PerryB

Don't believe everything you read on the Internet. You run the risk of damaging/cooking the rear differential if you dont give it some break-in time before putting a significant load on it. I think if you read the owners manual (imagine that) you will find that explanation.

Wannafbody

Maybe consider adding the Hellwig rear swaybar for more stability.

zx12-iowa

So you have theory (don't believe everything you read on the Internet). I have real world experience... Just saying...

smokeywren

Amen!

Boat people often claim the laws of physics don't apply to them. Probably because it's difficult and more expensive to comply with the towing rules when towing a boat. And especially a heavy boat on a cheap trailer.

Tongue weight should be a minimum of 10% of gross trailer weight. If boat and trailer grosses 5,600 pounds, that means you need a minimum of 560 pounds of tongue weight - plus the weight of the weight-distributing (WD) hitch. Ford (and almost every other OEM) states you need a WD hitch for any tongue weight more than 500 pounds. 560 pounds tongue weight is more than 500 pounds, so you need a WD hitch.

If your boat when loaded on the trailer has less than 10% tongue weight, then you need to move the boat forward on the trailer - or back up the trailer axles on the trailer to put more of the weight of the boat in front of the trailer axles. Yes, decent boat trailers have moveable axles that you can achieve 10% or more tongue weight. If your trailer is not so equipped, that just means you bought a cheaper trailer than you need for that big of a boat.

If your boat trailer has a pole tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, that's no excuse to not have a WD hitch. You just have to buy a pole tongue adapter for a WD hitch. Like this one:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...se/RP3280.html

So if you want to make the roads safe for my grandkids, then be sure your boat trailer has at least 10% tongue weight, and if that tongue weight is more than 500 pounds, then be sure you have a WD hitch.

PerryB

Obviously you are smarter than the people who designed and engineered these trucks.

Twrexx81

My apologies fellas...kinda new to the heavy tow game and didn't realize a boat would tow different than a TT, but any advice would be appreciated....leaving next week for a full tour of the state's pulling my TT.

5.0GN tow

I am going to disagree with you Smoky in a very respectful manner. I trust the engineers who design the trailers for modern boats to know their job, much the way you seem to want us all to trust the emgineers at Ford.

A boat the size of his or even mine is usually paired by the manufacturer with a specific trailer and positioned on it to support the boat in a specific way. You can't just move it forward, the keel and stringers of the boat require support at specific locations to not damage the boat. The power units of the boat are all in the stern and required to clear the trailer, you can't just move it around. These are not lightweight boats with removable outboards. The boats sit down in the trailers, and they don't sway even with 5 to 7 percent hitch weights. I have been towing boats for over 30 years, and can tell you they tow very safely with light hitch weights, not to mention most have surge brake couplers that preclude using many WDH set ups. Not all trailers tow like a travel trailer or equipment trailer.

WestsydeGuy

Boats are generally a lot easier to tow than most trailers.
They have a lower center of gravity, more aerodynamic, and now araysbon top quality trailers.
A measly 5600 lbs is nothing for these new f150s.
Stop worrying and go have fun.
My 9400 lb boat tows much better than my 3000 pound less tt ever did.
I also tow a lot and i mean a lot of trailers for work.
I have also towed a lot of boats.
Cross your safety chains, plug in the wires, latch the hitch and throw a padlock on it and go.
If for some reason you decide to try sliding the boat ahead or back as some have suggested consult a professional first.
The hull and trailer need to be set up properly and not just some hack sliding it around. If your boat dealer was even semi professional it should be good.
Ps. The 10 percent weight idea on the hitch is not carved on stone either.
My boat and trailer weigh 9400 with a half tank of gas....so plus or minus a bit as fuel load changes since it hauls a lot of gas.
My tongue weight is 617 lbs on a certified scale.
I do not use a weight distribution hitch of any sort, just a 2 5/16" ball.
It has zero issues with sway or anything else.
I run max rear tire pressure on the truck and go.
I have pulled a 2200 pound trailer that was a beast to tow.
The damn thing was all over and towed horrible.
It was supposedly a hook on and go no issue trailer by rpod.
The thing was all over the damn place even behind my big f350 it was horrible.http://www.forestriverinc.com/produc...elID=1392#Main

WestsydeGuy

Great post!
Thanks for bringing common sense to the paranoia thread.

Feathermerchant

I was going to ask what kind of brakes.....
If hydraulic surge be sure they work. A leak can put them out of business fast and you won't get a warning light like in your truck. Also, I'll bet the trailer is wider than your truck so be careful around turns and thru construction areas. Also be sure to carry a jack, wrench and a spare. A compressor wouldn't hurt either. Trailer tires typically run 50 lb or so. At least mine do.