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Old 11-30-2017, 04:01 PM
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Default Here's a stupid question...

A couple of "facts" first.


1) A WDH does not change the tongue weight.
2) My hitch as a WC rating of 500/5000 lbs
3) WDH rating on my hitch is 1050/10500 lbs


Now, here is the question.


If the WDH does not change the tongue weight (in fact will add to it) why does my hitch work for higher weights if using a WDH and not without? The tongue weight stays the same.


If the hitch is designed to torque the weight to the trailer/front axles using a WDH, you would think it would also take the torque the other way also...allowing for a higher WC capability than stated. The only thing a WDH does is take weight off the rear axle. I don't need to take weight off the rear axle, I am within all weight ratings on both the truck and trailer.



The push and pull capability of the hitch remains the same whether using WDH or not. It's only the vertical weight that becomes an issue when trailering, right? So, if the tongue weight stays the same, why is the hitch rated for different weights depending on a WDH? (Not a second question...the same as before)


Ok, here is the second question


Those ratings on the hitch sticker (made for my Ford) are simply there to protect the Ford vehicle then? The V-5 testing number shows that this hitch is far more capable than Ford says it is. This is what leads me to believe it is Ford's way of putting the "scare" into buyers and take it easy on the trucks. I'm within all my weight ratings and measurement limits....what more do I have to protect? Ok...third question.....
Old 11-30-2017, 04:36 PM
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Just to add...I'm getting a WDH for my tractor/trailer setup. Don't know why I need it though as everything looks nice and level towing this rig.
Old 11-30-2017, 05:08 PM
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I dont think the weight carrying has anything to do with the back end of the truck falling off or anything like that. I imagine its a safety thing with regards to unloading the front axle.

Imagine putting 1000 lbs on the hitch of a RCSB 2x4. The distance from the hitch to rear axle is the same as my supercrew 6.5' bed, but I've got an extra 3 ft of distance from the rear axle to my front axle. The front end of an RCSB would probrobaly be floating.

This happened to me towing my Jeep Liberty on a penske car trailer behind a Penske E350 Dually box truck. I rear suspension was so stiff it barely squatted, but the hitch was so far behind the rear axle that the leverage unweighted the front tires a massive amount and i locked the tires up trying to come to a casual stop at a red light and ended up in an intersection.

Why ford doesnt vary based on wheelbase and truck weight is probably just a convenience thing, but thats my take.

Last edited by mass-hole; 11-30-2017 at 05:12 PM.
Old 11-30-2017, 05:21 PM
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It all about vertical hitch load. When you add a WD the hitch end of the bars add force upwards, the trailer end of the bars provides a lesser force downward because it’s distance away from the ball. The difference between these forces will decrease the downward load on the hitch providing lift which transfers weight to the front axles and rearward to the trailer axles. The vertical lift has to work against the TV weight and added hitch weight. This is why you see the shank sometimes angled upward if there is vertical play in the receiver. The amount of weight transferred forward depends on rear overhang length and wheelbase, rearward depends on ball to axle centerline.
Old 11-30-2017, 05:25 PM
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I agree with your thinking. The front fender well of my truck only goes up 3/8" or so when hooked to the trailer as above. Yes, I am taking some weight off the front end of my truck but minimal. My truck settles about 1 1/2 at the bumper which is more than at the fender well. This setup tows so well....I feel it's a waste to go with a WDH.



Like I said...I will take my WDH from my TT and set it up for the tractor/trailer. It will have to be changed (flipped) because of the type of trailers. I will probably purchase a WDH in the spring again for the TT as I'm not about to change the WDH every time.



Just confuses this old guy LOL
Old 11-30-2017, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 8100hd
It all about vertical hitch load. When you add a WD the hitch end of the bars add force upwards, the trailer end of the bars provides a lesser force downward because it’s distance away from the ball. The difference between these forces will decrease the downward load on the hitch providing lift which transfers weight to the front axles and rearward to the trailer axles. The vertical lift has to work against the TV weight and added hitch weight. This is why you see the shank sometimes angled upward if there is vertical play in the receiver. The amount of weight transferred forward depends on rear overhang length and wheelbase, rearward depends on ball to axle centerline.

Here is my dilemma. The trailer end of the bars pull up , therefore putting a "twist" on the ball towards the truck. This in turn presses the front end of the truck downward, right? To me....the weight is still being taken by the hitch...regardless of WHD or not, just shifted to the other end of the draw bar. Still within the hitch though. How much torque and weight is that hitch receiver really taking? In my mind, the same or more than if I went with a regular hitch. So, if it can take that...why can't it take the advertised WDH weight without the WDH? Only if a person can balance the setup and fall within weight limits (aside from hitch receiver "stated" weights).................
Old 11-30-2017, 05:50 PM
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I think I misunderstood your intention. are you asking why a trailer with a relatively light tongue but a high GVW needs WDH? Like if your tractor/trailer combo weigh 10,000 lbs but the tongue is only 500, why do i need WDH?

I am guessing it may be because when you hit a bump or brake it could cause the trailer to nose dive and then you have nothing to resist that load or appropriately transfer the weight. It may only be a momentary thing, but what if that moment is during an emergency stop and your front tires become useless.

I think an example of this is when I put my TT on my truck, and then over inflate my air bags. I did this the other day because I was in a back country site and had to drive out on a pretty rough road, so I disconnected the WDH but inflated the bags to keep the truck from bottoming out. When I go out to the main road I hooked up the WDH and forgot to let out the bags. I knew immediately because I could feel the back of the truck bouncing around since the WDH bars were undertensioned. I stopped up the road, let the air out of the bags, and the truck rode much better. Now when I hit bumps the whole truck and trailer felt more like one unit.

Last edited by mass-hole; 11-30-2017 at 05:56 PM.
Old 11-30-2017, 06:38 PM
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The forces from the WD bars are high but are transmitted through the ball. The result is the vertical load on the hitch is reduced by the additional upward force. It is a hard concept to explain and visualize and best represented by doing the math for some. Maybe try and think of it as the amount of load at the point of where the hitch attaches to the truck frame instead of right at the receiver tube. If the hitch is flexing it’s absorbing forces that should get transmitted to the frame which is bad. Some factory hitch/receivers are weak in this respect.

Last edited by 8100hd; 11-30-2017 at 06:43 PM.
Old 11-30-2017, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 8100hd
The forces from the WD bars are high but are transmitted through the ball. The result is the vertical load on the hitch is reduced by the additional upward force. It is a hard concept to explain and visualize and best represented by doing the math for some. Maybe try and think of it as the amount of load at the point of where the hitch attaches to the truck frame instead of right at the receiver tube. If the hitch is flexing it’s absorbing forces that should get transmitted to the frame which is bad. Some factory hitch/receivers are weak in this respect.

Am I wrong in thinking that the receiver still bears the total weight of the WDH and the tongue weight? If you think about it....the ball and hitch are twisted within the length of the shank (vertically) and the receiver. Regardless as to where that puts the weight (aka to the front), the receiver is still carrying the full weight of the WDH and tongue weight.



The weight twist down at the furthest rear part of the receiver would be lessened with a WDH. It would move this weight to more the center of the receiver "hole". But that is about it.
Old 11-30-2017, 08:16 PM
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I think you are confusing a strength rating with a safety rating. Like mom used to do; Ford is trying to protect you from yourself.

500lbs on hitch equates to ~175lbs off front wheels on your screw, which you probably wouldn't notice. But if hitch manufactures didn't post the limit, someone would put 1,050lbs on just a hitch on their rcsb, taking >500lbs off their front wheels. And 500lbs off front wheels is getting into exciting range. Making different placard for every truck wheelbase/engine drive train really isn't worth the cost of trying to keep track of the variables (and who knows were hitch might get moved to in future). Therefore, if tongue weight is over 500; WD hitch is required.

For the other number, hitch manufacturers don't want you loading so tongue weight is too low, so no 500lbs non/1,050lb WD tongue; 10,500lb total trailer sticker.* Historic testing has shown that 10% of total weight on tongue is a safe number. The boat guys tend to be able to get away with less, but Ford doesn't have crystal ball on what you will be towing, so has to post the safe limit.

*Because some of the trailer weight is often liquid, eg. gas/oil in your tractor, at very light tongue weight, it could shift rearward as you leave the lights, leaving you with negative tongue, then you hit a pothole and your trailer starts an uncontrolled sway.

Does that help?



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