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My Towing "Build"

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Old 09-05-2017, 11:46 PM   #1
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I'm about to throw my hat in the ring! We put a deposit on a new-to-us 2011 Heartland 23TBH trailer and should be picking it up this Saturday. We have been hunting for a trailer with a queen bed, "larger" fridge, and at least 2 bunks, while also being as short as possible. We found it This one comes in at 25 feet including the tongue. Weighs about 5k pounds dry with a GCWR of just under 7k pound. I expect that we will be around 6k pounds loaded up, give or take. The overall weights will be right in line with the payload of our truck

We have been towing a pop up camper for a few years and are definitely excited to upgrade. I have an Equalizer hitch standing by, so first order of business is to get that hooked up on Saturday. The trailer isn't too far away, so I really plan to just use the basic starting settings and will measure the front suspension weight transfer and bring it home. I'll get it fully dialed in once it's home and see how it tows before deciding if any upgrades / mods are needed.

Will add some pics when I can.
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Old 09-06-2017, 01:01 AM   #2
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Head for the scales with a full fuel tank on the way out on your first camping trip. It'll tell you if the load and the WDH are properly adjusted. Happy camping!

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Old 09-06-2017, 12:54 PM   #3
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I agree with Atwowheelguy and think I got the spreadsheet from him. It helped greatly in my set up. I did make a couple changes to the view of the spreadsheet, but it still computes the same data.

Equalizer has a good video showing proper set up with the fender measuring method. It all boils down to setting the bars to return the front fender to the original, unloaded height and making sure the trailer is completely level. I did this method and below are the results:


Last edited by clarkbre; 09-06-2017 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 09-06-2017, 01:21 PM   #4
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Not to hijack but can I get a copy of this spreadsheet? Im in the market as well and having this would be absolutely fantastic to help me figure out whats viable and what isn't.
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Old 09-06-2017, 05:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaJab View Post
Not to hijack but can I get a copy of this spreadsheet? Im in the market as well and having this would be absolutely fantastic to help me figure out whats viable and what isn't.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwA...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:11 AM   #6
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So quick question. I seem to recall seeing someone say to set the hitchball on the WDH at ~1" higher than the trailer socket as a starting point. The instructions from equalizer say to set it equal to the height of the socket.

Is there a specific reason for possibly setting the hitch ball higher for these trucks?
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:10 AM   #7
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Nope, it must be specific to the type of hitch then. The Equalizer hitch has a fixed head, where others like Husky and Reese have adjustable heads. Those are the ones that say to put the ball 1" higher. Maybe the fixed heads are different? Never installed one, so can't say.

I know on my truck, with the 1" rise, when the trailer is on, and fully hooked up, the truck is down 1 1/2" but the trailer is level, so if the ball were equal in height to the trailer, then the trailer would not be level when hooked up, but an inch lower.

I prefer having the travel trailer level while towing for the sake of the Refer. They don't like being out of level and can be damaged if used out of level for any length of time. Something to do with how the Ammonia chamber heats up, if out of level, then it can get a hot spot and cause damage. While short tows wouldn't be an issue, if you have a long trip of 10-16 hours before parking and leveling, then it could eventually have an issue. Could, not saying it would, but if you can drive with the trailer level, why take a chance.
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:19 AM   #8
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I believe out Blue Ox said 1" higher than the trailer coupler when trailer is level. I assumed that accounts for a little sag in the suspension naturally.


Shockingly, the BO kit we have allows up to the equivalent of a 2" drop. We thought our trailer rode higher. We would need actually a 3-4" drop to set up the hitch as recommended. We drag leaving the driveway as is. makes it thought to justify doing that. Im sure if we had more drop, we could probably add another link of transfer with the hitch without the nose coming up too high
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:19 AM   #9
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Not sure what you mean by "fixed head"? The Equalizer hitch is adjustable in terms of angle by adding / removing washers to adjust the angle. I agree with aiming to tow with the trailer being level, or at least very close to level erring on the side of slightly nose down if needed.

My understanding is that the trailer will go nose down when you first drop it onto the truck, but then it should come back towards level (to a degree) when you apply the weight distribution? I think my plan is to set my hitch ball at the level of the socket and then raise on the shank to the next hole up. So it should sit just a bit higher than the socket as a starting point.
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:34 AM   #10
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I must have it confused with a similar type that uses a fixed head then.

No clue why they would have the ball equal in height then.

Maybe it's the Blue Ox that has the fixed head.
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