Gas mileage with tow/haul mode
10-31-2018, 11:01 AM
#1
Gas mileage with tow/haul mode
Just purchased a 2015 F150 with 3.5 ecoboost and HD towing package. Will be towing a travel trailer that weighs about 5500 lbs loaded which is less than half the trucks tow rating. Question is what experience do you have with the effect on towing gas mileage between tow/haul mode and regular mode? Would like to optimize gas mileage since I only have a 23 gallon tank.
10-31-2018, 11:38 AM
#2
Senior Member
Just purchased a 2015 F150 with 3.5 ecoboost and HD towing package. Will be towing a travel trailer that weighs about 5500 lbs loaded which is less than half the trucks tow rating. Question is what experience do you have with the effect on towing gas mileage between tow/haul mode and regular mode? Would like to optimize gas mileage since I only have a 23 gallon tank.
10-31-2018, 11:51 AM
#3
Senior Member
If your looking for fuel mileage savings then use regular mode over tow/haul. Tow/haul will keep engine rpms and shift points higher which would help with the tow but not necessary unless you are heading through hilly country. It also helps as a brake by downshifting when coming down hills. Common sense will dictate when needed but your ecoboost should be able to handle that relatively light load without use of tow/haul.
Fuel mileage depends on the actual size of the object being towed (a flatbed trailer vs travel trailer) and the speeds you run. At speeds around 60 mph will see mpgs between 11-12+ with mpgs falling off as you travel at higher speeds. My 7000 lb travel trailer typically sees mpgs around 9 mpg running 65 mph. I try t keep it below that most the time. My 2011 with 5.0 got about 1/2 mpg less at the same speeds.
Good luck.
Fuel mileage depends on the actual size of the object being towed (a flatbed trailer vs travel trailer) and the speeds you run. At speeds around 60 mph will see mpgs between 11-12+ with mpgs falling off as you travel at higher speeds. My 7000 lb travel trailer typically sees mpgs around 9 mpg running 65 mph. I try t keep it below that most the time. My 2011 with 5.0 got about 1/2 mpg less at the same speeds.
Good luck.
10-31-2018, 11:59 AM
#4
Senior Member
I use tow mode when pulling our trailer of about that weight, but have the 5.0, and get 10-11 mpg, although last trip I got nearly 12, but that was without hills and light traffic. I would expect normal mode to do a little better, but probably not enough to sacrifice the benefits from downhill downshifting and later upshifts. When buying I made sure to get the 26 gallon tank because I knew we'd be towing. At 11 mpg that's about 130 more miles before having to fill up.
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Simnut (10-31-2018)
10-31-2018, 12:46 PM
#5
Senior Member
If you're looking to improve mileage while towing, reduce your speed. Resistance is proportional to Velocity squared. The faster you go, the more energy it takes to move.
Previous truck only had 20 usable gallons so I carried a 5 gallon gas can in the bed for years. I even had to use it once or twice. Glad I have the 36 gallon tank on this truck I still carry a gas can for the generator and Just in Case.
Previous truck only had 20 usable gallons so I carried a 5 gallon gas can in the bed for years. I even had to use it once or twice. Glad I have the 36 gallon tank on this truck I still carry a gas can for the generator and Just in Case.
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Ricktwuhk (10-31-2018)
10-31-2018, 01:12 PM
#6
Thanks to everyone for your input. Sure what like to have the 36 gallon tank but this was a used Lariat with only 30000 miles on it with zero blemishes and most factory options. Also certified Ford so get the extended warranty. That combined with a sale price below KBB trade in value made it too good to pass up just for more frequent stops. Just may have to plan trips a little better regarding gas station availability.
10-31-2018, 01:31 PM
#7
I usually tow in Tow/Haul. I tow a beast of a pop-up (It has a 8.5' front deck for toys). So it's not as bad as a standard TT, but worse than regular flat bed (but not by much) as it's a high wall. I've done the informal testing looking at gauges. I also used my OBDII reader to look at boost. In the hills with T/H on and even locked out to say run in 6th or 7th the engine is running faster but little if any boost. Run with any boost and the eco goes out the window with these motors. It also is able to handle the hills better. You're in the power and it will take off without needing to downshift. This was in 55MPH (I'm in CA) in rolling hills heading over to the central coast (Pismo, Morro Bay). I prefer the driveability and power delivery with T/H.
I have one long trip to Southern Utah (1381 towing miles vs 1690 overall for the trip) with quite a bit of flat interstate and I still ran T/H. I got 14.55 towing vs 15.27 overall, hand calculated on that trip.
I have one long trip to Southern Utah (1381 towing miles vs 1690 overall for the trip) with quite a bit of flat interstate and I still ran T/H. I got 14.55 towing vs 15.27 overall, hand calculated on that trip.
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10-31-2018, 01:37 PM
#8
Senior Member
If you are towing 5,500 pounds then you need a weight distribution hitch.
As noted by several, Tow/Haul mode helps with keeping the transmission cooler as well as engine breaking, and stops upshifts that you probably don't want by extending the gear range.
And as noted, your towing capacity is not twice that by any stretch of the imagination. Make sure you read the PAYLOAD sticker on your doorjamb, and the many posts here that tell you what to subtract (mods to truck, people in truck, stuff in truck, 100 pounds for WDH) to see what remaining payload is. Then divide by .13 for max LOADED trailer.
For a used truck, filling it with gas at a CAT scale and then weighing it is best way to see actual weight.
As noted by several, Tow/Haul mode helps with keeping the transmission cooler as well as engine breaking, and stops upshifts that you probably don't want by extending the gear range.
And as noted, your towing capacity is not twice that by any stretch of the imagination. Make sure you read the PAYLOAD sticker on your doorjamb, and the many posts here that tell you what to subtract (mods to truck, people in truck, stuff in truck, 100 pounds for WDH) to see what remaining payload is. Then divide by .13 for max LOADED trailer.
For a used truck, filling it with gas at a CAT scale and then weighing it is best way to see actual weight.
10-31-2018, 01:50 PM
#9
Senior Member
I agree with the other posters here.
My thoughts:
1. Check your payload sticker and calculate what your actual tow capacity is instead of the Ford literature. You'll be surprised how close or over you are with it.
2. Your 5500 lbs trailer is the biggest factor in MPG. The T/H button doesn't instantaneously drop your MPG; however, asking the engine to move twice the weight it normally does will kill MPG.
3. I'd leave it in T/H mode so that the truck can better control the load it's moving. As others have stated, T/H changes and controls shifting points, engine braking, transmission temps, etc. Is less than 1 MPG difference in towing really worth potentially causing damage to the truck over the long haul?
My thoughts:
1. Check your payload sticker and calculate what your actual tow capacity is instead of the Ford literature. You'll be surprised how close or over you are with it.
2. Your 5500 lbs trailer is the biggest factor in MPG. The T/H button doesn't instantaneously drop your MPG; however, asking the engine to move twice the weight it normally does will kill MPG.
3. I'd leave it in T/H mode so that the truck can better control the load it's moving. As others have stated, T/H changes and controls shifting points, engine braking, transmission temps, etc. Is less than 1 MPG difference in towing really worth potentially causing damage to the truck over the long haul?
10-31-2018, 01:58 PM
#10
You are correct regarding the payload. Ford states tow rating of 11900 lbs. but that of course very dependent on tonque load, cargo weight, passengers etc. My door has 1790 lbs. for payload.