Changing gear ratio
03-28-2016, 11:07 AM
#21
Junior Member
I'm ordering the parts today for mine. Here is the parts brake down.
Bearings and Seal 145.00
Ring and Pinion gear 4:10 ratio 160.00
Clutch plate kit 98.00 (limit slip)
Cover plate gasket 4.00
Axle shaft bearings 18.00
U joints 22.00 (U joints don't need to be replaced but mine have a lot of miles on them)
Same with the Axle shaft bearings, but I think it is a good idea to replace them.
That is 447.00 for parts, figure another few dollars for gear lube, and four hours labor. Setting up a differential takes experience and the proper tooling so it really isn't a job for the inexperienced mechanic. In our area labor rates run about 100.00 per hour. So basically it should cost between 900.00 and 1000.00 depending on your local labor rates.
Also there are strict guidelines for ring and pinion break.
Bearings and Seal 145.00
Ring and Pinion gear 4:10 ratio 160.00
Clutch plate kit 98.00 (limit slip)
Cover plate gasket 4.00
Axle shaft bearings 18.00
U joints 22.00 (U joints don't need to be replaced but mine have a lot of miles on them)
Same with the Axle shaft bearings, but I think it is a good idea to replace them.
That is 447.00 for parts, figure another few dollars for gear lube, and four hours labor. Setting up a differential takes experience and the proper tooling so it really isn't a job for the inexperienced mechanic. In our area labor rates run about 100.00 per hour. So basically it should cost between 900.00 and 1000.00 depending on your local labor rates.
Also there are strict guidelines for ring and pinion break.
The following 2 users liked this post by RBPerry:
ModelAMike (03-29-2016),
SKBORDERS (03-28-2016)
03-28-2016, 11:27 AM
#22
If the trailer is staying in one place, just hire someone to tow it there.
The following users liked this post:
ModelAMike (03-29-2016)
03-28-2016, 07:29 PM
#24
Senior Member
I'm ordering the parts today for mine. Here is the parts brake down.
Bearings and Seal 145.00
Ring and Pinion gear 4:10 ratio 160.00
Clutch plate kit 98.00 (limit slip)
Cover plate gasket 4.00
Axle shaft bearings 18.00
U joints 22.00 (U joints don't need to be replaced but mine have a lot of miles on them)
Same with the Axle shaft bearings, but I think it is a good idea to replace them.
That is 447.00 for parts, figure another few dollars for gear lube, and four hours labor. Setting up a differential takes experience and the proper tooling so it really isn't a job for the inexperienced mechanic. In our area labor rates run about 100.00 per hour. So basically it should cost between 900.00 and 1000.00 depending on your local labor rates.
Also there are strict guidelines for ring and pinion break.
Bearings and Seal 145.00
Ring and Pinion gear 4:10 ratio 160.00
Clutch plate kit 98.00 (limit slip)
Cover plate gasket 4.00
Axle shaft bearings 18.00
U joints 22.00 (U joints don't need to be replaced but mine have a lot of miles on them)
Same with the Axle shaft bearings, but I think it is a good idea to replace them.
That is 447.00 for parts, figure another few dollars for gear lube, and four hours labor. Setting up a differential takes experience and the proper tooling so it really isn't a job for the inexperienced mechanic. In our area labor rates run about 100.00 per hour. So basically it should cost between 900.00 and 1000.00 depending on your local labor rates.
Also there are strict guidelines for ring and pinion break.
04-23-2016, 11:14 AM
#25
04-25-2016, 01:15 AM
#26
Senior Member
You have the wrong truck for towing. The best solution is trading trucks; it will be cheaper in the long run. Don't make the expensive mistake of changing your gear ratio, then change the suspension and add air bags, then install a tune, then upgrade tires, then after all that time and money, decide that you needed a different truck and take a bath on the trade-in because of all the non-stock mods. Your truck is rated for the same towing capacity as a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe.
04-25-2016, 10:53 AM
#27
Grumpy Old Man
Ford RV and Trailer Towing guide.
3.5L 4-valve V6 (non-turbo) engine with 3.55 axle ratio in a SuperCab has GCWR of 9,900 pounds, with tow rating of 5,000 pounds. So the tow rating is accurate only when the wet and loaded F-150 grosses 4,900 pounds or less.
With 3.73 axle, GCWR jumps to 12,200 pounds, or a tow rating of 7,300, but again only when the wet and loaded F-150 grosses 4,900 pounds or less.
So ignore those tow ratings, and assume at least 500 pounds of payload in the pickup, so realistic tow ratings change to 4,500 with 3.55 axle or 6,800 with 3.73.
So with the 3.73 axle and 500 pounds max payload in the F-150 SuperCab, you should be able to pull a 6,000 pound trailer without overheating anything in the drivetrain and without being the slowpoke holding up traffic on steep grades.
What would I probably do? Change the ring gear and pinion to a 4.10 ratio. That ratio is not available for that F-150 from Ford, so I'd buy it from Randy's and have a really-good rear end shop do the R&R.
The 4.10 ratio is not included in the RV and Trailer Towing guide, so I'd assume the GCWR would be at least a bit better than the 12,200 pounds of the 3.73 ratio. If I limit my max trailer weight to 6,000 pounds and my max payload to 700 pounds (me plus 520 pounds), then my F-150 should have no problems in comfortably towing that 6k trailer over the Rockies with no issues other than lousy MPG.
04-25-2016, 01:16 PM
#28
Ford RV and Trailer Towing guide.
3.5L 4-valve V6 (non-turbo) engine with 3.55 axle ratio in a SuperCab has GCWR of 9,900 pounds, with tow rating of 5,000 pounds. So the tow rating is accurate only when the wet and loaded F-150 grosses 4,900 pounds or less.
With 3.73 axle, GCWR jumps to 12,200 pounds, or a tow rating of 7,300, but again only when the wet and loaded F-150 grosses 4,900 pounds or less.
So ignore those tow ratings, and assume at least 500 pounds of payload in the pickup, so realistic tow ratings change to 4,500 with 3.55 axle or 6,800 with 3.73.
So with the 3.73 axle and 500 pounds max payload in the F-150 SuperCab, you should be able to pull a 6,000 pound trailer without overheating anything in the drivetrain and without being the slowpoke holding up traffic on steep grades.
What would I probably do? Change the ring gear and pinion to a 4.10 ratio. That ratio is not available for that F-150 from Ford, so I'd buy it from Randy's and have a really-good rear end shop do the R&R.
The 4.10 ratio is not included in the RV and Trailer Towing guide, so I'd assume the GCWR would be at least a bit better than the 12,200 pounds of the 3.73 ratio. If I limit my max trailer weight to 6,000 pounds and my max payload to 700 pounds (me plus 520 pounds), then my F-150 should have no problems in comfortably towing that 6k trailer over the Rockies with no issues other than lousy MPG.
3.5L 4-valve V6 (non-turbo) engine with 3.55 axle ratio in a SuperCab has GCWR of 9,900 pounds, with tow rating of 5,000 pounds. So the tow rating is accurate only when the wet and loaded F-150 grosses 4,900 pounds or less.
With 3.73 axle, GCWR jumps to 12,200 pounds, or a tow rating of 7,300, but again only when the wet and loaded F-150 grosses 4,900 pounds or less.
So ignore those tow ratings, and assume at least 500 pounds of payload in the pickup, so realistic tow ratings change to 4,500 with 3.55 axle or 6,800 with 3.73.
So with the 3.73 axle and 500 pounds max payload in the F-150 SuperCab, you should be able to pull a 6,000 pound trailer without overheating anything in the drivetrain and without being the slowpoke holding up traffic on steep grades.
What would I probably do? Change the ring gear and pinion to a 4.10 ratio. That ratio is not available for that F-150 from Ford, so I'd buy it from Randy's and have a really-good rear end shop do the R&R.
The 4.10 ratio is not included in the RV and Trailer Towing guide, so I'd assume the GCWR would be at least a bit better than the 12,200 pounds of the 3.73 ratio. If I limit my max trailer weight to 6,000 pounds and my max payload to 700 pounds (me plus 520 pounds), then my F-150 should have no problems in comfortably towing that 6k trailer over the Rockies with no issues other than lousy MPG.
Ford does list the base curb weight of a regular cab 8' bed 2x4 with the 3.5 NA motor at 4150 lbs so I would assume its only an extra 50-100 lbs for a super cab 6.5' bed
Last edited by mass-hole; 04-25-2016 at 01:28 PM.
05-08-2016, 09:59 AM
#29
Hello from Alberta Canada Don
Just got a 2012 F-150 with 3.7 L non turbo 1/2 with 6 speed auto in 2 wheel drive.
Not sure of gear set since I don't have it home yet. Plan is to set it up as a car since I have many heavy haul units at our family farm.
Unit will see a small atv in the back once in a while, but mainly be used 98% of the time as a car, Ha.
Fairly flat where I live here in Central Alberta and very low grade hills in the odd area driving West to foot hills.
Test drive showed 2200 to 2400 rpm at 100 kph/ or 62 mpr, I would guess this is good since they are not lugging motors like my many 8 piston units.
Plan when I get it home is to see what the rpm to 100 kpr reading is, tire size on the truck, and what gear set is in it.
This unit will never see a trailer on the back, and max pay load at times of 600 lbs with 1 or 2 people in the cab.
Once I know the gear set and tire size I will need an idea if its worth doing to maximize fuel mileage since fuel prices will be going up here in Canada.
Car is not an option since I'm to red neck to even think of going that route.
Helpful info will be needed later on as I come up with a unknown game plan.
I have access to complete rear ends to drop in cheap up here since I live in auto wrecker heaven with 100 of them in our 160 mile range. LOL Albertans are hard on trucks you know.
Glad to be on board with all in the following years. Canada/ USA traveler Don
Just got a 2012 F-150 with 3.7 L non turbo 1/2 with 6 speed auto in 2 wheel drive.
Not sure of gear set since I don't have it home yet. Plan is to set it up as a car since I have many heavy haul units at our family farm.
Unit will see a small atv in the back once in a while, but mainly be used 98% of the time as a car, Ha.
Fairly flat where I live here in Central Alberta and very low grade hills in the odd area driving West to foot hills.
Test drive showed 2200 to 2400 rpm at 100 kph/ or 62 mpr, I would guess this is good since they are not lugging motors like my many 8 piston units.
Plan when I get it home is to see what the rpm to 100 kpr reading is, tire size on the truck, and what gear set is in it.
This unit will never see a trailer on the back, and max pay load at times of 600 lbs with 1 or 2 people in the cab.
Once I know the gear set and tire size I will need an idea if its worth doing to maximize fuel mileage since fuel prices will be going up here in Canada.
Car is not an option since I'm to red neck to even think of going that route.
Helpful info will be needed later on as I come up with a unknown game plan.
I have access to complete rear ends to drop in cheap up here since I live in auto wrecker heaven with 100 of them in our 160 mile range. LOL Albertans are hard on trucks you know.
Glad to be on board with all in the following years. Canada/ USA traveler Don
05-08-2016, 10:20 AM
#30
Grumpy Old Man
Hi, Don, and WELCOME! to F-150 forum. My nephew bought a brand new '97 F-150 with your specs, including black paint. He drove that pickup as a car for over 15 years and never spent a dime on it for anything other than routine maintenance, tires and shocks. Never drug a trailer heavier than a small boat, but often hauled a bed full of stuff.
I hope you enjoy yours as much as he did his.
The following users liked this post:
Don_Parsons (05-08-2016)
