93Cobra#2771

iTrader: (2)

Air up those tires to max 45psi. As far as the pogo, you likely don't have the sprig bars tight enough on the WDH. Go to rv.net forum and the travel trailer section. There is a sticky showing exactly how to set it up correctly. Cliff notes - your front fender height should be around 1/2" higher than unhooked height with WDH engaged. I know these numbers as my old trailer was close to same weight. Don't worry about "looking level". Let the rear go where it goes. If you still experience pogo, then bags will tighten the rear up. Of course, there's always the chance you have too much tongue weight. You won't really know until you put it in the scales.

Seriously, read the sticky on rv.net. It's long but very helpful.

smurfs_of_war

A lot of guys are using bilsteins and monroe seems to be a popular brand on a lot of the towing forums. I use Rancho and I am happy with them. Just do some poking around on their respective sites and look for some that are tuned for light duty truck applications. That typically translates into loading and towing.

meaz93

Pump those tires up to at least 40#. Make sure your trailer is level with your truck. Then....get on Stage 3 Motorsports and order some air boots for the back. Best money spent for towing-period.

SultanGris

Maybe your tires or air pressure or just too light of trailer, I pulled a 1400 pound pin weight 5th wheel of around 9000 pounds total weight on 24 inch rims with zero issues with my f150. I still had plenty of suspension travel left, no bouncing.

Mike Up

We never use water when it's that cold, it's to much of a pain. We always find a spot closer to the bath house and use the campgrounds water. Even though those windows have drain holes, they do clog up. Also you do lose a lot of heat through the windows.

Not sure on your model but the pump intake hose is off of the fresh water tank drain hose for a reason. Most of the newer Jay Flights have "2" fresh water tanks so the 2 tank drain hoses are tied together, along with the pump intake hose, to create a header so that the 2 tanks can be used together with the one intake for the pump.

We have always camped in the 30s and low 40s, and never have used the water systems. It's just not worth the hassle and expense fixing a ruptured tank, water line, pvc pipe or broken valve.

I have friends that use their campers to hunt and they don't use their water systems either. They do the same as me, and use either the campgrounds water. If primitive camping, they bring in water to use sparingly for cooking, and use a portable small tub for hand washing or sponge baths.

tony montana

My camper is the exact same thing as the picture in mike up's signature. Inside and out. Except mine is a avenger not a Jayco. Tell it's made by the same company thou. I have been trying to post a few pics with my phone of it hitched to my truck and setup the way I have everything but can't fiqure out how to do it

Mike Up

Avenger is a Prime Time company brand. Prime Time is owned by Forest River which is a competitor to Jayco. They're very similar but not the same.

Here's the Avenger 26BH:




Here's my Jayco Jay Flight 26BH:


Both are very similar but with slightly different floorplans.

The forum software is corrupt as it won't post pics. You can do it manually by adding [img] in front of the pic link, and [/img] behind the pic link.

normiss

LT tires was the single best upgrade to towing a big camper. No pogo since.
Shocks helped some, but truck tires are where the answer is.

Eric0508

We stay right on state land, so there is no bath house or campground water lol. The new campers with winter/thermal packages are pretty well insulated, Jayco claims they are good down to 0 degrees. I understand why Jayco put the water pick-up where they did, it allows the maximum water usage as its right by the drains. But from a cold weather perspective it would be much better to have the pick-up line inside the camper where it wouldnt freeze. If the tanks are connected, it doesn't matter where you draw from. I'm going to run a line down from the top near where the fill line goes in, right in the center of the tank.

thiggins

I went thru the exact same issue with my setup. ( My tongue weight is over 350 pounds. Go figure.)

1. Your passenger radials have to go. You should get some LT tires, which have STIFF, multi-ply sidewalls. That will help a bunch with the bouncing, but you will see an overall "stiffer" ride, and lower MPG probably (tradeoff).

2. Add the hellwig anti-sway bar. It ties both sides of the suspension together, and lets BOTH shocks work together better. MUCH improved ride and handling overall. ( Ford should have included a dang anti-sway bar from the factory, or made it an option. )

3. Get rid of those cheap factory rear shocks. I installed the Bilstein 5100's on the rear (only). Another good improvement, but not that drastic. (Very easy to do yourself.)

4. I also added the hellwig leaf spring helpers. They are kind of "progressive" in that they kick in more the higher your load is. I like them.
They also firm up the ride a bit and make the truck feel more "stout".