Lets see your campers being towed
#4441
Here's our new 2017 Forest River Salem Cruise Lite 24QXBL on our first ever trip with it from this past weekend.
The 2.7 didn't have too many problems with it, but I babied it the entire way there and back...about 360 mile round trip.
The 2.7 didn't have too many problems with it, but I babied it the entire way there and back...about 360 mile round trip.
#4442
I agree somewhat with what your trying to convey, but I would like for people to do there own research on how manufactures go about and come up with the numbers they state. Usually the most limiting factor is what the numbers are based off, for example my Front and Rear Axel according to the sticker are rated at 4050, so that's 8100 but they yellow sticker in my door jam states 7350. When you dig in a little bit more in the number you see that the actual axels are rated at well over 5000 pounds, so if your using your logic I should be able to load my truck up to say 10000. Which is not realistic. When you do more research you see that the tires are rated at 2500 each but the wheels are rated at 2025 and thats they get the 4050 number. But it gets a little bit more complicated, the manufactures use a little bit of fairy dust to try to up-sell more truck. In my research the same exact truck in platinum skin with 20 inch rims rated at 2025 yields has 7700 GVWR instead of 7350 when it actually weighs a few pounds more with no logic offered in the difference between the numbers what so ever. So what am I getting at? Read, study, understand the numbers and tow with knowledge and confidence what of your actual trucks capability is. In my case I don't have a problem loading my truck up to 8000 or so without even blinking,, knowing that using even the manufactures numbers on the axels and wheels which already have a 20-25% safety margin built in I am good to 8100. To each there own but I don't like guys coming on here saying that the numbers in the door jam are the end all be all when it comes to towing, cause its not. YMMV
While I agree that the numbers don't fully make sense, how can my 2014 with a 4050 axle have a lower payload than my 2016 with a 3850# axle, but the point is, those numbers are what the law looks at. They are legally binding numbers, and if for some reason, an accident happens and it is your fault, and it was determined that you exceeded those numbers, the insurance companies will have a field day with you. Also to note, there are state troopers out there who can judge your weight just by looking at it, within 100#, and if one of those guys suspects you are overweight, he will make your day miserable! They can tell by looking at the interstate cameras prior to a scale too, especially in Nebraska!
Since the wheels I have on now came off my 2014 with a 4050# axle, that is the exact same axle that is now on my 2016 with the exception of the R&P and a reversed shock mount, that means I should have no problem loading it up over the GAWR and GVWR, after all it can handle it.
As I said, if you are going to put air bags on, don't do it thinking that you can increase the payload of the truck, do it for better ride and handling at the rated payloads and you will be fine.
Last edited by acdii; 04-24-2017 at 09:03 PM.
#4443
The following users liked this post:
WestsydeGuy (04-29-2017)
#4444
I agree somewhat with what your trying to convey, but I would like for people to do there own research on how manufactures go about and come up with the numbers they state. Usually the most limiting factor is what the numbers are based off, for example my Front and Rear Axel according to the sticker are rated at 4050, so that's 8100 but they yellow sticker in my door jam states 7350. When you dig in a little bit more in the number you see that the actual axels are rated at well over 5000 pounds, so if your using your logic I should be able to load my truck up to say 10000. Which is not realistic. When you do more research you see that the tires are rated at 2500 each but the wheels are rated at 2025 and thats they get the 4050 number. But it gets a little bit more complicated, the manufactures use a little bit of fairy dust to try to up-sell more truck. In my research the same exact truck in platinum skin with 20 inch rims rated at 2025 yields has 7700 GVWR instead of 7350 when it actually weighs a few pounds more with no logic offered in the difference between the numbers what so ever. So what am I getting at? Read, study, understand the numbers and tow with knowledge and confidence what of your actual trucks capability is. In my case I don't have a problem loading my truck up to 8000 or so without even blinking,, knowing that using even the manufactures numbers on the axels and wheels which already have a 20-25% safety margin built in I am good to 8100. To each there own but I don't like guys coming on here saying that the numbers in the door jam are the end all be all when it comes to towing, cause its not. YMMV
#4449
Junior Member
Here is mine from last year, 8400 dry weight, truck did fine pulling the trailer, I also had airbags to help a bit.
Bought the truck and trailer new last year, this was my first time owning a truck and a trailer. The only mistake I made is listening to the sales people telling me not to worry about the concerns I had about weight. I figure when all set up I was close to 200lbs over payload.
A week ago I decided to trade the truck for a bigger one, however I really liked the F-150 and everything the Lariat 502a had
Bought the truck and trailer new last year, this was my first time owning a truck and a trailer. The only mistake I made is listening to the sales people telling me not to worry about the concerns I had about weight. I figure when all set up I was close to 200lbs over payload.
A week ago I decided to trade the truck for a bigger one, however I really liked the F-150 and everything the Lariat 502a had