. The KOA I crippled in to was not happy that I had to work on the trailer in their RV park, but I made it without getting thrown in jail.

kbroderick

A bit of an update:

I did purchase a BXW1000, and I'm hoping to install it tomorrow. The hitch ball I used to get the trailer home is only rated for 6k, so I figured I might as well spend the $17 and get one rated for 15k to go on the WDH...which now may end up costing me more, because the SOB needs a 1 7/8" socket to tighten the nut (to 450 foot-pounds, too). I'm going to check the local auto parts store for such a socket tomorrow, but I think the most likely outcome is I show up at one of the local auto shops and ask politely if they can please put the ball on the hitch head for me.

I think the brackets will clamp on to the trailer arms successfully, but it's going to be damn tight and I won't be 100% sure until I get everything together and line up the load bars (it will be tight). The battery box is not in the way, but one of the attachments for the cord is, and I'm going to need to acquire a double-square bit so I can remove said wire routing (I also need it so I can get at the plate-light wire).

I've currently got about 1840 pounds of my stuff (including motorcycles, tools, and a fair bit of garage stuff) loaded, for a total theoretical trailer weight of 4,520 pounds. I have yet to load any books, my desk, or any of my skis (which, since I've got 16 pairs of them, will add some weight), so I'll definitely be over 5k gross on the trailer. Right now, I'm feeling pretty good about volume; hopefully I'll still feel that way later this week as more stuff goes in.

I wish we had truck scales in town, but I don't think I'll be able to get on any until Saturday at the earliest (the nearest CAT scale is about 50 miles, and I haven't been able to verify the rumors of a third-party scale open to the public closer).

l3rian

My local land fill let me run across the scales free of charge. I did 3 runs. Truck, truck and trailer, then truck with the WDH installed. They didn't mind and I even dropped the trailer out of the way without any issues.

kbroderick

Unfortunately, we don't have a local landfill. The closest one is actually further than the nearest CAT scales.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Rent one from U-Haul... one way

jeffinthebag

I saw it's a 7x16. Hopefully is a dual axle if not the tongue weight could be pretty high. Definitely get it weighed. It will be more than you think usually. Perfect example, my bedroom set which was a bed, 2 dressers, mirror and 2 small night tables came in at 980 lbs according the shipping weight and that's with out a mattress or box springs. Items add up very quickly.