Buying a new F150
#12
Senior Member
I basically have a similar 2016 (payload is 100lbs less than yours) and a 7000lb GVWR trailer (5200lb dry) so it is at its payload limit with 3 adults and a reasonable load in the bed. It does not tow it well -- too much sway and bounce. There are a number of threads on the 15/16 towing issues. I am looking at in order: 1) upgrading the WDH (to one with anti-sway); 2) adding Timbrens; 3) replacing the shocks; and 4) switching to LT tires.
If you haven't bought the truck yet, I'd get the dealer to replace the tires as part of the deal (they can sell the OEMs as take-offs so it isn't a big cost hit for them).
And ignore comments of older truck owners. I had a 2010 and it didn't have these issues.
#13
Senior Member
I see 1,749, not 1,800.
51 pounds of Payload 13% tongue weight = nearly 400 pounds in the trailer.
51 pounds of Payload 13% tongue weight = nearly 400 pounds in the trailer.
#14
#15
Grumpy Old Man
Because you want that truck without having to go through the hassle and wait to get the truck you need. So you fudge the numbers to hopefully force the numbers into compliance with what you want them to show?
1,749 payload capacity minus 985 hitch weight leaves only 764 pounds for family and stuff. That ain't much. No toolbox or campfire wood or cooler or toys in the bed - haul that stuff in the trailer. No water in the fresh water tank. Add the fresh water after you get to the campsite. And be certain you dump the holding tanks as well as the fresh water tank before you leave the campsite.
And after you get hooked up and on the road for your first camping trip, stop at a truck stop that has a certified automated truck scale, fill up with gas, and weigh the wet and loaded rig. Be sure everybody and everything is in the truck when you weigh it. Add the weights on the front and rear axles of the F-150. Subtract that weight from the GVWR of the F-150, and you'll see how much overloaded you are over the payload capacity of your F-150.
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Ricktwuhk (09-16-2016)
#16
First off, wow a bit snarky? No that was not my intent at all, just for some reason approximated it.
Where do you get 985lbs?
Dry weight of my traller is 5915
Dry tongue weight of my trailer is 640
So I bumped trailer up a 1000lbs and the hitch up 100lbs to account for "wet", given we never tow with water in the tank or sewage. I'm not trying to buy the truck and ignore warnings, I'm all ears.... Maybe putting an extra leaf spring in would be wise (thats all the max tow/hd **** does). I will be using an equalizer wd sway hitch
Where do you get 985lbs?
Dry weight of my traller is 5915
Dry tongue weight of my trailer is 640
So I bumped trailer up a 1000lbs and the hitch up 100lbs to account for "wet", given we never tow with water in the tank or sewage. I'm not trying to buy the truck and ignore warnings, I'm all ears.... Maybe putting an extra leaf spring in would be wise (thats all the max tow/hd **** does). I will be using an equalizer wd sway hitch
Last edited by Zunee; 09-16-2016 at 08:04 PM.
#17
Grumpy Old Man
It's explained in post #7 above.
You wrote "Will it suffice to tow a 7000lb trailer ..."
So I assumed a 7,000 pound wet and loaded trailer.
Simple Junior-High math.
Buy further checking shows my Reese Strait-Line hitch sized to handle the hitch weight of a 7k trailer has shipping weight of 113 pounds, not my earlier guess of 75 pounds.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html
So with my hitch that total hitch weight would be over 1,000 pounds.
Actual wet and loaded tongue weight of a tandem-axle travel trailer varies from about 12% to about 15% of gross trailer weight, with 13% being the average. If you use 13% your estimate will be in the ballpark for tongue weight. Plus you must add the shipping weight of the weight-distributing hitch to the tongue weight to get gross hitch weight.
You wrote "Will it suffice to tow a 7000lb trailer ..."
So I assumed a 7,000 pound wet and loaded trailer.
Originally Posted by SmokeyWren
If your trailer actually grosses 7,000 pounds when wet and loaded for the road, then it's probably going to have more than 760 pounds tongue weight. Count on at least 13% tongue weight, plus another 75 pounds for a good WD hitch. That's 985 pounds of total hitch weight.
Buy further checking shows my Reese Strait-Line hitch sized to handle the hitch weight of a 7k trailer has shipping weight of 113 pounds, not my earlier guess of 75 pounds.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66084.html
So with my hitch that total hitch weight would be over 1,000 pounds.
Actual wet and loaded tongue weight of a tandem-axle travel trailer varies from about 12% to about 15% of gross trailer weight, with 13% being the average. If you use 13% your estimate will be in the ballpark for tongue weight. Plus you must add the shipping weight of the weight-distributing hitch to the tongue weight to get gross hitch weight.
Last edited by smokeywren; 09-16-2016 at 09:46 PM.
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Alberta Bound (09-26-2016)
#18
Senior Member
Short answer, you will probably be able to tow the trailer. The engine and drive train won't have any problems, but you are close to overloading the trucks suspension. Just be careful about how much weight you put in the truck.
#19
Senior Member
smokeywren is one of the most knowledgeable posters on this board in the towing area. He says it like it is and tells you what you NEED to hear, not what you WANT to hear. You asked for opinions and you got them.
The bottom line is that you appear to be buying the truck no matter what anyone says so you are looking for someone to agree with you.
Sorry to be blunt, but that is it what it is.
The math is al here. Your truck has a below average payload because of the way it is kitted out. To haul that kind of weight you should be into a HD payload build.
If you pack light (and I mean light, no firewood, no extra gear, no nothing) you will likely get within ratings. You won't though. You will add gear, you will add 'stuff'. You will be over your payload; period. Will the truck burst into flames and spoil all your milk? Nope. Will it wear prematurely? Yup.
On the plus side when you trade up in a few years you will have learned a valuable lesson....
I know I am being harsh, but the math doesn't lie.
All the best.
The bottom line is that you appear to be buying the truck no matter what anyone says so you are looking for someone to agree with you.
Sorry to be blunt, but that is it what it is.
The math is al here. Your truck has a below average payload because of the way it is kitted out. To haul that kind of weight you should be into a HD payload build.
If you pack light (and I mean light, no firewood, no extra gear, no nothing) you will likely get within ratings. You won't though. You will add gear, you will add 'stuff'. You will be over your payload; period. Will the truck burst into flames and spoil all your milk? Nope. Will it wear prematurely? Yup.
On the plus side when you trade up in a few years you will have learned a valuable lesson....
I know I am being harsh, but the math doesn't lie.
All the best.
#20
smokeywren is one of the most knowledgeable posters on this board in the towing area. He says it like it is and tells you what you NEED to hear, not what you WANT to hear. You asked for opinions and you got them.
The bottom line is that you appear to be buying the truck no matter what anyone says so you are looking for someone to agree with you.
Sorry to be blunt, but that is it what it is.
The math is al here. Your truck has a below average payload because of the way it is kitted out. To haul that kind of weight you should be into a HD payload build.
If you pack light (and I mean light, no firewood, no extra gear, no nothing) you will likely get within ratings. You won't though. You will add gear, you will add 'stuff'. You will be over your payload; period. Will the truck burst into flames and spoil all your milk? Nope. Will it wear prematurely? Yup.
On the plus side when you trade up in a few years you will have learned a valuable lesson....
I know I am being harsh, but the math doesn't lie.
All the best.
The bottom line is that you appear to be buying the truck no matter what anyone says so you are looking for someone to agree with you.
Sorry to be blunt, but that is it what it is.
The math is al here. Your truck has a below average payload because of the way it is kitted out. To haul that kind of weight you should be into a HD payload build.
If you pack light (and I mean light, no firewood, no extra gear, no nothing) you will likely get within ratings. You won't though. You will add gear, you will add 'stuff'. You will be over your payload; period. Will the truck burst into flames and spoil all your milk? Nope. Will it wear prematurely? Yup.
On the plus side when you trade up in a few years you will have learned a valuable lesson....
I know I am being harsh, but the math doesn't lie.
All the best.
I'm totally on board with this config not working... From what I've read the HD package and max tow add a leaf spring and LT tires
If I put a leaf spring in and lt tires do you think of be safe? I tried to get the HD package and there are none in all of Canada. And apparently you can't factory order one at this point. I'm trying to take advantage of employee pricing which ends end of September. Thoughts are really appreciated