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I guess I should have said this is with the camper jacked as far as it will go and with a block of wood under it. The pro series does include a piece of pipe for leverage. I'm not the weakest person in the world either. I have measured both Saddles from the center where the ball hooks to and they are exactly the same length
I have a similar problem, which side is hard to cinch up depends upon the angle/tilt the truck is at when hitching up.
But my basic problem is that the trailer's tongue weight is too much for the WDH. It's a 1000# TW rated hitch, but my TW is more than that. So I've got the hitch head angled down with as many washers as is possible, so the bars angle way down. All to get the weight transfer I need.
To get these bars hitched up, I often have to raise the truck+trailer all the way it will go, putting a lot of strain on the electric hitch jack. And even then it can be a lot of grunt to get the chains in place.
I'm ordering a heavier rated Equal-I-Zer soon and going all the way to a 1400# rated hitch so the head+bars will tilt down as little as possible. You may be able to fix your old hitch by just getting heavier bars. But that's not possible with mine. And besides, I'm getting tired of putting on/off the friction bar whenever I back up into a site.
The Equal-i-zer should give better sway control as well, but that's not a major problem with the high tongue weight of my trailer. You might consider weighing your rig to figure out just what your tongue weight is. Dry tongue weights are pretty useless.
Out of the inexpensive weight distribution/sway control systems, Reese Strait-Line system is the best but can be hard to install and it's performance relies on good installation and setup.
My Strait-Line systsem:
The Second best would be the Equalizer brand but 'can' lead to dog tracking (in slick conditions, rain, ice, snow) due to it's head adjustable friction and it's spring bar sliding friction.
01-19-2015, 08:17 AM
