daleboot

Posted yesterday with some ? on F150 that I was looking to buy, everyone was a big help..... and pretty much right that I would not find what I am looking for. So starting this new thread more specifically about payload

Looked at several trucks that were a listed online with a payload package, several I looked at that had door stickers stating 1100-1200lbs, so I guess the adds were just wrong or is there multiple levels of payload package.

Does anyone know how many payload packages there are(looking at 2011-2014 and 2015-2018)as well what the differences are and what to look for?

Are they realistic ways for me to increase my payload safely? airbags, spring, etc

Couldn't find a GCWR listed on the trucks I looked at any idea where to locate that? Also if the add has the GVWR listed can I use that to determine payload or towing capacity without going to look at it?

THX again for anyhelp

Ricktwuhk

You cannot increase your payload. And, unfortunately, the only way to know payload on a new truck is to read the sticker. In a used truck, you should get it weighed as any mods made can lower payload.

Higher trims have lower payload due to weight of options.

smokeywren

For 2011 thru 2014, there are only three - standard, max tow, and HDPP. Max tow requires the 3.5L EcoBoost engine and adds about 500 pounds to the standard GVWR. HDPP requires 5.0L or 3.5L EcoBoost engine, and inreases GVWR to 8,200 pounds. Standard payload pkg and max tow pkg without HDPP includes 6-lug wheels, and you can spot the HDPP F-150s because they have weird 7-lug wheels.

For 2015-up, there is a 2.7L Payload pkg that brings the grocery-getter 2.7L EcoBoost chassis up to the weight capacity level of the 5.0L and EcoBoost regular payload, but nowhere near the HDPP. And the max tow pkg no longer adds GVWR.

"Sorry, Charlie," but the only way to increase GVWR (and payload) is to jack it up and run a heavier-duty truck under it. You can hide some of the symptoms of overloading with "airbags, spring, etc.", but you'll still be overloaded.

You won't find GCWR for a particular truck listed anywhere, but you can figure it out by using the Trailer Towing Selector tables in the Ford RV and Trailer Towing Guide. You posted a link to the towing guides yesterday, so no need for me to post it again.

Limit your search to only one choice of cab, bed (wheelbase), engine, 4x4/4x2, axle ratio, tow pkg, payload pkg, etc., then using the trailer tow selector tables, find the GCWR for a truck that has those specs, and you'll know the GCWR.

But don't kid yourself that GCWR is important. It's not. What's important is GVWR of the truck. If you don't exceed the GVWR of the truck, then you won't get close to the GCWR and tow rating.

daleboot

thx, I search that one out a bit more.... shocking how many ads around me are listed wrong on the engine, options etc. Like they just have some kid copy and pasting generic stuff from online. l

Im seeing a lot that say GVWR: 7350 lbs Payload Package or 350# payload package, but the stickers on most only says 1160 pounds, these are XL or XLT, but I do not see how the base could be 810# and that payload package only bringing it up to 1160.

tomt5078

The best way is to go on a diet and lose weight! If you and your family weight around 800 and loss 200 that's a lot of payload gained!!!!!

Blackbuzzard

Yes you can increase payload by reducing elsewhere.

Remove tailgate, spare tire, jack, back seats, and only fill tank to halfway point.

That'll get you an extra 400 pounds in payload.

acdii

Yep, it is called F350. Fighting that battle myself. I know at some point I will be getting a larger heavier trailer, but for now my truck works for everything I have. I know it will not handle anything more than I have, so I have two options when upgrading the trailer, look hard and find one with the same GVWR and payload,(yeah right), or get an F350 now, and in a few years can get just about any trailer out there that suits our needs.

Gladehound

Or some call it a used F250 gas if they're on a budget.

Do yourself a favor and don't buy a truck knowing it has less payload than you need. Also, if you plan to keep the truck a while, realize that needs change. So get a payload that covers what you need now with some buffer for the kids to grow or whatever your life may hold.

smokeywren

In my earlier reply, I didn't mention one obvious way. Payload capacity available for additional weight = GVWR minus the weight of the wet and loaded truck. So if you need additional payload capacity for hitch weight, you can get it by exchanging some of the less-important heavy items in the truck to free up payload capacity available for hitch weight.

Omit or remove the heavy options and accessories such as running boards, tailgate step, rubber bedrug, camper shell. Haul fewer people in the cab - they can ride in a separate vehicle. Move weight such as jacks and toolbox from the bed to the trailer. Only 13% of weight in the travel or cargo trailer translates to tongue weight (payload), but 100% of weight in the bed or cab is payload. So if you move 500 pounds of weight from the bed to the trailer, you gain 435 pounds of payload capacity available for more tongue weight.

On edit: I now see that Blackbuzzard beat me to that idea. It doesn't actually increase payload capacity, but it's a way to exchange less-important payload for more-important payload, such as tongue weight.

PerryB

I don't think the 3.5 EB is the only option. I have a '13 with Max Tow, 7700 gvwr and the 6.2. -- Standard 6 lug wheels.