Any 4 season trailer owners here
08-14-2017, 02:57 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Any 4 season trailer owners here
I am in the process of well changing my life. I will be moving to TN in a few months, and I plan on living in a TT for about 6 months. I am pretty sure I want at least a 3.5 or 4 season RV. I have a 2016 Plat with max tow of 11,800. I am looking at around a GVW 10,000 LBs TT. It will be just for me for at least six months then the wife will move in after we sell our house in OH.
Any forums to look at for more info? Any real world folks doing this? What are you using. I work from home one or two weeks a month and travel at least two weeks some time three weeks at a time, s it will sit empty.
If this is not a good spot for this post please remove.
Thanks
Mike
Any forums to look at for more info? Any real world folks doing this? What are you using. I work from home one or two weeks a month and travel at least two weeks some time three weeks at a time, s it will sit empty.
If this is not a good spot for this post please remove.
Thanks
Mike
Last edited by Mlarv; 08-14-2017 at 04:14 PM.
08-14-2017, 03:51 PM
#2
I would definitely get a 4 season if you will be in Tenn during the winter, especially over near Knoxville. As far as a 10k GVWR, I don't think you will be happy moving it. You will very likely be very over loaded. I know you will like a bigger trailer to full time but that's the truth. I'll let some others chime in.
08-14-2017, 04:14 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I would definitely get a 4 season if you will be in Tenn during the winter, especially over near Knoxville. As far as a 10k GVWR, I don't think you will be happy moving it. You will very likely be very over loaded. I know you will like a bigger trailer to full time but that's the truth. I'll let some others chime in.
Thanks I am not going to move it every month. It will be parked in a mobile home RV park for most of that time.
Thanks
08-14-2017, 06:50 PM
#4
Grumpy Old Man
Hi, MLarv, and welcome to our campfire.
Ignore the tow rating unless you want to be severely overloaded. Your plan for towing 10k trailer will probably be too much trailer weight for your F-150. So you won't be able to get close to 11,800 without overloading your F-150.
If that GVWR is for the trailer, then you'll probably be severely overloaded over the payload capacity of your fancy F-150.
When loaded to 10k gross trailer weight, your hitch weight will be about 1,400 pounds (1,300 tongue weight plus about 100 pounds for a good WD hitch).
Look at the payload capacity of your F-150. It's on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door frame. Subtract 1,400 pounds from that payload capacity and the remainder is available for people and other weight in the pickup.
There are lots of full-timers out there. But the smart ones have a heavy duty enough tow vehicle that they're not overloaded when changing RV parks.
For a TT that grosses 10k, a full-timer needs at least an F-150 that has the optional heavy duty payload package (HDPP). But HDPP was not available on any 2016 F-150 with fancier trim than the base Lariat trim package 500A. So we know you don't have HDPP. Better is an F-250 so you don't have to worry about overloading your tow vehicle if you keep the trailer weight down to about the 12k range.
Understand that full-timers haul everything they own with them when they tow the trailer to change locations, so with careful planning you'll probably be loaded right up against the GVWR of both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Overloading is common for those that aren't **** about weight management. And an overloaded tow vehicle can cause you all sorts of problems.
Your wonderful 3.5L EcoBoost drivetrain with 3.55 axle can easily PULL a 10K trailer, but the soft suspension on that luxury liner cannot handle the 1,400 pounds of hitch weight when added to the weight of people and other weight you'll haul in the tow vehicle when moving.
So what you are planning is probably do-able without overloading your F-150, but it will require careful planning so you haul minimum weight in the F-150 when towing.
Ignore the tow rating unless you want to be severely overloaded. Your plan for towing 10k trailer will probably be too much trailer weight for your F-150. So you won't be able to get close to 11,800 without overloading your F-150.
I am looking at around a GVW 10,000 LBs TT.
If that GVWR is for the trailer, then you'll probably be severely overloaded over the payload capacity of your fancy F-150.
When loaded to 10k gross trailer weight, your hitch weight will be about 1,400 pounds (1,300 tongue weight plus about 100 pounds for a good WD hitch).
Look at the payload capacity of your F-150. It's on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door frame. Subtract 1,400 pounds from that payload capacity and the remainder is available for people and other weight in the pickup.
Any real world folks doing this?
There are lots of full-timers out there. But the smart ones have a heavy duty enough tow vehicle that they're not overloaded when changing RV parks.
What are you using.
For a TT that grosses 10k, a full-timer needs at least an F-150 that has the optional heavy duty payload package (HDPP). But HDPP was not available on any 2016 F-150 with fancier trim than the base Lariat trim package 500A. So we know you don't have HDPP. Better is an F-250 so you don't have to worry about overloading your tow vehicle if you keep the trailer weight down to about the 12k range.
Understand that full-timers haul everything they own with them when they tow the trailer to change locations, so with careful planning you'll probably be loaded right up against the GVWR of both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Overloading is common for those that aren't **** about weight management. And an overloaded tow vehicle can cause you all sorts of problems.
Your wonderful 3.5L EcoBoost drivetrain with 3.55 axle can easily PULL a 10K trailer, but the soft suspension on that luxury liner cannot handle the 1,400 pounds of hitch weight when added to the weight of people and other weight you'll haul in the tow vehicle when moving.
So what you are planning is probably do-able without overloading your F-150, but it will require careful planning so you haul minimum weight in the F-150 when towing.
08-14-2017, 07:19 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hi, MLarv, and welcome to our campfire.
Ignore the tow rating unless you want to be severely overloaded. Your plan for towing 10k trailer will probably be too much trailer weight for your F-150. So you won't be able to get close to 11,800 without overloading your F-150.
If that GVWR is for the trailer, then you'll probably be severely overloaded over the payload capacity of your fancy F-150.
When loaded to 10k gross trailer weight, your hitch weight will be about 1,400 pounds (1,300 tongue weight plus about 100 pounds for a good WD hitch).
Look at the payload capacity of your F-150. It's on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door frame. Subtract 1,400 pounds from that payload capacity and the remainder is available for people and other weight in the pickup.
There are lots of full-timers out there. But the smart ones have a heavy duty enough tow vehicle that they're not overloaded when changing RV parks.
For a TT that grosses 10k, a full-timer needs at least an F-150 that has the optional heavy duty payload package (HDPP). But HDPP was not available on any 2016 F-150 with fancier trim than the base Lariat trim package 500A. So we know you don't have HDPP. Better is an F-250 so you don't have to worry about overloading your tow vehicle if you keep the trailer weight down to about the 12k range.
Understand that full-timers haul everything they own with them when they tow the trailer to change locations, so with careful planning you'll probably be loaded right up against the GVWR of both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Overloading is common for those that aren't **** about weight management. And an overloaded tow vehicle can cause you all sorts of problems.
Your wonderful 3.5L EcoBoost drivetrain with 3.55 axle can easily PULL a 10K trailer, but the soft suspension on that luxury liner cannot handle the 1,400 pounds of hitch weight when added to the weight of people and other weight you'll haul in the tow vehicle when moving.
So what you are planning is probably do-able without overloading your F-150, but it will require careful planning so you haul minimum weight in the F-150 when towing.
Ignore the tow rating unless you want to be severely overloaded. Your plan for towing 10k trailer will probably be too much trailer weight for your F-150. So you won't be able to get close to 11,800 without overloading your F-150.
If that GVWR is for the trailer, then you'll probably be severely overloaded over the payload capacity of your fancy F-150.
When loaded to 10k gross trailer weight, your hitch weight will be about 1,400 pounds (1,300 tongue weight plus about 100 pounds for a good WD hitch).
Look at the payload capacity of your F-150. It's on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door frame. Subtract 1,400 pounds from that payload capacity and the remainder is available for people and other weight in the pickup.
There are lots of full-timers out there. But the smart ones have a heavy duty enough tow vehicle that they're not overloaded when changing RV parks.
For a TT that grosses 10k, a full-timer needs at least an F-150 that has the optional heavy duty payload package (HDPP). But HDPP was not available on any 2016 F-150 with fancier trim than the base Lariat trim package 500A. So we know you don't have HDPP. Better is an F-250 so you don't have to worry about overloading your tow vehicle if you keep the trailer weight down to about the 12k range.
Understand that full-timers haul everything they own with them when they tow the trailer to change locations, so with careful planning you'll probably be loaded right up against the GVWR of both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Overloading is common for those that aren't **** about weight management. And an overloaded tow vehicle can cause you all sorts of problems.
Your wonderful 3.5L EcoBoost drivetrain with 3.55 axle can easily PULL a 10K trailer, but the soft suspension on that luxury liner cannot handle the 1,400 pounds of hitch weight when added to the weight of people and other weight you'll haul in the tow vehicle when moving.
So what you are planning is probably do-able without overloading your F-150, but it will require careful planning so you haul minimum weight in the F-150 when towing.
I was talking the trailer weight of no more then 10K and using a WDH.
I get the terms messed up with out a sheet of paper in front of me with the correct TLA'S and FLA's three and four letter acronyms. So I was talking total trailer weight of no more the 10K
I will be by myself most of the time and the wife has her rig to drive so even when moving it I will be by myself. Most of the time it will not have any water in the tanks. The places I am looking at all have full hook ups. If and when I move it, I will empty the black water tank before hitting the road.
I understand the overloading of the tow vehicle, and why it is a bad idea.
I am new to the TT world, and figured before I just went with what the salesman tells me, I would stop by here and see what is real and what is BS before I buy something to heavy.
I was told by two of the three salesman I should get a 5th wheel, I looked at it and said that front face is over 5sq meters of wind resistance. So I can not tow it by the books.
I did look at the ratings of the truck before I went looking, now I am looking for real life advice before I spend any money on something.
I am old and like my cushy suspension, if I need to beef it up because I am towing more then I figured I will, but if Ford states it can tow and stop 11,800 safely with trailer brakes and WDH, and I am stopping at 10K I am thinking I have a small safety buffer.
I know I have to add in the weight of the people and equipment in the truck for total weight, I don't think I weigh 2K but I might be wrong
Thanks Again for the information on the brake controller thread and now this one. If any trailer will be overloaded it would be the enclosed car trailer if I decide to move my self. That is why I am looking at using Pods instead.
Last edited by Mlarv; 08-14-2017 at 07:27 PM.
08-14-2017, 09:51 PM
#6
Check out RV.net, its dedicated to RV life, with plenty of full timers on it. Heck I think I even saw Smokey do some posting there.
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Mlarv (08-14-2017)
08-14-2017, 10:42 PM
#7
Senior Member
We're just recreational campers but we just bought a Forest River TT and I see on their forums a section for long term, work camping, etc. I haven't really visited this sub forum but the other sub-forums are pretty good
http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f245/
http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f245/
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Mlarv (08-14-2017)
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08-15-2017, 12:49 AM
#8
Senior Member
I was talking the trailer weight of no more then 10K and using a WDH.
I get the terms messed up with out a sheet of paper in front of me with the correct TLA'S and FLA's three and four letter acronyms. So I was talking total trailer weight of no more the 10K
I will be by myself most of the time and the wife has her rig to drive so even when moving it I will be by myself. Most of the time it will not have any water in the tanks. The places I am looking at all have full hook ups. If and when I move it, I will empty the black water tank before hitting the road.
I understand the overloading of the tow vehicle, and why it is a bad idea.
I am new to the TT world, and figured before I just went with what the salesman tells me, I would stop by here and see what is real and what is BS before I buy something to heavy.
I was told by two of the three salesman I should get a 5th wheel, I looked at it and said that front face is over 5sq meters of wind resistance. So I can not tow it by the books.
I did look at the ratings of the truck before I went looking, now I am looking for real life advice before I spend any money on something.
I am old and like my cushy suspension, if I need to beef it up because I am towing more then I figured I will, but if Ford states it can tow and stop 11,800 safely with trailer brakes and WDH, and I am stopping at 10K I am thinking I have a small safety buffer.
I know I have to add in the weight of the people and equipment in the truck for total weight, I don't think I weigh 2K but I might be wrong
Thanks Again for the information on the brake controller thread and now this one. If any trailer will be overloaded it would be the enclosed car trailer if I decide to move my self. That is why I am looking at using Pods instead.
I get the terms messed up with out a sheet of paper in front of me with the correct TLA'S and FLA's three and four letter acronyms. So I was talking total trailer weight of no more the 10K
I will be by myself most of the time and the wife has her rig to drive so even when moving it I will be by myself. Most of the time it will not have any water in the tanks. The places I am looking at all have full hook ups. If and when I move it, I will empty the black water tank before hitting the road.
I understand the overloading of the tow vehicle, and why it is a bad idea.
I am new to the TT world, and figured before I just went with what the salesman tells me, I would stop by here and see what is real and what is BS before I buy something to heavy.
I was told by two of the three salesman I should get a 5th wheel, I looked at it and said that front face is over 5sq meters of wind resistance. So I can not tow it by the books.
I did look at the ratings of the truck before I went looking, now I am looking for real life advice before I spend any money on something.
I am old and like my cushy suspension, if I need to beef it up because I am towing more then I figured I will, but if Ford states it can tow and stop 11,800 safely with trailer brakes and WDH, and I am stopping at 10K I am thinking I have a small safety buffer.
I know I have to add in the weight of the people and equipment in the truck for total weight, I don't think I weigh 2K but I might be wrong
Thanks Again for the information on the brake controller thread and now this one. If any trailer will be overloaded it would be the enclosed car trailer if I decide to move my self. That is why I am looking at using Pods instead.
I am allowed a GCVWR of 13500 lbs. Right now I'm almost a ton under and I'm maxed out. I'm supposed to be able to pull a 7600 lb trailer according to Ford...but I'm maxed out with a Trailer GVW of just over 5000 lbs. I will have my Sumo Springs in tomorrow to help me .....just help me handle everything. After last week's trip...I don't think I need them but I love gadgets, especially ones that work.
Just pay attention especially to what smokeywren says. He put ME on the straight and narrow...not without adding a few more grey hairs on him..............
Last edited by Simnut; 08-15-2017 at 12:53 AM.
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Mlarv (08-15-2017)
08-15-2017, 02:59 AM
#9
Senior Member
Order a 2018 EcoBoost with the Max Tow Package! It is rated to tow up to 13,200 lbs! They use a heavier gauge steel in the frame too just for the Max Tow Package! Also Ford re-engineered the steering system to help you handle all the extra heavy weight so you will be more stable going down the freeway. The payload zooms up above 3000lbs closer to 4,000 lbs! So that helps not max out your tongue loads...there are more additions , more oil coolers etc... that will make it encroach upon Superduty territory! Well worth waiting for IMO....
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Mlarv (08-15-2017)