Benefit if any Towing 33ft. TT, having HD payload package on 2012 F 150 eco
09-22-2012, 08:31 AM
#31
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You will wonder why you waited so long in getting that WDH. I just finished driving 5,000 plus miles from Oklahoma to California to Idaho back to OK. and PU did good. Did overheat twice on a steep grade outside of needles CA. and also mountains West of Denver. where it said something like "overheating will limit power." an it did.... I guess I was pushing it a bit too hard up the mountains.
Was also carrying my 4 wheel ATB in PU bed so I was just a tad low in back end too causing some people to flash their brights. Would think W/O the ATB (I have the heavy payload package )would ride more level. But if I didn't have the WDH it would of been the jurney from hell!
Was also carrying my 4 wheel ATB in PU bed so I was just a tad low in back end too causing some people to flash their brights. Would think W/O the ATB (I have the heavy payload package )would ride more level. But if I didn't have the WDH it would of been the jurney from hell!
09-22-2012, 08:40 AM
#32
Senior Member
I have some info on my eco HD here:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2012-f...ded-up-173104/
I chose the eco for the empty fuel economy and torque without the high revs. The ride is stiffer than a base F150 but still better than a SD. I think most of that is from the E tires and higher pressure. At 40 psi, it rides great but you can't air them down because the TPMS lights up below 50!
With the 157" wb, E tires, stiffer shocks, it is very stable with my 26' tt. Wind still requires moving the wheel a little but I can't believe you wouldn't see that with a SD also. It is not twitchy like my previous GMC 1/2 ton.
**sorry, didn't read the entire thread before posting. Good choice on the truck!**
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2012-f...ded-up-173104/
I chose the eco for the empty fuel economy and torque without the high revs. The ride is stiffer than a base F150 but still better than a SD. I think most of that is from the E tires and higher pressure. At 40 psi, it rides great but you can't air them down because the TPMS lights up below 50!
With the 157" wb, E tires, stiffer shocks, it is very stable with my 26' tt. Wind still requires moving the wheel a little but I can't believe you wouldn't see that with a SD also. It is not twitchy like my previous GMC 1/2 ton.
**sorry, didn't read the entire thread before posting. Good choice on the truck!**
Last edited by Buck50HD; 09-22-2012 at 09:40 AM.
09-22-2012, 11:40 AM
#33
Well, it's been a few months now and about 10K Km of trailering. I've also had the wonderful pleasure to tow at night a few times. So after noticing that my lights seemed a little dimmer than normal one evening I decided to actually do some measuring to better understand the trucks stance. Sure enough the rear was sitting a little lower than the front. I'm now arranging for a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and will also likely end up installing an air bag kit for the rear to stiffen it up a little while under trailer load. Other than that the truck pulls well and handles the trailer weight and length reasonably well. I'm sure the WDH will improve handling and drive-ability as well.
What you will need to do is balance the trailer weight, and that won't be easy with that enclosed trailer, as moving the car inside by even a foot will have a significant impact on the tongue weight, and you'll want it to be the same every time, as otherwise you'll have a wrongly setup WDH or will constantly have to re-adjust.
In your case, I would recommend getting a Sherline tongue weight scale, and then take some time to play around with the weight in the trailer. I would aim for a tongue weight of right around 11 or 12% of your trailers (loaded as towing) weight. Once you achieved that, I would permanently mark inside the trailer where the car (and any other heavy loads) need to be placed. Then, with a 11-12% TW, adjust the WDH to the correct setting.
If you do that, you'll improve your towing experience drastically, believe me. Again, I doubt you need air bags. If you do need them with your HD payload package and WD, that would indicate one of two things IMO: you are either overloaded, or not set up correctly.
Let us know if you have any questions and good luck with the setup!
09-22-2012, 06:19 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Royce
I plan on buying the EB because it can tow 11,300 lbs as compared to a 5.0 than only can tow 9,500. You guys got me thinking, thanks for that. Cause when I spend the big bucks I don't want to look back and say "woulda, coulda shoulda".
I have a Crossroads zinger 33QB Travel Trailer 8010lbs loaded 950 tongue weight I have anti sway bar and load leveler bars on trailer tongue ....I have been deciding on buying the Ecoboost with Max Trailer towing and Heavy Duty payload package. That will bring it to 11,300 max towing..The HD payload package will give me xtra 600 lbs loaded weight(from 7550lbs. to 8200lbs. payload) along with beefier rear end shocks and springs (so hopefully may not need airbags).
Last week I tried my friends 2011 Eco boost w/o the HD package. It did have towing but didn't think it had the Max Towing because it didn't have telescoping chrome trailer mirrors or the Trailer brake controller. Even so I hooked on to my trailer and pulled for about 20 miles around in 25 to 30 mph. crosswinds. The power to pull seemed fine The front didn't raise up or feel too light, as compared to the 2006 F-150 Triton 5.4 of my sons I tried earlier. I feel with the HD springs and Max tow packages should address any concerns.
The specs compairing both:
F250 with 6.2 gas engine 385 HP. 405 torque F150 ecoboost 365hp. 420torque
F250 wheelbase crewcab 156.2' F150 wB supercrew 156.5"
F250 GVWR (max payload W/O trailer) 10,000lbs. F150 (w/HDpackage) 8200lbs.
F250 GVMR (inc. towing) 19,000lbs. F150 (w/max tow and HD package) 17,100lbs.
Benefit of F-150 ..better gas mileage disadvantage may cost more with xtra options to make it comparable to F250. Guys I'm still searching and haven't really talked with anyone who has a ecoboost with both Max towing and HDpackage towing a 8010lb. loaded trailer along with stuff in the P/U bed of the f-150 wish I could but haven't yet..
Any input good or bad please let me know.
I have a Crossroads zinger 33QB Travel Trailer 8010lbs loaded 950 tongue weight I have anti sway bar and load leveler bars on trailer tongue ....I have been deciding on buying the Ecoboost with Max Trailer towing and Heavy Duty payload package. That will bring it to 11,300 max towing..The HD payload package will give me xtra 600 lbs loaded weight(from 7550lbs. to 8200lbs. payload) along with beefier rear end shocks and springs (so hopefully may not need airbags).
Last week I tried my friends 2011 Eco boost w/o the HD package. It did have towing but didn't think it had the Max Towing because it didn't have telescoping chrome trailer mirrors or the Trailer brake controller. Even so I hooked on to my trailer and pulled for about 20 miles around in 25 to 30 mph. crosswinds. The power to pull seemed fine The front didn't raise up or feel too light, as compared to the 2006 F-150 Triton 5.4 of my sons I tried earlier. I feel with the HD springs and Max tow packages should address any concerns.
The specs compairing both:
F250 with 6.2 gas engine 385 HP. 405 torque F150 ecoboost 365hp. 420torque
F250 wheelbase crewcab 156.2' F150 wB supercrew 156.5"
F250 GVWR (max payload W/O trailer) 10,000lbs. F150 (w/HDpackage) 8200lbs.
F250 GVMR (inc. towing) 19,000lbs. F150 (w/max tow and HD package) 17,100lbs.
Benefit of F-150 ..better gas mileage disadvantage may cost more with xtra options to make it comparable to F250. Guys I'm still searching and haven't really talked with anyone who has a ecoboost with both Max towing and HDpackage towing a 8010lb. loaded trailer along with stuff in the P/U bed of the f-150 wish I could but haven't yet..
Any input good or bad please let me know.
09-22-2012, 10:22 PM
#35
I would try the WDH only first, you should not need air bags. The HD payload F-150 sits about level at the full GVWR.
What you will need to do is balance the trailer weight, and that won't be easy with that enclosed trailer, as moving the car inside by even a foot will have a significant impact on the tongue weight, and you'll want it to be the same every time, as otherwise you'll have a wrongly setup WDH or will constantly have to re-adjust.
In your case, I would recommend getting a Sherline tongue weight scale, and then take some time to play around with the weight in the trailer. I would aim for a tongue weight of right around 11 or 12% of your trailers (loaded as towing) weight. Once you achieved that, I would permanently mark inside the trailer where the car (and any other heavy loads) need to be placed. Then, with a 11-12% TW, adjust the WDH to the correct setting.
If you do that, you'll improve your towing experience drastically, believe me. Again, I doubt you need air bags. If you do need them with your HD payload package and WD, that would indicate one of two things IMO: you are either overloaded, or not set up correctly.
Let us know if you have any questions and good luck with the setup!
What you will need to do is balance the trailer weight, and that won't be easy with that enclosed trailer, as moving the car inside by even a foot will have a significant impact on the tongue weight, and you'll want it to be the same every time, as otherwise you'll have a wrongly setup WDH or will constantly have to re-adjust.
In your case, I would recommend getting a Sherline tongue weight scale, and then take some time to play around with the weight in the trailer. I would aim for a tongue weight of right around 11 or 12% of your trailers (loaded as towing) weight. Once you achieved that, I would permanently mark inside the trailer where the car (and any other heavy loads) need to be placed. Then, with a 11-12% TW, adjust the WDH to the correct setting.
If you do that, you'll improve your towing experience drastically, believe me. Again, I doubt you need air bags. If you do need them with your HD payload package and WD, that would indicate one of two things IMO: you are either overloaded, or not set up correctly.
Let us know if you have any questions and good luck with the setup!
After a few harrowing white knuckle towing sessions, I started playing with the placement of the race car and load in the trailer. It took a few tries but I have it set well for now (wheel positions marked on floor) and will reset once I have the WDH. Thanks for the tip on the scale and % TW.
09-23-2012, 09:52 AM
#36
Actually, no need to readjust load placement. If you are towing with very little away now, why move loads after WDH?
Sounds like your tongue weight is good. Now get the WDH and hook up and you'll be good to go after you get the WDH adjusted correctly.
Sounds like your tongue weight is good. Now get the WDH and hook up and you'll be good to go after you get the WDH adjusted correctly.
09-23-2012, 11:06 AM
#37
If not with a tongue weight scale, a truck scale will tell jgalaxy the numbers also.
Last edited by flixden; 09-23-2012 at 11:10 AM.
09-26-2012, 11:52 AM
#39
Originally Posted by flixden
I would still check. You'll have very little sway also with a very heavy tongue - a tongue that puts too much stress on the receiver and is overloading the hitch, rear axle and trucks GVWR overall. Especially since this is a heavy trailer. His trailer is around 8K lbs, and if he has 15% or more of tongue weight, he will have pretty much eliminated the sway, but could run into different problems with 12K lbs+ of tongue weight.
If not with a tongue weight scale, a truck scale will tell jgalaxy the numbers also.