Wicked ace

I took the time this morning to put the Equal-i-zer hitch on my new truck and see how it lined up. First thing, with the new truck sitting higher I saw I needed to lower the head. I took it down one hole to the lowest and re-tightened. Other than that I left the same set up as on my previous TV. After I put the ball in the hitch and raised the trailer to swing the bars into the l-brackets and latched everything in place I lowered the trailer off the jack. Standing back I could see the trailer sitting tongue end high and a bit of rake in my truck. The level on the trailer verified my eyeball showing out a full bubble. I took the head off again and removed a washer (now 4) reinstalled and tightened again. Now the trailer sits just off the center of the bubble but good enough and the truck sits lower in the rear with just a bit of rake. I was hooked up and took a test ride to a local quarry that leaves their scales on and told me it was ok to check weights.
I'm going from memory here 12840# GVW I know from a previous weigh in the truck with me and my dog is 5720# so the trailer is 7120#. I cannot remember the weight of the truck on the scale with the TT hooked up but recall some quick math at the scale told me I was at 800# tongue weight. I did weigh the front axles but cannot recall the number. Next time I'll remember to take paper and pencil. or at least my phone to record all this. I didn't want to hang around and try for more.
The Equal-i-zer spring arms look to be parallel with the TT frame so I thought I would be good. While driving the front end felt planted but I was getting an abnormal, at least from my experience, amount of porpoising / bouncing on relatively smooth secondary roads traveling 35 to 45 MPH. I'm wondering how I could adjust the hitch to get rid of the bouncing?
I have installed Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear and a Hellwig Sway bar in case anyone is ready to ask. TT is a 2014 Flagstaff V-Lite 26wkfss just polished last week with Poly Pro boat polish and it looks FABULOUS!

StonedFX4

Try increasing the psi in the tires to around 40-45 range, it will reduce the pogo effect some but not 100%. I have OEM 20's on my '18 and run 43F and 42R towing a Mesa Ridge 2410RL, gross weight of 7400 with the same hitch as you. Increasing the psi in my tires reduced the pogo effect to a more reasonable/acceptable level for me.

fubar

Same setup but I removed 2 washers for my Airstream Sport 22FB. +1 on the tire pressure. Make it feel much more stable all 'round.

chimmike

I air my rear tires up to max pressure for the tire, which on my hankooks is 50psi. World of difference from daily driving 35psi.

Wicked ace

To all....See my signature, I have an HDPP truck so I'm equipped with LT, load range C tires standard. Air pressure is at 48 PSI as per the door sticker.

Siskiyou

Run-n-gun

toy4speed

If your TT is level, but you want a bit more control in the rear suspension bounce, I'd try lowering the hitch ball slightly (maybe one hole), then increase the WDH spring bar tension. This should keep you current heights, but move more weight from the rear axle to the front axles. Without lowering the hitch, just increasing spring bar might raise the front of your TT too much.

Mach5

Just curious if the stock shocks would handle differently. I have read some posts here and on other forums that say the 5100s are great for towing, and some that say they are better for everyday driving and off-road, but a compromise when towing heavy. Not sure which to believe. I think the stock HDPP shocks are different from the standard shocks, to match the stiffer springs. Do the 5100s offer a heavy duty option, or is it one size fits all?

Wicked ace

What I'm really after is people with the same or similar WDH that could give some input. I had this hitch on my previous TV and had it dialed in pretty well. I'm just not sure what the next move to help might be. If I can get the bounce down I'll take it to a CAT scale, the nearest one is 35 miles away and get good numbers. Whichever one I go to there are tolls so it can get expensive. That's why I use the quarry scale to see where I'm at.
The stock shocks do handle differently with the truck unloaded. There isn't much damping so every small crack or bump comes through. When I took them off I compressed them very easily and extension was slow. Whereas the Bilstien required more effort to compress and returned relatively quickly. If you go through the OEM part numbers the only difference is the last place letter. There may be internal valving but as far as external physical differences, none I can see. I had the same thought and I may try returning the stock shocks.