How much weight does it take to squat the rear?
#21
Member
Thread Starter
You guys are pretty comical. We're not talking a 150 hauling 25k pounds here, we're talking under 10k lbs. But it's great to see that one person writes "severe overload" and from there on out it's a string of people trying to out-do each other with talk of negligence. Let me guess, the same people who also slow down when it rains for fear of spinning out or do 15 mph under the limit when the snow flies?
Trucks can handle more than their official rating with the proper operator, as that official capacity rating involves claims of warranty issues (like drivetrain failures on a truck maintained to a faulty factory maintenance schedule created by the marketing department, not the engineering department) and potential liability for people who exceed their own limits, not the truck's.
My 1984 GMC S15, 110 hp V6 with rear drums, spaghetti C-channel frame and no abs has a factory payload rating of 1500 lbs, or 54% of its dry weight, and I've had 2000 lbs in that truck without issue. The '04 F150 Screw, has a payload of ~1700 lbs, or only 28% of its dry weight. Even if I had a full ton in the bed, it's still only 33% of its dry weight, and well within the realm of realistic limits. An F150, loaded to its GCWR limit, will still accelerate, turn, and stop better than that GMC at half its limit, but that doesn't mean the GMC is unsafe, just not "modern." If you think that is gross negligence, you should really re-evaluate your common sense.
Yeah, the transverse angle iron in my trailer sagged, so be it, it won't hurt it. It's only a 3000 lb capacity trailer. That's the benefit of steel, it flexes well before it breaks. Your truck's frame flexes when you get in it and every time you hit a bump; flex in and of itself isn't bad. Stand against a brick wall, and I'll be able to measure your heart rate from 50 ft away, with a laser attached to the wall.
Thanks to those who provided some actual data; next time I do go across the scales, when the front-loader drops in a ton of crushed stone, I'll make sure to take a picture for you all, along with measure the sag. Once I get some data points, I'll even make a nice and pretty little graph so that in the future, folks can make a rough estimation of their loads without use of a scale, as most people just want/need to get a job done rather than tick off every box on an ISO:9001 checklist.
Trucks can handle more than their official rating with the proper operator, as that official capacity rating involves claims of warranty issues (like drivetrain failures on a truck maintained to a faulty factory maintenance schedule created by the marketing department, not the engineering department) and potential liability for people who exceed their own limits, not the truck's.
My 1984 GMC S15, 110 hp V6 with rear drums, spaghetti C-channel frame and no abs has a factory payload rating of 1500 lbs, or 54% of its dry weight, and I've had 2000 lbs in that truck without issue. The '04 F150 Screw, has a payload of ~1700 lbs, or only 28% of its dry weight. Even if I had a full ton in the bed, it's still only 33% of its dry weight, and well within the realm of realistic limits. An F150, loaded to its GCWR limit, will still accelerate, turn, and stop better than that GMC at half its limit, but that doesn't mean the GMC is unsafe, just not "modern." If you think that is gross negligence, you should really re-evaluate your common sense.
Yeah, the transverse angle iron in my trailer sagged, so be it, it won't hurt it. It's only a 3000 lb capacity trailer. That's the benefit of steel, it flexes well before it breaks. Your truck's frame flexes when you get in it and every time you hit a bump; flex in and of itself isn't bad. Stand against a brick wall, and I'll be able to measure your heart rate from 50 ft away, with a laser attached to the wall.
Thanks to those who provided some actual data; next time I do go across the scales, when the front-loader drops in a ton of crushed stone, I'll make sure to take a picture for you all, along with measure the sag. Once I get some data points, I'll even make a nice and pretty little graph so that in the future, folks can make a rough estimation of their loads without use of a scale, as most people just want/need to get a job done rather than tick off every box on an ISO:9001 checklist.
#22
Hrmm may need to keep an eye out for more reviews on this doodad.
Okay now that is an interesting gizmo, thanks for sharing as there are so many options out there it makes my head spin I'll have to keep my eye out for this review and get a real feeling how it really works for others and for $99 bucks that isn't too shabby.
#23
Dukedkt442 - The squat chart is meaningless to others. If you want to do it for yourself that's great. But there are about a dozen rear spring rates for the current F-150s. I guarantee my squat is very, very much different than yours. Others mentioned just some of the other factors that will throw off the "squat chart" and make it not applicable to others - I won't recap here.
Regarding legal limits - most if not all of us have exceeded a legal limit at one time of another. Most of us, as we mature, try to keep that type of thing to a minimum because as we experience more we realize the folly of our ways. I realize you aren't there yet. It takes longer for some than others and some never get there.
When others mentioned you being grossly overloaded, they are referring to the load on the truck and rear axle compared to the ratings. You may be well below GCVWR but I'll bet you're well beyond your GVWR and your rGAWR. You're right, the truck probably wont outright break. But you do have a responsibility to others. So if you're going to maintain your current attitude, I certainly hope you are traveling well below the speed limits. A short bed F-150 has horrible weight bias that gets worse when you load the bed and add a trailer. I'd love to see pictures of the set up with the trailer just to see how bad it is.
Simple fix - get a bigger trailer and put all the wood in the trailer.
Regarding legal limits - most if not all of us have exceeded a legal limit at one time of another. Most of us, as we mature, try to keep that type of thing to a minimum because as we experience more we realize the folly of our ways. I realize you aren't there yet. It takes longer for some than others and some never get there.
When others mentioned you being grossly overloaded, they are referring to the load on the truck and rear axle compared to the ratings. You may be well below GCVWR but I'll bet you're well beyond your GVWR and your rGAWR. You're right, the truck probably wont outright break. But you do have a responsibility to others. So if you're going to maintain your current attitude, I certainly hope you are traveling well below the speed limits. A short bed F-150 has horrible weight bias that gets worse when you load the bed and add a trailer. I'd love to see pictures of the set up with the trailer just to see how bad it is.
Simple fix - get a bigger trailer and put all the wood in the trailer.
#24
As I can't seem to be able to edit previous posts; the white oak is un-split, green. Most pieces in the trailer are 24" or greater diameter disks, 12-18" thick. The bed had ~12" diameter pieces up to 24" long, as I didn't feel like lifting anything larger up into the truck. My estimate is 5500-6000 lbs, but could be more.
Mostly, was just curious if there's any data on a "weight:squat" ratio out there. Don't have a pic hitched to the truck, just hitched to the tractor to move into the backyard. Made the little tractor pull a wheelie most of the trip, as its hitch is above the axle so it wanted to rotate!
Mostly, was just curious if there's any data on a "weight:squat" ratio out there. Don't have a pic hitched to the truck, just hitched to the tractor to move into the backyard. Made the little tractor pull a wheelie most of the trip, as its hitch is above the axle so it wanted to rotate!
#25
Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, really overloaded here... the responsibility is knowing how to control a vehicle, regardless of weight. Try and imagine the above trailer on that truck; trailer was loaded properly so that its center of mass was just ahead of the axle, so the truck didn't dive much. I guess years of having a CDL driving trucks and being an instructor of machines that would eat a 150 and spit out a pile of shiny crap are meaningless. Maybe one day I'll mature enough to make the roads safe those who drink the Koolaide... until then I'll keep doing what I'm doing, in perfectly safe fashion for those who actually know WTF they're doing. What I find funny is the acknowledgment that 1500 lbs in a 2800 lb truck is just fine (because the book says so!) yet that, or a few hundred more, with a trailer in a 6k lb truck is egregiously, offensively hazardous! I've even had to pass people! Outrageous! All this hauling even takes me through NYC! Oh, the horror!
A data chart wouldn't be meaningless; it'd work for me, or anyone with my style truck, as crew cabs are far from uncommon. Even beyond that, maybe somewhat useful to within 500 lbs. on various bed lengths. My main query was that an initial guess of weight had this thing being a dog hauling only 4k lbs, but subsequent estimations put it over 6k lbs, so I was curious from SCREW owners who actually work the snot out of their trucks. Still well within actual limits, not the published ones which are designed to absolve liability of the manufacturer when the lowest common denominator of driving ability screws up. This truck's got a Ford 3.73 rear... it's not breaking in my lifetime.
And thanks on the Bolens... it came apart last winter to every last nut and bolt for a full rebuild. Had to do a lot of metal patching, fixing worn rods/hogged out holes, and had to make a couple of belt sheaves.
Last edited by dukedkt442; 11-07-2018 at 08:56 PM.
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Bluewoo (11-09-2018)
#26
Senior Member
Is there a bridge near by?.......you know.....a troll bridge?
#27
Senior Member
Don't know why its a big deal, just do it, I do,I did,I have?
Osage Orange is very dense wood plus a 200 ibs topper. Top pic show all that was in my old Tundra and it was well over 2K and on the bump stops. Did it all myself and after another double hernia surgery I got a pellet stove, then bought a FORD!
Osage Orange is very dense wood plus a 200 ibs topper. Top pic show all that was in my old Tundra and it was well over 2K and on the bump stops. Did it all myself and after another double hernia surgery I got a pellet stove, then bought a FORD!
Last edited by Bluewoo; 11-09-2018 at 08:22 AM.