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How to cool an ecoboost

Old 08-20-2014, 09:23 AM
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I agree with Boulevard, while you work out options to improve cooling you should flush the fluids which were subject to extreme heat. Motor oil for example, would have already started breaking down and shortened the lifespan of effective cooling. Better get that spent fluid out and replaced in order to prevent any (further?) damage from the excessive heat.

As for the Ford numbers, sure you have a tow rating of 11,200 but you also have a payload rating of around 1600lbs (depending on trim). A 10k lb fifth-wheel toy-hauler probably has a 2K+ lb pin weight. So sure you're a bit under the tow rating, but likely WAY over the GVWR of the F150.

Last edited by xcntrk; 08-20-2014 at 09:25 AM.
Old 08-20-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by xcntrk
I agree with Boulevard, while you work out options to improve cooling you should flush the fluids which were subject to extreme heat. Motor oil for example, would have already started breaking down and shortened the lifespan of effective cooling. Better get that spent fluid out and replaced in order to prevent any (further?) damage from the excessive heat.

As for the Ford numbers, sure you have a tow rating of 11,200 but you also have a payload rating of around 1600lbs (depending on trim). A 10k lb fifth-wheel toy-hauler probably has a 2K+ lb pin weight. So sure you're a bit under the tow rating, but likely WAY over the GVWR of the F150.
However, being over the rear axle GAWR doesn't affect the cooling. I have a Wagner IC, towed my 9500 lb fiver up long mountain climbs in Wyoming and through 105 ambient climbs in the Texas panhandle on on to Albuquerque with no problem. I run Mobil One 5w-30 also. I think an aftermarket IC is your most cost effective solution and my experience bears that out.
Old 08-20-2014, 04:07 PM
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Your only other alternative, at least to me, is to install a functional reverse hood scoop. Installing after market this and aftermarket that is only going to give you marginal increases in efficiency but what you need to do is move more coolant (air) through that engine bay and across our coolers. Right now the air enters the grill, travels through your coolers, around the engine and than exits at the exhaust pipes. If you can create a second air path up and out of the hood than you may be able to increase the coolant flow (air flow) to the point that engine cooling is at least livable. Not to mention some of these scoops look pretty cool. The Raptor has 2 small side grills, maybe they can fit.


Another fix (maybe) is to install a different grill that is not so restrictive. I do not know if it is safe or even possible but try taking the grill right off and putting it back on when you get there.
Old 08-21-2014, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RedOne
So did the dash lights all light up or did it just get higher than you ever saw it before? or ???
If the truck gets too hot it should go into limp mode and reduce horsepower... maybe even stalling you out with that much weight and steep incline.
The transmission temp went from 220 to about 245, the water and oil temp gauges went from the normal midrange to far right as I said in 2 minutes or less. So I immediately pulled over.
Old 08-21-2014, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by xcntrk
I agree with Boulevard, while you work out options to improve cooling you should flush the fluids which were subject to extreme heat. Motor oil for example, would have already started breaking down and shortened the lifespan of effective cooling. Better get that spent fluid out and replaced in order to prevent any (further?) damage from the excessive heat.

As for the Ford numbers, sure you have a tow rating of 11,200 but you also have a payload rating of around 1600lbs (depending on trim). A 10k lb fifth-wheel toy-hauler probably has a 2K+ lb pin weight. So sure you're a bit under the tow rating, but likely WAY over the GVWR of the F150.
I was undoubtedly over the payload rating. (1730 lbs as the truck is a 7700 gvw rating) I'm not going to get into axle ratings, and lawyer speak etc.. So don't bother to educate me on what I am already aware of, just know that a 1972 Ford Courier had a 3200lb payload, think about it. My truck does have added 2500lb overload springs on the rear because my PREVIOUS toyhauler had about a 2000lb tongue weight. It tows much nicer if you have a stable rear.

The current toyhauler however has a tongue weight of around 1400lbs I would estimate. Empty tongue weight is 990 and I load one 700lb four wheeler completely aft of the axles and the other aft and directly over.
Old 08-21-2014, 08:17 AM
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I thought this was another Ice Bucket Challenge post.
Old 08-21-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by etcbrown
I was undoubtedly over the payload rating. (1730 lbs as the truck is a 7700 gvw rating) I'm not going to get into axle ratings, and lawyer speak etc.. So don't bother to educate me on what I am already aware of, just know that a 1972 Ford Courier had a 3200lb payload, think about it. My truck does have added 2500lb overload springs on the rear because my PREVIOUS toyhauler had about a 2000lb tongue weight. It tows much nicer if you have a stable rear.
Was making no attempt to educate you Chief nor be a weight cop. I'm simply highlighting the obvious point that other EB owners are towing above GVWR including SkiSmuggs and myself who both posted in this thread. Neither of us are having overheating issues, so you're either towing at some level WAY above GVWR (beyond what others are experiencing) or you have some unique situation going on with your setup. I was making an assumption it's the former due to the description of your load (Toyhauler).

Last edited by xcntrk; 08-21-2014 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Boulevard
Your only other alternative, at least to me, is to install a functional reverse hood scoop. Installing after market this and aftermarket that is only going to give you marginal increases in efficiency but what you need to do is move more coolant (air) through that engine bay and across our coolers. Right now the air enters the grill, travels through your coolers, around the engine and than exits at the exhaust pipes. If you can create a second air path up and out of the hood than you may be able to increase the coolant flow (air flow) to the point that engine cooling is at least livable. Not to mention some of these scoops look pretty cool. The Raptor has 2 small side grills, maybe they can fit....
I have a buddy that, after having installed a Rousch S/C on his ’05 Mustang GT, had engine bay overheating issues. In an attempt to alleviate the issue he tried a DIY fix by removing the foam seal from the rear underside of the engine hood, allowing the hot air to escape; sort of a “reverse” scoop.

However the undesired effect of the DIY was that the hot air was venting directly into the path of the cabin air intake at the bottom of the windshield creating a very warm cabin.

He promptly replaced the foam seal LOL!


Sorry, perhaps a tad off topic
Old 08-22-2014, 07:19 PM
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^^Not off topic and I like your buddies thinking. I think that a reverse scoop would direct air up and over the windshield since most scoops are designed to be in the center of the hood and not off to the side where the cabin air inlet is. That said your buddies example does show that the reverse hood scoop will help move air through the engine bay and should aid in cooling.
Old 08-23-2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by xcntrk
Was making no attempt to educate you Chief nor be a weight cop. I'm simply highlighting the obvious point that other EB owners are towing above GVWR including SkiSmuggs and myself who both posted in this thread. Neither of us are having overheating issues, so you're either towing at some level WAY above GVWR (beyond what others are experiencing) or you have some unique situation going on with your setup. I was making an assumption it's the former due to the description of your load (Toyhauler).
Apologies, I didn't mean to come across as a jerk. Was just doing a poor job of articulating that I am aware of the published limitations.

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