TeamCurtis

I have a 2013 3.7 flex (supercab 4x) XLT and I'm looking at what my options are for a hitch and trailer connections.
I'm torn between a class III and class IV hitch. The only benefit of the 3 is that its pretty hidden except for the receiver. I plan on towing a small 16' trailer trailer, that i don't think would weigh more than 4,000 lbs even if all tanks were full and I wildly over loaded it.
How often are most people ever towing beyond a class III hitch? Should i just do the 4? The class 3 does goes up to 12,000 with a WD hitch.

Second is the plug(s). The truck does not have a tow package, but does have a 4 pole plug at the rear. It also has the plug behind the dash for the brake controller (which ill also be installing)
I'm a little confused between the blade and pole versions as well as their wiring.
These are two install videos I've found for the different plugs (videos at bottom of page). One seems to plug and play with splicing just two wires and adding fuses (#2). The other requires a full run to the engine bay and adding a breaker (#1).
I get that the pins wire in a different order, but the 7 pins do the same 7 things right?
#1
https://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.html
#2
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...150-37185.aspx (install video)

Or would this harness work without doing all the splicing and soldering?
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...YtZmxleA%3D%3D

TeamCurtis

please help...
i read in a review that while the harness is behind the dash some of the leads dont actually go anywhere. this seems odd (or wrong)

Jeff1024

It's a truck, why worry about hiding the hitch? To each their own I guess

As far as the brake controller check out this video. Same situtation as you, no Factory tow package but wanted to add a brake controller

TeamCurtis

he says in the video "if you have a tow package, the wiring is already in the truck" (min 1:16)

Jeff1024

Sorry didnt realize it was a 2013, I am more familiar /w the 2015+ which all came /w the wiring from the factory. Perhaps someone else can help.

seaeagle2

I have a 2010 your results may vary. Start by tracing the 4 wire harness from the bumper, around where your spare tire is, there should be a connector. See how many wires are on the front side of the connector. If there's 7 wires, you can just get a factory 7 pin harness and plug it in there. Then you need to figure out which relays and fuses you need to add under the hood to the fusebox/power center. I don't think you can use the factory brake controller unless your truck has the 7 pin harness from the factory.

TeamCurtis

I got the hitch on the other day and looked at the wiring while I was under the truck. There do seem to be 7 wires at the front side of that plug. I was considering splicing in to them, but would rather not cut wires if I dont have to. Ill look for a factory harness
I have a Tekonsha Primus IQ that plugs right into the factory plug up front.

Thanks for your help

Apples

Hey Curtis. Happy Holidays. I'm doing the same thing to my '16 XLT but using all Ford parts. Etrailer should steer you straight, though; they're a good outfit. I see you're already using a Tekonsha and that it plugs into your truck's harness is pretty nifty.

I don't have any part numbers for you (I barely found what I needed for my '16! harness-wise, and my local parts counterman, though helpful, has inadvertently thrown a few curveballs...). I have ultimately been saved by Steve @ Tasca Parts. He knows his stuff! so you might ask him for any appropriate harness.

I won't have my install finished for another couple of weeks, more than likely, but if you have to guess or determine your own wiring setup, you might simply use the wiring diagram that comes with your new 7-pin connector. It should be mostly standardized, and there should be a wiring guide embossed on either side of the connector's dust cover.

As for your question of using a Class III or Class IV hitch, here is my thought process: Since I'm using Ford parts, and since I'm not adding any further transmission fluid heat exchangers beyond the engine-coolant type already on the truck, since I don't really know if the 5.0 Tow Package (which I do not have) uses a larger radiator for additional engine cooling, etc blah blah blah... I'm sticking to my truck's basic tow rating, like yours (including the step bumper ball mount and factory 4-pin connector) of a maximum 5000 lbs trailer/max 500 lbs tongue and using a Ford Custom Accessories Class III receiver hitch.


I plan only on towing lightweight camp trailers.

smokeywren

That pig tail is all you need. But they make two different ones, so pay attention tp detail. If your F-150 has reverse sensors in the back bumper, then you need Ford part number 9S3Z-15A416-B.


Without the reverse sensors, then you need the same part number but ending in "A" instead of "B".


If you install that pigtail and all 7 pins work, then you're done. But if the trailer brakes or the "hot" wire that charges the trailer battery doesn't work, you may need to install more fuses/relays to make them work. New F-150s come with fuses and relays in the glove box that the dealer's PDI mechanic should install. But lots of dealers don't do a good job of PDI (pre-delivery inspection) and those fuses and relays don't get installed.


Test the 7-pin trailer plug at the back of the truck to be sure all 7 pins work. I've learned to always have a 7-pin trailer plug tester in the trailer so I can be sure all 7 pins work. That makes it easy to find a blown fuse or relay. Here's mine:
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/6562.html


Here are the 4 wires in a 4-pin plug:
1. Tail and running lights
2. Right turn + flashers + stop
3. Left turn + flashers + stop
4. Ground


Add these 3 to result in a 7-pin RV plug:
5. 12-volt "hot" wire for trailer battery charger
6. Trailer brakes
7. Auxiliary hot wire, not normally used, but sometimes used for trailer backup lights.

TeamCurtis

Thanks,
wired the BC last night, ordered the harness (A) today.

I really appreciate the help.