When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking around it seems people remove the rake for looks, as I haven't read many benefits of removing the rake of a truck -- please let me know if there are.
I would think if i do decide to go with the 1.75" or 2" position in the front, I would need to re-setup my WDH -- right?
Yes, no & maybe. Everyone will have the right answer until the next poster says they are wrong.
Grab some beer and popcorn and let the comments begin!
If your truck/trailer is currently set up with a WDH and it's dialed in, you will likely have to readjust it a bit.
That being said, the stock rake is built in so that when the truck is loaded with a close to full payload, it will then sit level (with the back squatting to the stock height of the front)
Adding a leveling kit is a very common thing for the trucks that want a slightly lifted look and run around empty the majority of the time. Raising the front by 1.5" to 2" will make the truck look level when it's empty; however, when the bed is loaded down with a bunch of payload (or tongue weight) it will squat a couple inches giving the Cali lean look.
This is where it gets sticky ...
With a leveling kit and WDH hitch properly set up (per Ford and the WDH manufacturer), your truck will likely sit a bit higher in the front and a bit lower in the rear.
To determine proper WDH set up, it is damn near impossible with the naked eye. You can get close with a measuring tape and some time to adjust it. Or, for an exact determination, you need to hit the scales taking a few passes with the truck and trailer to determine if the desired weight is on each axle.
Clear as mud?
Below is a spreadsheet that I used to help calculate proper weights for my set up. Overall, I am very happy with it and the truck and trailer drive great. However, my truck sits higher in the front than the rear with my trailer connected and WDH engaged.
I would think if you raise the front it will tilt the hitch down and stiffen the wdh given that you make no other adjustments. So yeah if you want it to perform the same then you would probably need to adjust it slightly.
leveling is just for getting some more ground clearance, fitting bigger tires, and looks.
I'm sort of doing the opposite, and dropping the rear (hopefully). I'm about to remove the rear blocks from my 4x4 and at the same time I'm going to install a Roadmaster Active Suspension kit that should result in about an inch of "lift" in the rear. I'm hoping the net change in rear height is just a bit lower that stock. With the RAS installed I should see less sag in the rear when hitching up regardless of any overall reduction in unloaded rear height. I'll be sure to post up stock measurements and RAS/no-rear-block measurements when it's done.
A properly setup WDH will return the front well height to at or near it's empty height, and lift the rear well height a little. Of course you have to weigh it to verify, but in the end, the results come out pretty much the same on a stock suspension. All that gets tossed out when the suspension is modified in any way, such as lift kits, air bags, overload springs, etc.
Chances are the squat will be at the normal height, and the front will be at the lifted height with the weight distributed properly, which will result in a nose high attitude, so prepare to get flashed if driving at night. In this case, air bags would be recommended to raise the rear to accommodate the front end lift. It will be a tricky setup to get right. Highly recommend getting an alignment done too.
A properly setup WDH will return the front well height to at or near it's empty height, and lift the rear well height a little. Of course you have to weigh it to verify, but in the end, the results come out pretty much the same on a stock suspension. All that gets tossed out when the suspension is modified in any way, such as lift kits, air bags, overload springs, etc.
Chances are the squat will be at the normal height, and the front will be at the lifted height with the weight distributed properly, which will result in a nose high attitude, so prepare to get flashed if driving at night. In this case, air bags would be recommended to raise the rear to accommodate the front end lift. It will be a tricky setup to get right. Highly recommend getting an alignment done too.
Yeah acdii - I am between the Roadmaster and/or doing the 5100s in the front. I am sure both would be great, and I might go down that route.
I have installed the Roadmaster rig on my rear leaf packs, and with the absolute minimum preload (0.65 - 0.70 mm; just less than the Roadmaster's general recommended minimum setting), and my rear ride height increased by just over .5 inch.
This, after I had first lowered the rear ride height one inch by installing 1" drop shackles. I did not wish to raise the front at the time, originally.
After the rear height increase from the Roadmaster, I would like to raise the front of my truck approx. 3/4"... but I'll be damned if I'm going back into the front suspension to remove those Bilsteins! lulz... cheeeze... I've learned to like a little rake.
That said, I do carry a bit of gear in the bed under a tonneau, so, my setup right now is fine. I like the appearance of a lifted, level F150, but practically, it's not for me. I haul gear, and when my small travel trailer is finished in the next couple of years, I'll be adding to the payload by towing with 150-200 lbs tongue weight.
I have installed the Roadmaster rig on my rear leaf packs, and with the absolute minimum preload (0.65 - 0.70 mm; just less than the Roadmaster's general recommended minimum setting), and my rear ride height increased by just over .5 inch.
This, after I had first lowered the rear ride height one inch by installing 1" drop shackles. I did not wish to raise the front at the time, originally.
After the rear height increase from the Roadmaster, I would like to raise the front of my truck approx. 3/4"... but I'll be damned if I'm going back into the front suspension to remove those Bilsteins! lulz... cheeeze... I've learned to like a little rake.
That said, I do carry a bit of gear in the bed under a tonneau, so, my setup right now is fine. I like the appearance of a lifted, level F150, but practically, it's not for me. I haul gear, and when my small travel trailer is finished in the next couple of years, I'll be adding to the payload by towing with 150-200 lbs tongue weight.
Do you feel like the Active Suspension helped with towing the gear in the bed + the TT?
I am waiting to hear back from Nolan, but I think you answered my question (I will see a little lift in the rear even with the least spring tension.)
(I will see a little lift in the rear even with the least spring tension.)
You will. And I think the reason for that when other Roadmaster users claim no change in ride height is our aluminum F150s' lighter weight. You might ask Nolan if they've ever considered a lighter spring rate coil spring. I'm under the impression they use the same coil for all their 1/2-ton variations including the steel-bodied Chevy, Dodge, et al.
10-24-2017, 06:50 PM
Front 5100s and towing
...
