7x12 Enclosed Cargo Trailer Questions
 

I'm looking to purchase an enclosed cargo trailer and have a few questions about towing it with my 2018 F150 (see signature below for truck specs). I'm leaning towards a 7x12 v-nose trailer. This trailer would be used to tow 2 youth sized ATV's (about 500lbs together), 1 youth sized dirtbike (180lbs), and eventually one adult sized ATV (maybe 500lbs) plus extra gas, tools, and riding gear.

Should I go with a single axle or tandem axle trailer? Both have electric brakes. The single axle weighs 1,600lbs and has a payload rating of 1,900lb. The tandem axle weighs 1,850lb and has a payload of 5,150lb. I've heard that a tandem axle will tow better on the highway, but a single axle is more maneuverable.

Let's assume all cargo adds up to around 1,500lb and the trailer at worst case weighs 1,850lb for a total of 3,350lb (we can round up to an even 3,500lb), will my F150 need a weight distribution hitch for this? I know with an open utility trailer it's not as much of a big deal, but I've read that travel trailers and enclosed trailers are much more prone to sway from crosswinds and all that. I don't know that I've ever seen someone using a WDH on an enclosed cargo trailer, but that doesn't mean it's not a good idea.

I have a '12 Polaris Ranger 800HD. I went with a custom built 7x14 V-nose, tandem axle. It's GVWR is 7,000lbs.. Curb weight is 2,020lbs, capacity 4,980lbs. I'm towing about 3,500-3,600lb.. The "Buggy" has a full Pro Steel cab, and a few added acc. It weighs in around 1,500-1,600lbs or so. Most all trailers I looked at in the 7x12, 7x14 range made the rear ramp door too low. So I had a trailer custom built with an additional 1' sidewall height to get it in. I have a Homesteader Challenger. No dist. hitch and it tows nicely. I tow it with an '11 Lariat supercrew with the 6.2. Make sure you get one with more room than you need. That extra space will come in handy. I wish I had went with a 8' wide instead. 7' is kind of narrow for me to get out of the Buggy once I get it backed into the trailer. I have to remove the drivers door before I load it so I can get out of it, lol..

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...e5d120a217.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...c5dfd969ad.jpg
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...cc3385d5b9.jpg

I have a 6x12 two axle that is 6' 6" high. It tows like it ain't there.

I just sold my 6x12' single axle cargo trailer that I've had for 20 years. The GVW was 2999# as anything 3000# or over requires brakes. I bought it initially as a base camp to carry my Roadking and camp gear, while traveling around riding. Over the years and several homes, it turned into storage, was used to move houses and furniture and until recently it was just taking space in my driveway. With three half ton trucks and a large SUV I used to pull it over the years, I can honestly say I hardly knew it was there. Even loaded walls to ceiling with all the furniture from my mountain vacation home there was no strain. I will say backing the single axle can be a chore that I never really got the hang of.

I would prefer single 7000 pound axle over two 3500's.

But for some reason they dont make them unless you ask for one.

I would go with a tandem axle. In my opinion it's smoother to tow at speed. Plus I like the added benefit of 2 tires on each side in case of a blowout.

Keep in mind if you tow on toll roads, they charge by the axle!

My cargo trailer is a CarMate 7x14 tandem axle. I prefer tandem axle because of the increased capability in case I need it.

If properly loaded to a gross trailer weight of less than 3,850 pounds, your tongue weight should be less than 500 pounds. So technically you don't need a WD hitch. But I prefer to use a WD hitch for any tongue weight more than about 300 pounds for towing a load of household goods across the country. That's a gross trailer weight of about 2200 pounds.

Then you haven't met me when I'm helping to move kids or grandkids from Fort Irwin, CA to Austin,TX or from Payette, ID to Kings Bay Naval Sub base, GA.

I think it's a very good idea. But not just any ole WD hitch, but the high end of the affordable price class so you have excellent sway control as well as excellent weight distribution. Including the Equal-I-Zer, Blue Ox SwayPro, and Reese Strait-Line. My choice is the Reese Strait-Line with trunnion bars. For your trailer, I would get the one rated for 300 to 600 pounds TW.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66082.html

Caveat: Some V-nose and U-nose cargo trailers do not have enough frame of the tongue available to install a good WD hitch. So I would first choose the hitch, then choose a trailer with enough of the tongue frame accessable so that hitch can be installed without major surgery to the front of the trailer. My CarMate motorcycle trailer has an almost flat front end, so no problem installing my Strait-Line hitch. But on my granddaughter's 2-horse U-nose trailer she cannot install a Strait-Line hitch.

Carmate cargo trailers now have an optional extended tongue, so you can install a WD hitch even on the models with V-nose. But that extended tongue is an option, so be sure yours has it before you turn over the money. Other brands of cargo trailers may also have an extended tongue option, so make sure before you finalize the order.

Yeah, I know. CarMate trailers are made in PA and distributed only in the Northeast. But I bought mine used from a GI at Fort Hood that had moved from an Army post "back east" to Fort Hood in Texas.
http://carmate-trailers.com/trailers...-singletandem/

This 20 year old trailer I had was a CarMate if you need a testament to their durability. The only thing it ever needed were tires and one single marker light bulb in that 20 years.

Thanks everyone for the information. I'll have to take a look at what's out there and measure the trailer tongue in case I do want to add a WDH in the future. I think I'm leaning towards a tandem axle just for the extra weight carrying capacity and better stability on the highway.

Honestly for now a smaller trailer would be plenty, but I know that eventually I'll want to buy an ATV for myself once I see the kids having fun so I'll probably be towing it half empty for the first year or so.

Carmate now makes 3 different cargo trailers. The Carmate Sportster Cargo is their economy cargo trailer with leaf springs. The SuperDuty is similar to the Sportster but with heavier-duty suspension and GVWR. The Custom Cargo is their "premium" line with Dexter TorFlex axles instead of leaf springs. LED lights including tail lights are optional on the Custom Cargo. Mine is the Custom Cargo with optional LED tail lights and I've been very pleased with it. The TorFlex axles cost more, but I think they're worth it.

There's a work-around for V-nose and other trailers with short tongues.

See https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...e/RP58305.html

These bolt-on hangers allow you to hitch your trunnion bars to a point located under the trailer body.

Just a bit awkward to get at, that's all....

The larger trailer will be marginally more expensive than buying a small one, realizing it's too small and selling it to upgrade later.

Thanks again for all the input! I pulled the trigger last weekend and picked up a 7x12 tandem axle trailer. This weekend I got the trailer set up with my truck (pro trailer backup, trailer brake gain, etc). Then I installed some e-track style mounts for strapping down the two youth ATV's (I don't own an adult size ATV yet) and built a holder for gas cans. I haven't been to a scale yet to weigh the actual trailer weight but the specified weights of the trailer, ATV's, and 12 gallons of gas should be about 2,500lbs. With both ATV's and gas cans in the forward most position my trailer tongue weight started to exceed my 300lb scale, so I adjusted the positioning of the ATV's in their mounts and now I'm at about 230-240lbs of tongue weight. Note: the hitch in the picture was a 3" drop and the trailer was still sitting nose high so I switched over to a 5-1/4" drop and it's closer to level now.

Eventually I'll buy an ATV for myself (around 500lbs) and we'll end up with spare tires, parts, and camping gear in the trailer so I still plan to look into weight distributing hitches.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...330876ced0.jpg

Here are some pictures from getting the ATV e-tracks mounted. So far I'm very happy with this Erickson wheel chock system. It's a little tough getting the straps on the small tires but overall it seems like a very secure way of strapping down an ATV.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...ee805b4b71.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...c19288d637.jpg

Nice!!