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Equilizer/Blueox guru's, thoughts?

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Old 09-07-2017, 01:22 PM
  #31  
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If the spring bars your current system uses are rated for 800 lbs of TW, but your trailer weighs out showing 820 lbs of TW, there's your first issue. Your second issue is the friction sway unit you're using. A friction sway unit is what's considered an entry-level solution to combat minor trailer sway. For anything more than a minor swaying condition, you'll really want to go with a w/d system that has an integrated sway control system like what Equal-i-zer offers. W/D systems are good for a certain range of tongue weights. You'll want a system that places your trailer's fully loaded and ready to tow tongue weight as close as possible to the system's effective range. Also, don't forget that the weight of any gear stowed in your truck bed behind the rear truck axle should be considered tongue weight.

What you're describing is what's seeming to be a fairly common complaint for this generation truck. The trucks are lighter in the rear end, which will have an effect on how the vehicle tows. Upgrading the rear shocks was a good move, I've also heard from folks who've had good luck going with higher rated rear tires.

Equal-i-zer makes a great system rated for trailer tongue weights ranging between 6000-1000 lbs, which would be ideal for the TW of your travel trailer (assuming you've also included the weight of anything stowed in the truck bed behind the rear axle in the 820# tongue weight figure you've stated. If that cargo weight would put the trailer's tongue weight up over 900 lbs, going with the system rated for 800-1200 lbs would work out better for you.

For more information, click the link below:

https://www.etrailer.com/expert-118.html
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Old 09-07-2017, 02:09 PM
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I certainly enjoy the etrailer team contributing here
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Old 09-07-2017, 04:22 PM
  #33  
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Yep, it worked well for the 2014, and still locks the trailer in as I have no sway to speak of, heck I can't even induce sway unless I crank up the bars to 4 links to push more weight back, then it overrides the bar.

Right now I am researching the E2, vs the Equalizer and Blue Ox. Leaning more towards the Blue Ox at the moment. When I was at the last camp ground there were quite a few smaller SUV's towing with the E2, and their trailers were close in size to mine. I didn't see any with the Blue Ox though.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Yep, it worked well for the 2014, and still locks the trailer in as I have no sway to speak of, heck I can't even induce sway unless I crank up the bars to 4 links to push more weight back, then it overrides the bar.

Right now I am researching the E2, vs the Equalizer and Blue Ox. Leaning more towards the Blue Ox at the moment. When I was at the last camp ground there were quite a few smaller SUV's towing with the E2, and their trailers were close in size to mine. I didn't see any with the Blue Ox though.
My Blue Ox helped my 2016 a ton. It still doesn't tow anywhere near as stable as you'd expect, but I don't get any trailer sway and the suspension does its job.
Old 09-07-2017, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
I agree, Ford screwed up on the new gen frame. The 14 was maxed out, and then some, but was rock solid up to 80 MPH(never exceeded that, not that crazy, or stupid). The only time I ever had sway was the day I brought it home and discovered the dealer didn't know how to setup a hitch. Once I got it dialed in, it was rock solid in any condition.

This is why I am so very disappointed with the new truck, I had high hopes with the higher payload that it would be better, only to find its not even close.

Fingers crossed the upgraded hitch solves the issue.
I'm seriously considering going back to a used 2014 Max Tow
Old 09-07-2017, 06:18 PM
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I gringe when I see the F150 commercials anymore that brag about "best in class towing". Since it's the consumers responsibility to know and stay within the ratings of they're vehicle, I guess Ford puts enough footnotes in the towing guide to protect themselves from lawsuits. When I was looking at getting a new TV the F150 was a definite consideration, once I got serious about the numbers they just didn't add up. I tow a TT that's 8,000lbs with 950 lbs tongue weight fully loaded so I decided to get something heavier than F150. You know the saying "if it sounds too good to be true it probably isn't". It's also shows how the SAE j2807 tow ratings can be manipulated to favor the manufacturers and the consumer ends up screwed just like before. After all the SAE is made up of auto industry engineers that have protected they're companies interests well.
Old 09-07-2017, 06:41 PM
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Personally I would start by getting rid of the cheap WDH and get a much better one.
Old 09-07-2017, 08:37 PM
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I wonder if there would be any drawbacks of using a 1500 pound Blue Ox instead of the 1000 pound one. I found a sweet deal on the 1500 one.
Old 09-07-2017, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
I wonder if there would be any drawbacks of using a 1500 pound Blue Ox instead of the 1000 pound one. I found a sweet deal on the 1500 one.
You are probably right at about 1k pounds anyway and should use the 1500 pound version, no?

800 tongue weight, 100lb hitch, junk loaded in bed behind the axle = 1000#
Old 09-07-2017, 08:45 PM
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I dont have anything behind the axle when traveling. The genny and tool box are against the front of the bed, but was thinking that I am pretty close to 1000. Of course at some point the trailer may get bigger. I'm just concerned the stiffer bars will translate to a stiffer ride with more bounce if I dont get enough weight on them.


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