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So here is my setup taking the camper, dry to the storage today. Went to 8 links in the block and there is def a little bow to the bars hopefully you can see it in the pics. Front wheel well height before hookup is 38” and after its 37 3/4” so I’m thinking with a loaded camper i may even need to go to the 9th link to even the load out. How does this look now compared to the earlier pic where I was 9n link 7. The last pic is to show the tt is level and I took readings from front to back and all were level so I believe the ball is in the right placement too.
Here's how mine looks. 8 links hanging and 3.5 links showing from rotary latch to spring bar. I have 1000 lbs bars. My tongue foot is down, but is not on the ground, There's a couple of inches between the foot and road.
Trailer is a 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH with a dry delivered weight of 5050 lbs and a loaded weight around ~6500 lbs.
Here's how mine looks. 8 links hanging and 3.5 links showing from rotary latch to spring bar. I have 1000 lbs bars. My tongue foot is down, but is not on the ground, There's a couple of inches between the foot and road.
Trailer is a 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH with a dry delivered weight of 5050 lbs and a loaded weight around ~6500 lbs.
so my sticker on the camper says 5800lbs which from what I understand is the delivered weight and we travel light, no water and such and two small bikes, wood etc in the truck bed so I guessed total travel weight of the tt at 6800 again that’s prob an overestimation so that would put my two at 884lbs so I’m thinking I may not have the tw for the 1500lb bars. At some point I figured my tw to be 1050 so I went with the 1500Lb bars but even in the bo manual there’s a q/a which says if u have a rough ride which is what I’d call what we did just bumpy that to heavy of bars could be the prob.
so my sticker on the camper says 5800lbs which from what I understand is the delivered weight and we travel light, no water and such and two small bikes, wood etc in the truck bed so I guessed total travel weight of the tt at 6800 again that’s prob an overestimation so that would put my two at 884lbs so I’m thinking I may not have the tw for the 1500lb bars. At some point I figured my tw to be 1050 so I went with the 1500Lb bars but even in the bo manual there’s a q/a which says if u have a rough ride which is what I’d call what we did just bumpy that to heavy of bars could be the prob.
If you have a nice dealer, perhaps he could lend you the 1000 lbs bars and you could test them.
Or you could load up your camper, as most do, with a full 90 gallons of water (at least mine), and all the gear, food, clothes, and so on, and see what your 1500 lbs bars will feel like then.
Going by your trailer weight, the 1000 lbs bars seem more reasonable but your trailer may have a heavy tongue weight. Maybe you should weigh your tongue.
If you have a nice dealer, perhaps he could lend you the 1000 lbs bars and you could test them.
Or you could load up your camper, as most do, with a full 90 gallons of water (at least mine), and all the gear, food, clothes, and so on, and see what your 1500 lbs bars will feel like then.
Going by your trailer weight, the 1000 lbs bars seem more reasonable but your trailer may have a heavy tongue weight. Maybe you should weigh your tongue.
i see even in your pics with a lighter tt your bars have more bow to them at least comparing your closeup to mine.
i see even in your pics with a lighter tt your bars have more bow to them at least comparing your closeup to mine.
Yes, before when I had 4 1/2 chain links (instead of the current 3 1/2 links) showing between the rotary latch and spring bar, I had some mild sway at high wind gusts of 40 mph. Not so much with less or no winds. Plus the trailer was nose down, and truck sagged a bit.
After putting the chain links to 3 1/2, I've had absolutely no sway even in 50 mph gusts, and the truck handles better with a more level combo. Amazing what 1 link can do, but while actually distributing more weight back to the front from that extra link, it also bowed the springs more and gave me the bow I needed for proper sway control.
Also following Blue Ox's recommendation and turning off my F150 electronic sway control may have also made it better. I remember previously with my 2012 F150 and it's Reese Strait-Line (HP Dual Cam) system where some hairy sway situations came in with winds over 40+ mph and engaging the truck's electronic sway control. Most likely the 2 systems fighting each other as Blue Ox stated.
Yes, before when I had 4 1/2 chain links (instead of the current 3 1/2 links) showing between the rotary latch and spring bar, I had some mild sway at high wind gusts of 40 mph. Not so much with less or no winds. Plus the trailer was nose down, and truck sagged a bit.
After putting the chain links to 3 1/2, I've had absolutely no sway even in 50 mph gusts, and the truck handles better with a more level combo. Amazing what 1 link can do, but while actually distributing more weight back to the front from that extra link, it also bowed the springs more and gave me the bow I needed for proper sway control.
Also following Blue Ox's recommendation and turning off my F150 electronic sway control may have also made it better. I remember previously with my 2012 F150 and it's Reese Strait-Line (HP Dual Cam) system where some hairy sway situations came in with winds over 40+ mph and engaging the truck's electronic sway control. Most likely the 2 systems fighting each other as Blue Ox stated.
3 1/2 links
O
4 1/2 links
So you went up a link and that relieved your issues? I’m thinking next trip go up to 9 links in the block increase the tension and see if that doesn’t help otherwise if it’s the same or worse my guess is my tw is lower than I think and the 1500# bars are to heavy and I’ll have
to go to the 1k bars since my tw Is prob lower than I predicted originally. The other thing I notice is your hitch is set at the 3rd and 5th holes mine is set at the 2nd and 4th holes and maybe that’s an issue for me too although per my measurements I was actually a bit low when hooked up at the tongue not high.
So you went up a link and that relieved your issues? I’m thinking next trip go up to 9 links in the block increase the tension and see if that doesn’t help otherwise if it’s the same or worse my guess is my tw is lower than I think and the 1500# bars are to heavy and I’ll have
to go to the 1k bars since my tw Is prob lower than I predicted originally. The other thing I notice is your hitch is set at the 3rd and 5th holes mine is set at the 2nd and 4th holes and maybe that’s an issue for me too although per my measurements I was actually a bit low when hooked up at the tongue not high.
We are both at the same settings with 3 1/2 links showing between the spring bar and the bottom of the rotary latch. I originally was at 4 1/2 links but pulled it up to 3 1/2 for better weight distribution and more arc on the spring bars.
If you are at you optimal weight distribution with 3 1/2 links showing, pulliing up to 2 1/2 links may take to much weight off of your rear axle even if it gives you the needed arc/bend in the sping bars you need for sway control.
You may need to go to the 1000 lbs and see how those bars work for you. Very simple as you just switch the bars.
I will say that my 2012 F150 had a weaker suspension that the new 2016, and is the reason I went with the Blue Ox because my Reese Strait-Line WDH/Sway system didn't offer 1000 lbs spring bars so I had 1200 lbs spring bars. They worked good for the 2012 but couldn't be adjusted correctly for the stronger rear suspension of the 2016. I needed 1000 lbs spring bars but the Strait-Line system only uses 800 lbs bars and 1200 bars, which I have both sets for different trucks/trailers over the years.
My 2016 F150 is 5110 lbs and has a 3800 lbs Rear Spring rating. My 2012 F150 was 5768 lbs and had a 3850 lbs Rear spring rating. 2016 F150 is much lighter in weight but has nearly the same rated springs as the 2012 F150.
Interesting, was just the opposite with me, my 14 with the same trailer I had 800 pound bars on a RB Husky and it worked incredibly well, but on the 16, didn't, and had to go to 1500 pound BO to get it right. The 16 also has a lot more squat than the 14 did, nearly double. That 14 was a great truck.
Interesting, was just the opposite with me, my 14 with the same trailer I had 800 pound bars on a RB Husky and it worked incredibly well, but on the 16, didn't, and had to go to 1500 pound BO to get it right. The 16 also has a lot more squat than the 14 did, nearly double. That 14 was a great truck.
My 2012 had a lot more squat than my 2016. In fact, even without the spring bars with the trailer hitched up, the truck doesn't look that bad.
You must have got that Lariat Leaf Spring Option that gives you a luxury car ride while taking away all capacity.
My 2012 with 7350 lbs GVWR and a 1582 lbs payload had rear springs rated at 3850 lbs. The 2012 had a weight of 5768 lbs.
My 2016 with 7000 lbs GVWR and a 1890 lbs payload has rear springs rated at 3800 lbs. The 2016 has a weight of 5110 lbs.
My 2016 while being much much lighter, has only a decrease of 50 lbs. Going by review Magazines weigh percentages. Most F150 4WD Crew Cabs with 5.5' beds have a 52% weight ratio on the front axle and a 48% weight ratio on the rear axle. Given so, my 2016 F150s 3800 lbs rear axle would be equivalent to my 2012 F150 having around a 4100 lbs rear axle instead of it's 3850 lbs rear axle.
Both my 2012 XLT and 2016 XLT F150s are configured exactly the same except my 2016 has rear view camera (2012 had audible warning), 2016 has 4" Sync Entertainment display (2012 had basic Text Sync), 2016 does not have Chrome Package but has Black Side Steps (2012 had Chrome Package), and 2016 does not have rear sliding window (2012 had rear sliding window).
In the BO instructions it tells you to start with the 9th link from the top, (opposite from the U bolt), in the latch and adjust from there. I use the 9th link, when towing my 7600# enclosed car trailer and my front fender well rises only 1/2". I've recently replaced my winch, going to a bigger-heavier one and moved the spare tire to the front (inside) as well. This has added roughly 80#'s more to the front of the trailer. Before these changes I was at 980# TW, will need to check it again to see where its at now, may need to move up to the 10th link in the BO, which is a bear to latch in, gotta jack the trailer up almost to its max, or re-position the car in the trailer back some. Surprised BO recommends adjusting to the 10th link, as doing so, adds a half twist to the chain, which I assume is ok. We'll see.
05-08-2018, 06:29 PM
