Loaded Car Hauler Tongue Weight?
in the house
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,136
Likes: 1,973
From: Kansas
Quit overthinking this...you simply need to load it up and go. Waaaaaaaaaaaayyyyy too many posts that over-analyze this issue, but they will never stop as people never listen, lol. You have a large truck, trucks haul things like car and utility and cargo trailers. It's not like your hooking up to a 10,000 gravel trailer, you know? Good to ask intelligent questions like you have...just go do it.
5 Year Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 9,077
Likes: 3,206
From: Kentucky
Get four 6" carriage bolts. There are holes in the trailer ramps that you can slide the bolts through to keep the boards in place on the ramps so you don't end up in one of those loading idiots videos. You only need to drop them down through the holes, no need to put a nut on them.
I got two 12ft boards and cut them down to 8ft. Set the boards about 2/3 of the way up the ramps. Cut the rest of the boards into 6x12 pieces to support them. Between the pieces and a set of jack stands, I supported the boards at three points each. It was pretty solid driving up on the trailer, very little flex in the boards.
Don't forget to lower the wheel arch before driving up!
I ran a strap through the rear wheels because I had to drive through Dayton and Cincinnatti. If you hit a section rough enough to put that chain into play, it's going to damage the driveline or frame. It also won't prevent the rear from shifting left/right if you get into some mildly rough sections. If you can, strap down the wheels so the rear is exactly where it was when you loaded it.
I wrapped a section of moving blanket around the rear frame cross bar, wrapped the chain around that, then wrapped a bungee around them a few times so the chain wouldn't move around.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 80
Likes: 33
From: Valdosta, GA
A hitch does not know if a WDH is being used or not, but it does feel a difference in rotational force placed upon it by the draw bar. This is where the weight carrying Vs weight distributing ratings come into play. When you are weight carrying, all the weight of the tongue is placing a force on the receiver tube that tries to rotate it around the crossbar it's welded to in a clockwise direction (from a driver side perspective). When you engage WDH arms, the trailer frame is pulling upward on them, providing force in a counter-clockwise direction.
Through rotational action, weight is traded for force, pushing it to the front axle of the vehicle and the trailer wheels. The tongue still weighs what it weighs, but some of that weight no longer pushes down on the hitch, it's been traded off via leverage and is being transmitted through the frames of the vehicle and trailer as a rotational force rather than dead weight.
So, your hitch has been spec'd to handle 500lb trying to twist it in one direction. The reason you can have more weight when weight distributing is because having a WDH keeps that twisting force to 500lb or less by providing a counter force. Ex. If you put a 500lb trailer tongue on a vehicle and counter it with 200lb pulling up on WDH arms (total), there is only a 300lb of rotational force on the hitch.
Our hitches have two class ratings, III for weight carrying, IV for weight distributing.
Through rotational action, weight is traded for force, pushing it to the front axle of the vehicle and the trailer wheels. The tongue still weighs what it weighs, but some of that weight no longer pushes down on the hitch, it's been traded off via leverage and is being transmitted through the frames of the vehicle and trailer as a rotational force rather than dead weight.
So, your hitch has been spec'd to handle 500lb trying to twist it in one direction. The reason you can have more weight when weight distributing is because having a WDH keeps that twisting force to 500lb or less by providing a counter force. Ex. If you put a 500lb trailer tongue on a vehicle and counter it with 200lb pulling up on WDH arms (total), there is only a 300lb of rotational force on the hitch.
Our hitches have two class ratings, III for weight carrying, IV for weight distributing.
Quit overthinking this...you simply need to load it up and go. Waaaaaaaaaaaayyyyy too many posts that over-analyze this issue, but they will never stop as people never listen, lol. You have a large truck, trucks haul things like car and utility and cargo trailers. It's not like your hooking up to a 10,000 gravel trailer, you know? Good to ask intelligent questions like you have...just go do it.
If you've not done this before:
Get four 6" carriage bolts. There are holes in the trailer ramps that you can slide the bolts through to keep the boards in place on the ramps so you don't end up in one of those loading idiots videos. You only need to drop them down through the holes, no need to put a nut on them.
I got two 12ft boards and cut them down to 8ft. Set the boards about 2/3 of the way up the ramps. Cut the rest of the boards into 6x12 pieces to support them. Between the pieces and a set of jack stands, I supported the boards at three points each. It was pretty solid driving up on the trailer, very little flex in the boards.
Don't forget to lower the wheel arch before driving up!
I ran a strap through the rear wheels because I had to drive through Dayton and Cincinnatti. If you hit a section rough enough to put that chain into play, it's going to damage the driveline or frame. It also won't prevent the rear from shifting left/right if you get into some mildly rough sections. If you can, strap down the wheels so the rear is exactly where it was when you loaded it.
I wrapped a section of moving blanket around the rear frame cross bar, wrapped the chain around that, then wrapped a bungee around them a few times so the chain wouldn't move around.
Get four 6" carriage bolts. There are holes in the trailer ramps that you can slide the bolts through to keep the boards in place on the ramps so you don't end up in one of those loading idiots videos. You only need to drop them down through the holes, no need to put a nut on them.
I got two 12ft boards and cut them down to 8ft. Set the boards about 2/3 of the way up the ramps. Cut the rest of the boards into 6x12 pieces to support them. Between the pieces and a set of jack stands, I supported the boards at three points each. It was pretty solid driving up on the trailer, very little flex in the boards.
Don't forget to lower the wheel arch before driving up!
I ran a strap through the rear wheels because I had to drive through Dayton and Cincinnatti. If you hit a section rough enough to put that chain into play, it's going to damage the driveline or frame. It also won't prevent the rear from shifting left/right if you get into some mildly rough sections. If you can, strap down the wheels so the rear is exactly where it was when you loaded it.
I wrapped a section of moving blanket around the rear frame cross bar, wrapped the chain around that, then wrapped a bungee around them a few times so the chain wouldn't move around.
I have a 5k lb 16' strap I could throw through the rear wheels. I also have a 5K rated strap with D-rings on each end, totaling about a foot in length. It's specifically meant to wrap around frames or cross members to ease wenching. So I'll use that for the safety chains.
You guys are awesome, Thanks a lot!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,269
Likes: 1,359
I see you are in Texas. Cheap trailers there. When in the military I bought for a move from Oklahoma to California. Made well over a grand when I sold it. It's worth your while to check trailer prices where you are vs where you are going. With craigs list you could have it sold before you get there.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 80
Likes: 33
From: Valdosta, GA
I see you are in Texas. Cheap trailers there. When in the military I bought for a move from Oklahoma to California. Made well over a grand when I sold it. It's worth your while to check trailer prices where you are vs where you are going. With craigs list you could have it sold before you get there.
I've searched for some trailers. Online they're showing about $5500 for a base model trailer. Most companies dont have any in stock. I am also military and that's why I'm moving. I plan to stop by Uhaul this week to talk to them in person and see if my set up will be okay. If they wont allow it hopefully I can buy a trailer locally. I'm moving to Georgia where everything is cheaper, so I doubt I'll even be able to break even. If I can't find a trailer then I'll have to pay to store the car here and eventually fly back to pick it up. I hate taking it on long trips, especially on these horrible Texas roads. They're no good for a lowered car! I've been here 2 years, and I've put less than 1500 miles on it since then.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 80
Likes: 33
From: Valdosta, GA
Apparently Penkse doesn't let you rent their car haulers unless it's to be towed by their trucks. I also looked into buying a Penske trailer. The rep called back and said there's only 2 in the country for sale right now. Neither was near me. Budget trailers are the same, you have to pull them with their trucks.
Worst case, I have to store my car, fly back, and drive it separately. After all, I've only put 3300 miles on it in the last 3 years. 1100 of that was from my last move.
5 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2,641
Likes: 1,339
I see it's a Mustang GT so I understand why your not having Uncle Sam move it for you. My son had his beater moved from Guam to Aviano, Italy then back to the states. We laughed that the car had more mileage on a transport of some type than actual road miles while he owned it.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 80
Likes: 33
From: Valdosta, GA
Uncle Sam wont move a vehicle stateside for you. They will pay you mileage and per diem to drive though. But, only for one vehicle. I have 4. I will trailer my motorcycle (which Uncle Sam will move as part of your household goods weight). Then return. For the actual move, movers will pack and move the majority of my stuff but there's a bunch of stuff they wont move which is also what I'm taking in the first trip with the motorcycle in tow. I had them move my motorcycle 2 years ago and I wasn't happy with how they did it. Plus, it weights just over 900lbs and cuts into my allowable weight. If I'm over my allotted weight (based on rank/dependent status) then I have to pay the difference. For the last trip, I will tow the Mustang (hopefully) and the fiancé will driver her car. I'm glad I'm only moving 1000 miles otherwise this would be even more of a pain.
It suck for those young guys with no disposable income, makes moving a lot harder.
It suck for those young guys with no disposable income, makes moving a lot harder.
Nope, I'm an E-7. There's nothing I'm overthinking other than getting told "NO" by uhaul. Then I would have to purchase a trailer myself which is mostly unavailable around here. I also have movers moving all of my stuff which means I'm not making any money other than mileage for driving, whether I'm towing my car or not. Can my truck make the drive pulling a trailer with my car on it? Yes. I have every confidence in it, especially after reading about people towing travel trailers that are heavier, taller, wider, etc. It was a big Uhaul branded store that said I would have to load it there for inspection purposes. Maybe if go to a small mom & pop uhaul place they wont make me load it there.
Apparently Penkse doesn't let you rent their car haulers unless it's to be towed by their trucks. I also looked into buying a Penske trailer. The rep called back and said there's only 2 in the country for sale right now. Neither was near me. Budget trailers are the same, you have to pull them with their trucks.
Worst case, I have to store my car, fly back, and drive it separately. After all, I've only put 3300 miles on it in the last 3 years. 1100 of that was from my last move.
Apparently Penkse doesn't let you rent their car haulers unless it's to be towed by their trucks. I also looked into buying a Penske trailer. The rep called back and said there's only 2 in the country for sale right now. Neither was near me. Budget trailers are the same, you have to pull them with their trucks.
Worst case, I have to store my car, fly back, and drive it separately. After all, I've only put 3300 miles on it in the last 3 years. 1100 of that was from my last move.
I know this because I just finished a road trip from New Orleans to Phoenix and picked up a PJ C4 18ft car hauler for under 3500 bucks outside Austin on my way back. Anyways, make a reservation online for a uhaul, pick up the car hauler and tow it away. They ask to have it loaded at their location tell them it’s not street legal. Simple as that. They have no business forcing you to load the car hauler on their presence. Good luck on the move! SEMPER FI!