Difference in weight/ tow ratings
05-18-2016, 11:36 PM
#11
Senior Member
Well your payload will probably determine your maximum trailer weight anyway. Use this formula for maximum trailer weight based on payload and assuming a 100 lb weight distributing hitch and 2 adults (400 lb) in the truck and 10% tongue weight. Your payload is written on a sticker on the drivers door frame. If you carry anything else in the truck that did not come from the factory, subtract that from the payload before multiplying.
Max trailer weight = (Payload - 100 - 400) X 10
For 12% tongue weight multiply by 8.3 instead of 10.
Max trailer weight = (Payload - 100 - 400) X 10
For 12% tongue weight multiply by 8.3 instead of 10.
05-19-2016, 06:07 AM
#12
Well your payload will probably determine your maximum trailer weight anyway. Use this formula for maximum trailer weight based on payload and assuming a 100 lb weight distributing hitch and 2 adults (400 lb) in the truck and 10% tongue weight. Your payload is written on a sticker on the drivers door frame. If you carry anything else in the truck that did not come from the factory, subtract that from the payload before multiplying.
Max trailer weight = (Payload - 100 - 400) X 10
For 12% tongue weight multiply by 8.3 instead of 10.
Max trailer weight = (Payload - 100 - 400) X 10
For 12% tongue weight multiply by 8.3 instead of 10.
i already have the camper, and I have had it weighed. It is within the specs of my current truck. it does bounce and pull the truck around a bit though. I see lots of people try to remedy this with heavier duty tires or some suspension add ons.
I'm thinking of a new truck and I'm just wondering if a similar f150 with a higher tow rating would handle the trailer better? Or is the suspension mostly the same as my current truck? If there are no major differences I may just go with a f250. Probably overkill but will save me from buying aftermarket parts that may or may not fix my issues.
05-19-2016, 07:28 AM
#13
i already have the camper, and I have had it weighed. It is within the specs of my current truck. it does bounce and pull the truck around a bit though. I see lots of people try to remedy this with heavier duty tires or some suspension add ons.
I'm thinking of a new truck and I'm just wondering if a similar f150 with a higher tow rating would handle the trailer better? Or is the suspension mostly the same as my current truck? If there are no major differences I may just go with a f250. Probably overkill but will save me from buying aftermarket parts that may or may not fix my issues.
I'm thinking of a new truck and I'm just wondering if a similar f150 with a higher tow rating would handle the trailer better? Or is the suspension mostly the same as my current truck? If there are no major differences I may just go with a f250. Probably overkill but will save me from buying aftermarket parts that may or may not fix my issues.
Try putting in a Hellwig rear anti-roll bar. The trouble with a truck camper is all of the weight is up high. An anti-roll bar would help; probably more than air bags. $250 and 2 hours of time. Give it a try. It's a lot cheaper than trading trucks.
05-19-2016, 09:47 AM
#15
05-19-2016, 10:29 PM
#18
Sorry I wasn't clear. It is a 24ft travel trailer. I use an equalizer wdh. Truck does ok with the trailer as it is not very heavy. I was just looking into new trucks and I would like a little more stability and possibly a larger bed for more gear.
I was just wondering if a higher tow rating truck had a heavier suspension than my current truck or if I would have to step up to a superduty to get that.
Sorry again, I feel like I dropped the ball on explaining myself.
I was just wondering if a higher tow rating truck had a heavier suspension than my current truck or if I would have to step up to a superduty to get that.
Sorry again, I feel like I dropped the ball on explaining myself.
05-19-2016, 11:48 PM
#20
Senior Member
I towed a heavier trailer than that with a stock Ford Sport Trac with no stability issues.
I would first readjust your Equalizer Hitch. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf
Secondly, make sure all tires are at full pressure cold before towing.
Even with the same tire size and rating I noticed differences in stability between tire designs...The Goodyear Assurance Triple-Tread and Goodyear Forterra both had more lateral flexibility than the Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max. A more highway-spec tire seemed more stable than a more aggressive all-season tires. But, being careful with my money, I didn't trade tires until I needed them. The difference, while noticeable, wasn't worth buying new tires before the old ones were worn out.
Driving is a little discussed factor in the stability sensation on a truck and trailer... Today I was passed by a pickup truck and camper that was going at least 70+ on a rural 4-lane Indiana road that had a 60 mph speed limit. While towing like the grandpa that I am, I have less wind resistance on the camper and truck at more reasonable speeds, and less wind differential when meeting or passing semi trucks. A beefier suspension or more aggressively correcting hitch wont make up for aggressive, speeding, lane-weaving driving and the attendant instability. I'm not suggesting that you are one of those drivers, but I do suspect that some who complain on forums bring on some of their own problems with their driving habits.
When buying a replacement truck I agree with you that it is best to get more truck than you need, and if you need to put on upgrades (airbags, anti-sway bars, overload springs, etc.), then you didn't get the right truck in the first place. The Heavy Duty Payload Package truck I bought is more than I need, but the heavier frame, springs, shocks, axles, wheels, and tires now make the trailer seem like it's not even hitched up. The ride, while firmer, is still comfortable while driving empty/unhitched. A stronger, manly Heavy Duty Payload F150 without all the unnecessary "goodies" like sunroof, power mirrors, and massaging seats will make the drive enjoyable and you will never have to worry about loading up that trailer and the truck bed with toys as well. The problem with a new one is they are still scheduled for late second-quarter for any supercrew HDPP trucks to be built, and used ones very rare. The HDPP on the 5.0 or EcoBoost is the only way to get upgraded suspension on the new generation of trucks; Max Tow doesn't add anything to the suspension.
With the HDPP 3.5 EcoBoost I am averaging about 18.5 mpg so far when not towing; better than my Sport Trac. If I had gone with a new 6.2 gas F250 I would have been looking at 12 to 13 miles per gallon for non-towing daily driving.
I would first readjust your Equalizer Hitch. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf
Secondly, make sure all tires are at full pressure cold before towing.
Even with the same tire size and rating I noticed differences in stability between tire designs...The Goodyear Assurance Triple-Tread and Goodyear Forterra both had more lateral flexibility than the Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max. A more highway-spec tire seemed more stable than a more aggressive all-season tires. But, being careful with my money, I didn't trade tires until I needed them. The difference, while noticeable, wasn't worth buying new tires before the old ones were worn out.
Driving is a little discussed factor in the stability sensation on a truck and trailer... Today I was passed by a pickup truck and camper that was going at least 70+ on a rural 4-lane Indiana road that had a 60 mph speed limit. While towing like the grandpa that I am, I have less wind resistance on the camper and truck at more reasonable speeds, and less wind differential when meeting or passing semi trucks. A beefier suspension or more aggressively correcting hitch wont make up for aggressive, speeding, lane-weaving driving and the attendant instability. I'm not suggesting that you are one of those drivers, but I do suspect that some who complain on forums bring on some of their own problems with their driving habits.
When buying a replacement truck I agree with you that it is best to get more truck than you need, and if you need to put on upgrades (airbags, anti-sway bars, overload springs, etc.), then you didn't get the right truck in the first place. The Heavy Duty Payload Package truck I bought is more than I need, but the heavier frame, springs, shocks, axles, wheels, and tires now make the trailer seem like it's not even hitched up. The ride, while firmer, is still comfortable while driving empty/unhitched. A stronger, manly Heavy Duty Payload F150 without all the unnecessary "goodies" like sunroof, power mirrors, and massaging seats will make the drive enjoyable and you will never have to worry about loading up that trailer and the truck bed with toys as well. The problem with a new one is they are still scheduled for late second-quarter for any supercrew HDPP trucks to be built, and used ones very rare. The HDPP on the 5.0 or EcoBoost is the only way to get upgraded suspension on the new generation of trucks; Max Tow doesn't add anything to the suspension.
With the HDPP 3.5 EcoBoost I am averaging about 18.5 mpg so far when not towing; better than my Sport Trac. If I had gone with a new 6.2 gas F250 I would have been looking at 12 to 13 miles per gallon for non-towing daily driving.
Last edited by Velosprout; 05-19-2016 at 11:52 PM.