Andersen WDH
#11
Senior Member
Put it tight with the supplied socket using a 3/8" drive ratchet.
I put it as tight as it will go without torquing on it.
Make sure you have the trailer and back of truck picked up while you do this, so that letting it back down transfers the weight.
Also, when unhooking, I will lift the truck and trailer both again, loosen nuts, then set back down.
I put it as tight as it will go without torquing on it.
Make sure you have the trailer and back of truck picked up while you do this, so that letting it back down transfers the weight.
Also, when unhooking, I will lift the truck and trailer both again, loosen nuts, then set back down.
Last edited by doctorschlachter; 08-18-2017 at 02:42 PM.
#12
Senior Member
I'll try that next time. It will be interesting to see how close it comes to my adjustment (# threads).
#13
Senior Member
#14
MY method
1. I lower my trailer onto the ball and lock it in, then I raise trailer about an inch, it also raises back of my truck.
2. I attach chains, for my set up its 7 threads showing each side. chains may be slack on 1 or both sides
3. when I completely lower the trailer onto the ball the chains tighten and my setup is complete. the weight of my trailer is transfered from trailer to truck
4. it is immpossible to unlock the trailer from the ball unless you remove the chains.
1. I lower my trailer onto the ball and lock it in, then I raise trailer about an inch, it also raises back of my truck.
2. I attach chains, for my set up its 7 threads showing each side. chains may be slack on 1 or both sides
3. when I completely lower the trailer onto the ball the chains tighten and my setup is complete. the weight of my trailer is transfered from trailer to truck
4. it is immpossible to unlock the trailer from the ball unless you remove the chains.
#15
Another positive report. Like others have listed; clean, light, quiet, etc.
My only reservation would be for those with a marginal tow vehicle who need maximum rear suspension help. Example would be a tow vehicle with 700 pounds of available payload and 1,000 pounds of tongue weight. With those numbers reversed, it works great for me.
My only reservation would be for those with a marginal tow vehicle who need maximum rear suspension help. Example would be a tow vehicle with 700 pounds of available payload and 1,000 pounds of tongue weight. With those numbers reversed, it works great for me.
#16
Senior Member
The Andersen is light. Thats about it. Its weak on weight distribution and friction (anti-sway). Personally not impressed.
#17
I forgot to mention that the Andersen is silent and really helps eliminating "porpoising". The quiet part is odd at first after hearing creaks, pops, and groans from conventional WD hitches. Most people who have actually used one like them. Some people that have never tried one, might not. The worst report was a fellow with a Tundra that was overloaded on the rear axle and could not transfer enough weight to the front axle to eliminate his problem. Works good with an adequate tow vehicle.
#18
BoostKing Tuning
I've been considering this hitch. Its been a toss up between this one and the Husky Centerline Pro for me. I havent bit the bullet yet as I keep researching. Thanks for the thread.
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2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
#19
Boostking; I would make the decision based on the actual weights and ratings involved. If you are over your payload, forget about the Andersen. If you are well under your payload, the Andersen will restore the fifty percent front axle weight that Ford requires and give a very good towing experience. Do you have the weights?
#20
BoostKing Tuning
Boostking; I would make the decision based on the actual weights and ratings involved. If you are over your payload, forget about the Andersen. If you are well under your payload, the Andersen will restore the fifty percent front axle weight that Ford requires and give a very good towing experience. Do you have the weights?
Obviously in that last situation I was probably over my payload. It was a last minute to add all the beverages to my truck instead of the other vehicle we usually would load (parent forgot). But nonetheless I'd like to be prepared and gain a better towing experience when things are overloaded like this. This year we will be traveling to further competitions (without the beverages). Towing without the WDH hasnt been bad on 2 hour drives, but can get a little scary when heavy weather hits and I encounter bad/unfamiliar roads.
My research started with Reese WDH with sway control, and studying their variations. Its been a decade since I've used a WDH hitch and it wasn't mine so I dont have much experience with them. My budget is around $500 or so. Husky Centerline Pro was recommended on a different thread, I looked at all the Reese products and almost bought one (thankfully I didnt), and I came across the Andersen by accident.
So I'm just lurking, looking to learn a bit and try to figure out the best solution for me. My biggest concerns are foremost, weight distribution and sway, and second I'd like something relatively easy to attach and maintain.
__________________
www.BoostKingTuning.com
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85
2022 F150 Tremor - Current - BoostKing Custom Tuned 440whp on 93. --- 2022 Expedition Stealth H.O. - JB4 Only --- 2018 Mustang Hellion Sleeper - 907 whp on E85