BarmanBean

iTrader: (1)

Others have said it, but power isn't likely to be your issue so the rear end at 3.55 or 3.73 is likely OK. You will most likely hit your payload limit well before your tow limit.

If the 3.73 was a $1k option, I would lean towards a truck that cost a $1k less and a REALLY nice hitch setup over the 3.73 for the $1k premium. Just my 2 cents from reading about quite a few setups here.

Olotti76

Ok I'm confused. If my payload is 1500lbs what things would make that up so I'd go over that. What constitutes a really nice hitch setup? So,thing like a wdh with anti sway or are there even fancier setups out there.

jp360cj

Yep that 2012 FX4 should have 3.73. If Ford's ETIS site is back up you can verify gear ratio with the VIN. There's also an axle code on the door sticker. L9 is 3.55 E locker. I think L6 is 3.73

Olotti76

There's a pick of the door sticker and it is L6 which is the elocker 3.73. What do ya think of the truck.

mass-hole

It probably wouldnt have an effect on the ultimate towing capability(pulling up a mountain) but in conditions where he is pulling on flat ground or slight hills it could make the difference between downshifting or not downshifting.

Olotti76

Agreed. Where I tow in Michigan it's pretty flat outside of the long gradual hills. My main reason for looking for the 3.73 was as u mention I'd rather not have the truck pumping out 4500rpms while going up a hill and I'd never come close to the max tow of 9300#'s whereas the tt I'm looking at with weight in the trailer would get me close to the 7700#'s with the 3.55.

chimmike

I don't think the difference between 3.55s and 3.73's is as significant as you're thinking.

Rendrag

Right. The fact is, with modern six or ten speed transmissions it is easy find the "Sweet spot" for your combination. It may be 3,000 rpm in fifth or 3,500 rpm in fourth. No need to change rear axle ratios.

BarmanBean

iTrader: (1)

The obvious ones to start are you, the driver, and the tongue weight of the trailer. If you are looking at a 7700# trailer with an average tongue weight of 13%, and assuming you weight 200#, and your WDH weights 100#, your remaining payload would be as follows:

1500 - 7700*0.13 - 200 - 100 = 199#

It gets eaten up surprisingly fast. So now you have 199# of remaining payload. Have a wife? Or an aftermarket bedliner or floormats? Subtract those also. Now subtract anything else in the truck--kids, car seats, dog, coolers, luggage, etc. Tonneau cover? You get the gist.

Nicer hitch setups start with equalizer and blue ox setups. There are others out there that I'm sure will be recommended. Premium hitches would be the propride / hensley hitches. They are insanely expensive, but I guess if you are going to make a lifetime out of towing larger trailers you could eventually justify it.

Rendrag

One can make estimates based on the weight of floormats and kids, but spending ten bucks at the scales will give you the actual weight of your tow vehicle. Sadly, it will be higher than you think. Subtract that from your pickup's GVWR to arrive at the manufacturer's payload rating. Thankfully, Ford gave us a few hundred much needed pounds when they switched to Aluminum.