2018LLB4x2

This is more theoretical at this point, as both trailers I currently own would fit in the bed at the same time and be within payload, but would it be valid to use a low fuel level to increase available payload and still be within GVWR? It's really only viable for short distances, but I should be able to use an additional 200 lbs part of which would be driver to allow for the needed weight to transfer to the truck for towing near capacity.

schmenke

Not sure I understand this ^

But to your point (I think), assuming your truck is equipped with the 36 gallon tank, wanting to shed 200lbs of weight would leave you less than 5 gallons (I googled gasoline weighs about 6.3 lbs/gallon), which would result, assuming 15mpg, in a range of about 75 miles.

icantdrive55

My take? If you're only towing short distances, being 200# over payload isn't gonna make a damn bit of difference with regard to safety.

schmenke

Disagree. Call me overly cautious, but being over payload capacity by 200lbs is not insignificant. A lot can happen in 75 miles, or whatever distance the OP is thinking of towing.

smokeywren

GVWR minus the weight of the wet and loaded tow vehicle = payload capacity available for hitch weight (or any other weight you want to add).

Remember that GVWR is the limiter, and payload capacity is just a calculation based on the GVWR minus truck weight..

So yeah, if you reduce the weight of the tow vehicle without messing with components that are included in the computation of GVWR (tires, wheels, suspension, brakes, frame strength, etc.), you increase available payload.

The payload number posted on the door frame assumes a full tank of gas. So if you have less than a full tank of gas, you'll have more payload capacity for other weight,

marshallr

200 lbs is nothing for limited use. I wouldn't want to drive any truck loaded right up to the max allowable on a consistent basis. Even being over by a few hundred pounds isn't going to cause catastrophic failure or create a safety issue. That would only be 5-10% over depending on the truck. But driving consistently at even 80-90% of your limit will lead to premature wear.

TerryD64

and as always, the yellow "payload" sticker (Manufacturer's Tire Certification actually) is useless the day a permanent mod goes on to the truck. It's the as-built value when it left the factory sticker.
The Mfg tire cert tells tire shops what tires were specified by the mfg when built. Many Costco and Sam's club tire shops will not put a different tire on the vehicle. My previous truck was denied LT tires three times by three different shops because of that damn sticker NOT specifying LT tires. (It's an insurance thing I was told) I just went to a different shop PITA.

StonedFX4

I'm curious as to what trailers the OP has that both will fit in the bed??? Pictures ?????

2018LLB4x2

One is a 4x8 flat utility trailer. The tongue is held on with removable pins as it's a tilt bed, so it could pop off and sit along side it. The other is a small aluminum / fiberglass (sort of like a car topper shape in trailer form). It spent the first few years being towed by a motorcycle before I acquired it. It's dry weight is 150lbs.
The tiny one was used as neither the Miata nor Mustang really have sufficient trunk capacity for long road trips.

jp360cj

why not just put the small trailer on the bigger trailer and tow it? or small trailer in the truck bed and tow the bigger one?