danelizer

Hey Eric. You need to rattle-can your rear end too. Thanks for the picture.

ilmo

Thanks for the info. Looks good. Did you complete one side at a time? Did they help your truck? I also have the SuperCrew with 6.5' bed and considering these.

Thanks

schrod

Eric---Dumb-dumb-dumb!!! You only lifted the right side and put it on. The instructions distinctly tell you to jack under the pumpkin so as to keep the axle level so both sides will be sagging equally so that you tighten the springs the same amount. There is no way that you will get both sides tensioned equally by jacking one side and then the other. Don't you know why they include instructions?? LMAO You will not be happy and if you don't redo it, you will **** and moan that the stuff was crap and return it for all the wrong reasons. Doing sh*t like this is what gives bad impressions to others when it is the installer that is sh*t and not the product.

Why else would the jack be under the right-hand side?

EricTheOracle

You're outthinking yourself.

I used the other photo because this photo doesn't show the RAS off as well.

EricTheOracle

I did both sides at the same time.

It helps my truck but it does increase rear ride height a bit even after setting it up lighter than the directions said (I used a feeler gage). The set up is a bit arbitrary since increasing suspension sag also increases tension on the spring and the measurement is taken by measuring the gap between the coils. The take-away is that it is more important to have the tension on both sides be the same rather than hitting the money on 1 or 2mm of tension as the direction state. That said, there must be some tension on the spring or the system will not work.

With axel wrap the axel and differential try to wind themselves in the opposit direction the wheels are trying to spin. With the axel bolted under the leaf spring stack, it effectively acts like a small lever against the leaf springs and forces the leaf spring forward of the axel upward and the leaf spring to the rear of the axel downward.



In so far as axel wrap is concerned, Roadmaster's Active Suspension (RAS) hooks on just under the front of the U-bolts that fix the axel to the leaf springs and put it under spring tension. When the axel tries to rotate under torque, the RAS holds it in place against its own spring.

It is possible to still wrap the axel if the RAS spring tension is overcome but I don't think that is really a likely issue we'll experience.

BTW, the RAS really does seem to improve the ride quality also and if you don't mind dialing in some extra ride height, Roadmaster claims it increases payload up to as much at 40% or so.

My take-away: I'd buy them again.

ilmo

EricTheOracle said:

It would seem to me that if you measured with a feeler gauge, then you are still measuring gap between the coils of the RAS and not tension. How did you measure the tension to get it equal on both sides?

Did you get the RAS with the part #3611-Y?
I have been researching, and this is what I am coming up with for my truck.
F150 4X4 PICKUP W/4 DOORS20113611-Y MK3-XXY

Thanks

schrod

Sorry for calling you dumb! Yes, I was outthinking myself by jumping to a conclusion from the jack location in the picture. Nice work. Yours is the same Candy Red Metallic as I have. Again, sorry and nice job.

EricTheOracle

With the 157" WB I used MK3 XXF. The 157" WB trucks have longer leaf springs than the shorter trucks.

Spring wise the spring works under tension like a screen door spring. The more preload, the more the coils open up. Roadmaster suggests either 1mm or 2mm gap between the coils. Using a feeler gauge I set my truck up with less.

RRF150

Tires need to be off and the axle hanging alone. The tension is adjusted by spreading the RAS spring to a determined amount. But the key is to have the axle hanging lose without the tire/wheels on. It will raise the rear 1".

Dale0

Eric, what about the ride quality is better? Smoother?

Also how much did it raise your truck?

Did it eliminate the shudder in your truck?

I just ordered mine.