etrailerTeam

The sort of friction sway control humbleRB describes is what I'd refer to as an 'entry level' approach to resisting trailer sway. As he found, on trailers longer than 25 or so feet long, 2 of the units are necessary. One thing many folks don't know about these older type friction units is that it's recommended that the tension be taken out of them when used on slick or icy pavement.

As mentioned earlier, if you're looking for a better-than-average system that works great at combating trailer sway, is mechanically simple, and easy to set up and operate, you can't go wrong with the Equal-i-zer brand name. Their customer support is nothing short of amazing, and on several occasions, they've sent out small parts that have come up missing for my customers free of charge. Pretty rare these days.

Do NOT trust your RV salesperson to set up or recommend a weight distribution system for you. We've seen many many occasions where folks have RV's fresh off the lot with the wrong system (rated too low or high) or a system that's incorrectly dialed in. Read the instructions yourself. Disengage the system and reset it from step one. You should also know the fully loaded and ready to tow tongue weight of your TT. This weight should also include any gear stowed in the tow vehicle behind its rear axle, be it coolers, generators, hitchhikers, whatever.

For the unsure, this article further explains how weight distribution/anti-sway systems work:

https://www.etrailer.com/expert-82.html

acdii

The Husky Centerline TS is a lower cost version of the Equilizer system and appears to be quieter. It is on my list if my recent adjustments don't fix the issue on my 16.

Deerchaser

A little hint from Husky engineering. 1-5" A-frames, use 2 washers to tilt. 6-10", use 3 washers.

mass-hole

I have found that drivers of other brands of trucks(mainly Ram 1500's) are far less cautious about these things and could probably use the full 11 minutes.

I spent a bit of time on the Ram Ecodiesel forum when I was considering buying one, and unlike the two Ford forums I frequent, a lot of times the first response to a "Can I tow this?" thread was absolutely, these trucks are under rated. Granted, the Ram's payload and axle ratings are kinda pathetic compared to Chevy and Ford, but they dont bat an eye at overloading their trucks.

I also cant tell you the number of times I have seen a Nissan Titan, Tacoma or Ram 1500 towing trailers out into the National forest behind my house with no WDH and the hitch practically dragging on the ground. I know they are climbing up I80 out of salt lake city, which is like playing Mario Kart, banana peels and all. I am honestly surprised people dont get killed more often. I rarely see Chevys and F150's like this. Occasionally but not nearly the frequency of the others.

Simnut

I think I may add helper air bags on my truck. Not to handle the down sag which I don't have...but more for the sideways tilt aspect of driving my truck with the trailer. They should help also with no load on the truck...smooth out the ride. I hope! I have a bad back...the smoother I can make the ride..they better!

Correct me if I'm wrong! I'm of Dutch blood, don't wanna spend if I don't have too!

Apples

Hahaha... point taken. Too funny... and ironic.



Yeesh.

Thanks for your report. It IS appreciated.

Apples

You are outdone by Yorkshiremen. They are incredibly proud of acquiring this or that "for NAUGHT!"... It's as if it were a necessary mark of manho0d or something. At least they're very good-natured about it.

Simnut

Touche!!!!!!

Mike Up

Adding any sway control shouldn't matter if your rig is getting blown around as one unit. Now if sway is the result of being blown around, then yes. But if your rig is being blown as a single unit, sway control makes no difference. What does, is a heavier truck so that it's not blown around as easy, and LT tires so that the truck doesn't rock back and forth on it's tires soft flexible sidewalls. A LT tire has more plys and is much stiffer so that the tires sidewalls don't flex and rock back and forth.

That sucking is a result of side winds blowing on your rig. A steady side wind blowing on your rig will result in you countering it through the steering wheel. As soon as a semi passes, it blocks the wind and then your added resistance on the wheel makes it feel like you're being sucked in until the semi passes and the wind starts pushing on you rig again.

Now if this causes you to swerve back and forth, you could start sway from that motion but you will still get blown around or 'sucked' in even with good sway control, as that is not controlled by anti-sway devices.

As far as sway, the newest version of the Blue Ox Sway Pro is a favorite at rv.net. Previously the Equalizer brand and Reese HP Dual Cam antisway devices were the 2 favorite but many of us have switched to Blue Ox Sway Pro and like it much better. I had the Reese HP Dual Cam system (Strait-Line) and find the Blue Ox Sway Pro a much better hitch system for sway control and function.

Siskiyou

I'm not sure what you mean sideways tilt but if you are talking about the truck leaning into a corner the sway bar may be a better option. I put a Hellwig sway bar on my 02 Silverado and this 16 F150 and they are great to improve handling although I'm not sure how much with the trailer. I put the Air Lift 2000lb. bags on this truck also, I found it improves the handling with the trailer the most if I add only about 30 - 35 lbs. which raises the rear with the trailer attached about 1/2" and just makes for a much more solid tow experience. The bouncing is much reduced and it doesn't bottom out which is what it felt like it was doing before, there is still some sway I need to work on. I find the bags stiffen the ride when the trailer is not attached so with your bad back you may not like more than the minimum pressure.