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One thing to check is if the WDH is properly adjusted and to see if any part of the truck is overloaded. It takes three passes across the scales to get the whole story.
Once with with everything hooked up.
Once with the weight distribution bars removed and placed in the bed of the truck.
Once with the truck only with the weight distribution hitch removed.
Then you can determine if the truck is overloaded, if the WDH is properly adjusted and how much the tongue weight is, including the hitch.
Even with everything adjusted properly, wind and the "bow wave" off a truck acting on a trailer that long can move the truck around. Hensley Arrow and ProPride hitch owners say those eliminate wind induced sway.
My trailer is 27.5' overall at 6820 lbs. I tow with P tires and the basic round bar WDH with one friction bar. I get a slight push when the trucks pass, but nothing to get excited about.
Not knowing what kind of WDH the OP has, it is a bit difficult to say exactly what the issue is, but as pointed out by others, the rear shocks are the #1 reason for poor handling. Sway is caused by too much momentum in the rear of the trailer being transferred forward to the TV.
Before you do anything, get the truck and trailer weighed properly, with and without the bars hooked up, and get a tongue weight as well.
When properly setup, assuming it is a round bar with external sway bars, winds against the trailer will move the entire rig as one, not push the nose of the truck the opposite direction but in the same direction. My trailer is a 7100# GVWR with a husky round bar with one sway control bar and it towed very well, very predictable with passing trucks. I am hoping my 16 tows as well. Already have 5100's all around, and same wheels/tires that were on my 14, so I know how they handle.
When properly set up, and within weight specs, no additional springs, helper bags, or whatever are needed for the truck to handle properly, those are just band aids for an overloaded, or poorly setup rig.
Have you towed with your 16 yet to make the comparison? This seems to be the topic.
I did a short 6 mile trip and it seemed OK after flipping the shank to drop the ball. Trailer is level, but I may have a little too much spring since my front drops an 1/8" lower then unladen. I am taking a trip this weekend with a full FWT, so that added weight may be enough to counter the springs. The short trip was @60 MPH and no noticeable odd handling, it tracked straight, and rode well. Once I get on the Interstate doing 70, then I will know if the truck tows the same, worse or better.
I did a short 6 mile trip and it seemed OK after flipping the shank to drop the ball. Trailer is level, but I may have a little too much spring since my front drops an 1/8" lower then unladen. I am taking a trip this weekend with a full FWT, so that added weight may be enough to counter the springs. The short trip was @60 MPH and no noticeable odd handling, it tracked straight, and rode well. Once I get on the Interstate doing 70, then I will know if the truck tows the same, worse or better.
Yeah the Interstate is the real test, looking forward to hearing your review. Like I said earlier I corrected my condition but it included the high price Propride and LR-E tires. BTW my wife did not notice any difference in the ride quality with my new Toyo LT HT's for everyday driving, I run them at 47 psi when not towing; 55 rear, 50 front when towing.
As a minimum, your WD hitch should list for around $1,000 and be available online for around $600. Good WD hitches with built-in sway control incude Equal-I-Zer, Blue Ox SwayPro, Husky Centerline HD (not TS), and Reese Strait-Line. Husky and Reese also make cheaper hitches, so don't buy one of those brands unless it's a Centerline HD or Strait-Line.
1,100 pounds max hitch weight, you want the hitch rated for 1,200 pounds TW.
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About to purchase the Husky Centerline TS due to the trailer being a rental and can't drill into the frame. Why do you think the TS is not a good hitch? I am looking for weight distribution, sway control, no drilling required, and hopefully $300 or less since this is not my trailer. Found the TS for $301 plus free shipping. Thanks.
Yeah the Interstate is the real test, looking forward to hearing your review. Like I said earlier I corrected my condition but it included the high price Propride and LR-E tires. BTW my wife did not notice any difference in the ride quality with my new Toyo LT HT's for everyday driving, I run them at 47 psi when not towing; 55 rear, 50 front when towing.
The verdict is, the 2016 does NOT tow as well as the 2014 did with the same setup. Up to 65 MPH, no problem. Above that, especially above 70, the trailer wags its tail. I tightened the single sway bar as tight as it will go which helped. I will drop th head one more hole and tilt it forward. If that doesnt make it handle like the 14 did then looks like a new WDH is in the picture.
On the power side though, so much better with 3.55 vs 3.15. No more drone from being in 4th. It stayed in 5th lockup for the most part, only unlocking uphill, and held the speed well.
I guess I got lucky. I bought trailer tires at Discount Tire that are rated to 81mph. Necessary for Texas with 75mph speed limits.
PITA
The maximum speed for a towing vehicle in Texas is 70 mph -- on the interstate -- unless posted otherwise. Under code 545.352, that's only in the daytime; it applies to passenger vehicles and light trucks pulling small trailers less than 26 feet long, carrying a boat, motorcycle or animals. For such small trailers, the nighttime maximum is 65 mph. For other kinds of trailers, such as fifth wheels, the maximum daytime speed is 60 mph, and that maximum drops by 5 mph at night.
07-17-2017, 11:46 PM
