Anthony Vasquez

Hello all, I have a 2 inch leveling kit on a 2019 3.5L with max tow pkg. I'm using a Reese WDH model 49903 with friction sway control. I just got back from commercial scale today and my TT loaded up (except water) is 7180 lb. Tongue weight is 880 lb. When I hookup there's a sag I'd like to get rid of. I'm wondering if I should look a new weight distribution system, bump stops, airbags, or is there something else I should consider, or something I missing? I also have a few other questions.

1. When calculating tongue weight, do I need to have the truck fully loaded, e.g., people, or just anything I plan to haul behind my rear axle, which would be nothing?

2. I currently attach the second chain link of the spring bars to the bracket on my WDH. Could I attach my third link and get better weight distribution? I already raise up the jack once the ball hitch is attached to get the second link. I'd need to raise it even more to get to the third.

3. I'm looking for the better sway control, currently I have the friction bar that came with the WDH. I'm not too thrilled about replacing the WDH since I just bought it but I will if there's no options where I can use both my WDH and another better sway control system.

Thank you!!

Deerchaser

I would replace the WDH, shouldn't need or use air bags with a WDH. Equalizer 4 is very popular, I use a Husky Centerline TS, it's ok for being cheaper. I drop 3/8" on the front and 1/2" on the rear with a 6k load. Gear in your truck would be deducted from the payload as would the tongue weight. Whats the rating on your current bars? 1200 would be good

jeffinthebag

I'm old school and was always told a 2 inch dropped in the rear is the right way of doing it. It preloads the suspension and it adds the proper weight to the rear. Leveling the rear when hitched up is a no no.
Return the front with WDH to approx the same height and if the rear is 1 to 2 inches sagging, it's set up perfectly.

clarkbre

First, whatever I am about to say is not to knock you but kind of explain what's happening.

Addressing the rear sag with a leveling kit:
Had the truck's front end been left stock height, the rear likely wouldn't be sagging with the trailer hitched. Raising only the front of the truck 2" will make the rear appear sagging when loaded. The leveling kit did its job and leveled your truck....when empty. If the front is stock and you load say 1000 pounds in the bed, the truck would sit level....albeit lower all round. To get rid of the sag when the trailer is hooked up there's really only 2 options: 1 remove the leveling kit. Or 2 add airbags. Option 2 will introduce a whole new set of issues. The inflated airbags will exert more force on your rear axle and potentially make it overloaded. Also, in order for the WDH to work properly, the WDH needs to be set when the airbags are at a specific psi and you must always have them set at that when towing. Deviating from that PSI will completely change the dynamics of the WDH function.

1. When calculating the hitch weight know both the tongue weight and anything behind the rear axle. The specific WDH instructions will tell you which to use. Generally, knowing the tongue weight is enough as weight added to the truck from the rear axle to the tailgate will have less effect than 880 pounds a foot past the rear bumper.

2. Adding more tension will change how effective the WDH is. That being said, if your not sure how effective it is now, how will you know what the 3rd link is doing? Measuring 3 times at the truck scale will tell you how the current settings are working and what adjustments will be needed

3. I don't know that there's another method of sway control besides what you have or a sway control integrated into the hitch. The equalizer 4pt or the husky centerline ts are both very good, simple hitches that would provide constant sway control at a relatively low cost. The husky centerline ts can be had on Amazon for about $300 total. In your case, you'd need the 800-1200 pound rated hitch.

Overall, it sounds like there are 2 issues that need correcting. 1 sway and 2 sag. I'm not sure either would be totally corrected with your current hitch. Using a different hitch may get you closer; however, you still need to know your weights.

For setting up and adjusting, I found this spreadsheet very helpful: Truck and Trailer WDH Spreadsheet

Anthony Vasquez

Hi, the current rating of my spring bars is 1000 lb. I'm thinking about that Husky TS or the equalizer 4, since I keep hearing about both those hitch systems.

Anthony Vasquez

Clarkbre thank you that info. I know that removing the leveling kit is an option, I just wanted to see if anyone had been successful with a level ride with it on. I have no problems taking it off it it comes to that.

I'm lucky enough to have access to a rarely used commercial scale at the base I work on so I can spend all the time I want there hooking and unhooking. So are you saying I should try attaching to the third chain link and get my tongue weight then? As it sits I'm at 12% of my TT weight, which I thought was a good ratio?

Regarding the airbags, are you saying that if I went that route, I would inflate before attaching the WDH and trailer and see where I'm at through trial and error? And once I've found the sweet spot, notate that PSI and use that from then on?

I'm considering putting my WDH up for sale and investing in one of the two you mentioned, since I hear so many good things about both them. Thanks for the link but it took me to a blank page?

clarkbre

No. I'm saying that if you're just connecting the WDH and haven't measured the front fender return via a measuring tape or more accurately a scale, you don't know the hitch. You're trying to bake a bat h of cookies but only eyeballing the ingredients. If you measure, you'll know the desired results. As far a 12% tongue weight, you're perfect. That's right where it should be.

I'm saying that if you initially set your WDH with 50psi in the bags, you need to always run 50psi in the bags. If you lower it to 25psi or raise it to 75psi you will change how the WDH is working and affect its effectiveness. The bags will help with the sag but then may have negative results on the hitch. For every action, there's an opposite reaction.

A new hitch would help resolve the integrated sway system; however, it won't necessarily correct the excessive sag.

No matter what, start with weighing your truck and trailer the 3 different ways to see where it sits currently, then, make small singular adjustments until its dialed in.

acdii

Clarkbre pretty much nailed the answer on this one. The reason the truck is tail high is so that when properly loaded it levels out. Leveling the truck defeats this, and when loaded the truck is lighting the way for comets.

Check out Blue Ox as well. It's what I have and it works great. Easy setup, get the ball height correct, and find the proper link and done. My truck is perfectly leveled when hitched up.

One thing to consider with air bags that got glossed over. They apply downforce directly on the axle and are meant for loads in the bed or directly over the axle like a 5th wheel. The downside is that when transferring weight that is sitting 4+ feet behind the axle, the force is still there, and makes it difficult to properly distribute the load forward and aft. It messes with the leverage of the WDH and can be a real pain to get correct.

There are other means of carrying weight on the axle, Sumo springs and Timbrens are fixed rate springs meaning they don't use air for adjustment, but compress under load. They are much easier for setting up a WDH, but I can't tell you if it will eliminate the sag you are getting with the lift. What I can tell you is that once you have the WDH set with the Sumo or Timbrem, it wont change hookup to hookup like it can with the bags.

Brad34

All good advice here. Just remember you should not be adding any weight to the front axle when you use a WDH. You are actually returning weight.

If I remember correctly, the center of my front wheel wells are 38" from the ground with no trailer hooked up. Once hooked up to my Equalizer, I'm at about 38 1/8. The closer you can get to that unhitched number, without going under, the better.

acdii

I found using the Ford OM setting which is about 1/4 to 1/2 or so of the returned height, the tow handled like crap. Returning it to 100% fender, pretty much like this, the trailer towed beautifully.